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Here's what you get: 1) One Britek PS-300 150WS Professional
Strobe (Show me) |
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ps300k1
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Here's what you get: 1) One Britek PS-300 150WS Professional
Strobe (Show me) |
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Here's
some information about the items comprising
your new studio kit: The
NEW Britek PS-300 Professional Studio Flash
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| Technique: How was I able to make the background that's in the top picture pure white, and the very same background, in the picture above, appear brown? It's easy - when you know how (it's sorta like this: What kind of question is a hard question? Answer: One you don't know the answer to. And what kind of question is an easy question? Answer: That's the one you do know the answer to). Here's how it's done: In the top picture, I lit the background with a backlight strobe (it's own strobe), so it received enough light to expose properly, and consequently it came out pure white. In the picture above, I did not light the background; I just used the tiny little built-in flash on the digital Fuji, which was enough to (barely) light the strobe I was photographing, but too weak to reach or brighten up the backdrop to white; therefore, the background underexposed and looked brownish, even though it was really a pure white canvas! Carried to an extreme, I could even make a white background look black, if I wanted to. How? By lighting the subject so brightly that the (unlit) background would underexpose (i.e., not receive enough light) so badly it would come out black. It's all in the LIGHT folks; it's all in the light! Remember, a photographer is a LIGHT writer. | |||
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 Technique: BTW, I purposely made the photograph above to
show you an example of a photographic situation that often plagues
some of our amateur images. I used this technique to distort
the relative size of the strobe body and the reflector. Look
at the picture at the top of this auction description or the
small one to the left; then look at the image above. The reflector
in the image above appears larger than it really is, in relation
to the body of the strobe (compare the relative sizes of the
strobe and silver reflector). Why does this happen? It's called
"perspective distortion" and I'll spare you the physics
of the explanation, but whenever one part of an object is closer
to the camera's lens than the other part of an object, the perspective
is distorted (it's due to the rendering of a 3 dimensional object
into a 2 dimensional image). For fun, try this: come in really
close to someone's face with your camera, and with the person's
nose closest to your lens, take a picture. When the print comes
back, you'll see the nose looks huge (compared to the rest of
the face). Of course, you can do the same with almost any object
you photograph. The lesson? Beware of holding the camera too
close to your subject (unless you want perspective distortion
for some reason, like this example, or for fun). This most often
happens when we're using wide angle lenses (since we can fit
more into the frame, we sometimes bring the camera too close
to our subjects), but it happens with all lenses. For portraiture,
use somewhere between an 85 to 135mm lens (the short telephoto
range makes most faces look better). The opposite of the perspective
distortion effect is a compression of space caused with long
telephoto lenses. If a subject really does have a large nose,
shoot your victim with a longer telephoto lens; it will compress
space, and make the nose look smaller. Just a couple more tricks
up the professional photographer's sleeve. Read on, and learn
more.... |
 As we can see from this top view (with the reflector removed), The PS-300 allows us to control the power level output (full or half power), and lets us choose whether or not we want to turn on the modeling light. |
| This is a Fabulous deal, but let's not lose sight of the reality. If you're rich, have a sugar-mommy or daddy, are a high-income pro, or if you can get financing, my advice would be to spring for something (several somethings, in fact) more powerful, more feature-rich (and a LOT more expensive). Lights are like hard disks and internet connections: no matter how big a hard disk is, and no matter how fast your net connection is, they're never big or fast enough. But if you're just starting out, or are on a budget, or are an advanced (or advancing) amateur, these little babies sure make a lot of sense. Let's face it, your portrait clients (or your mother-in-law) won't have any idea whether you paid three hundred or three thousand for each of these strobes; they'll just be impressed (let them think they cost you an arm and a leg; especially those snooty, skinny, little models - "Ya want great head shots, sweetie? It's gonna cost ya; hell, my lights are so valuable, whenever I trade one in, I gotta pay it alimony!") Umm, just some photographer humor, folks :) - it sorta grows on you as you progress in photography; you'll see. |
The PS-300 is a "Monolight," which means that all the required components are included in the one package (as opposed to other strobes which may have the flash head in one segment, and then need an additional and separate power supply in order to get it to work; at an additional cost, too). With these units, everything is included; just plug them in, and fire away! The "ready" light goes on to let us know when the strobe is charged and ready to fire; The test button lets us fire the strobe to test its proper functioning; the sync terminal lets us control the firing of the strobe with the shutter button on our cameras; and the optical slave sensor lets us fire the strobe automatically with the flash of any other strobe or flash unit. The other controls are pretty much self-explanatory. |
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BTW, a "Modeling Light" is a separate, additional, light (in addition to the strobe's "Flash Tube") that's built into the strobe and throws continuous light over the same area as the strobe's flash tube will (see the picture below for a close-up). You turn on the modeling light (before your shot), so the photographer can see what the modeling will look like, as s/he adjusts the lights before he takes the shot and fires the strobe ("Modeling" is PhotoSpeak for the highlights (light areas) and shadows (dark areas) that fall upon the subject, giving it the depth and texture necessary for professional results). This great feature (modeling light) is usually only found on much more expensive lights. This unit can be activated by
the PC Cord (included, of course), the Test Button, or the Slave
Sensor (which means that any other flash, even your camera's
little built-in flash, can automatically fire this unit by it's
light alone, so you don't even need to use a sync (PC) cord unless
you want to). BTW, a "PC Cord"
(Push Contact), also called a "Sync Cord"
is a wire that connects the strobe to your camera, and fires
the strobe when you press the camera's shutter button. |
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We can see the difference between
the Modeling Light Bulb and the Flash Tube (the circular tube
surrounding the modeling bulb) in this close-up shot of the PS-300's
business end (with the reflector removed, of course). The answer was really simple: You don't. UNLESS your strobes also have MODELING LIGHTS! With modeling lights, you can see exactly where the strobe's flash will illuminate the subject, because the modeling light falls on the subject the same as the strobe's light will fall on the subject (less intensely, of course)! And this is why the pros pay lotsa money for good strobes that come with modeling lights. That's why the professional photographer's pictures look so much better than ours do: they have the right equipment for the job! They can CONTROL THE LIGHT! And now, so can you. |
| PhotoSpeak: What's a "Slave Sensor?" Well, if you had to use a PC Cord for every strobe, just think what a mess of tangled wires you'd have if you were using 5 or 6 or more strobes to light your subject (as many pros do)! So, science came to our rescue with slave sensors. It's a tiny little sensor built into most good strobes, that sits & waits for a short, intense burst of light. When it detects this burst of light (the flash from another strobe), it automatically sets off the flash tube in the strobe its built into. Voila! Now, with strobes that have slave sensors (often just called "slaves"), we can connect only one strobe to our cameras (with the PC or Sync cord), usually the strobe closest to our camera, and when we press the shutter button, firing the one connected strobe, that flash will automatically set off all the other strobes we may be using for that shot! Ah, ain't technology wunnerful (sic)? Even most of the little flashes built into most modern cameras can set off most strobes with slaves. A strobe that has PC socket, or both a PC Socket and a slave sensor is called a "Master" strobe; a strobe that only has a slave sensor and no PC socket (usually less expensive units) is called a "Slave." Whichever strobe you're using with a PC cord is referred to as your "master" strobe for purposes of that shot. Most of the better strobes have both PC sockets and slave sensors, so they're more versatile and useful to us (however, there are many very good slaves out there today, and you won't need all your strobes to be masters, so don't hesitate to buy some decent slaves when the time comes - and, believe me, if you stick with photography, the time will come). | |
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Complete: Each of these PS-300s comes complete with umbrella-capable reflector, sync cord, AC cord, Flash Tube, Modeling Light, built-in umbrella holder, and standard light stand connector; it's ready to plug in and fire away! Since these strobes are A.C. units, they're ready to rock! No batteries or powerpacks or light heads or connector cords are needed; just plug 'em in, and (just like Elvis) you're ready to rock and roll. As with all quality strobes, these are capable of using many additional custom accessories, of course (e.g., snoots, barn doors, softboxes, stands, unbrellas, honeycombs, gel holders, etc.). BTW, pros use umbrellas to "bounce" the strobe's light off of (or sometimes through) to make the light softer, reduce or eliminate shadows, and "mellow-out" the picture. Softboxes (and SoftCases) and umbrellas are specifically designed for this purpose (and yes, these are able to use custom-fitted softboxes & softcases). These are brand new, 100% guaranteed, with the manufacturer's full one year warrantee . These are NOT seconds, blemishes, or anything other than brand new, absolutely perfect, current 2001 models! Just 'cause the price is great, doesn't mean these are in any way less than perfect! Questions? Requests? just e-mail any questions or requests, to me at wryter@usa.net or check out-my web site HERE.-These strobes and other photographic equipment also come with an "extra" that's not available anywhere else, at any price whatsoever: FREE photographic education, advice and training from MyPhotoHome.com (coming soon to a computer near you)! MPH Members also get FREE web space (to post your own pictures), and much, much more (when MyPhotoHome.com comes online, shortly). |
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Point of Information: Why, you might be asking yourself, have virtually all photographers switched to using strobes, when "regular" continuous lights (photographers call them "hot" lights) are everywhere, and it's easier for us to see how the lighting will look with them? Well, the continuous lights, like the ones in our houses (tungsten lights), or halogen (and similar) are called "hot lights" for a reason: they get hot. Really hot! And the special photographic hot lights get twice as hot as household bulbs! This tends to make certain things, like flowers, foods, animals, and those darn pesky models, wilt. Especially models. They get very, very, unhappy when they wilt. Whine, gripe, groan; you'd think a little melting makeup, and running mascara, limp hair, and sticky lipstick, and beads of sweat running down their lovely curvaceous (umm, let's say noses) was a big deal or something, the way they complain! ;-) Next, there's a little problem with the "color temperature" being way off with hot lights, so we have to use special films (3200K or 3400K) or filters, or special photographic bulbs, when using them (strobes are perfectly balanced at 5500K to simulate sunlight, so we can use all the regular daylight films we've come to love/hate over the years). You'll notice that most of your pictures taken indoors without using a flash turn out with a yellowish color cast; that's because household lights are loaded with yellow and red light. The solution is to either use special films, or special filters. But why create more problems for yourself? Using strobes eliminates all these headaches (and heat!). Also, with continuous lights, they're always shining; usually right in our subject's eyes, causing squinting and annoyance (and ugly looking pictures). With strobes, nothing is shining in their eyes, and the flash is too short to cause any of this discomfort to our beloved subjects (until AFTER the flash, when they might be chasing all those little light blips around the room:). Additionally, with strobes, we can control the light much better! We can adjust the power output with the flick of a switch. We can modify the light with umbrellas, softboxes, softcases, filters, scrims and gobos, doo-dahs, and thingamajigs, etc., etc. We can direct the light with barn doors, snoots, honeycombs, and many other accessories. In short, with strobes, we can play God with our photography; WE CAN CONTROL THE LIGHT! And we can do it 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, whenever we want, no matter what the weather is, and without regard to daylight or night. There are yet other, more esoteric, as well as mundane reasons why strobes are the preferred means of photographic lighting in the modern world, but we'll pass on those things for now. You've probably had enough information shoved down your throat already (sorry, but I can't resist trying to educate everyone about photography). |
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| BTW,
technically speaking, all professional photographic flash units,
even though nearly all pros call them "strobes," are
not technically strobe lights. A real stroboscope is capable
of dozens (or hundreds or even thousands) of flashes per second,
and many can maintain that flash rate for hours on end. Our photographic
strobes would die a dozen deaths if we tried to set them off
25 or 50 times a second! However, since photographers almost
always call these lights "strobes," we'll just stick
with the term; but, technically..... Well, you get the idea ;-> Back to top |
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| NEW! See ALL my eBay auctions; all items, kits, and packages! Here's a special page, where you can find almost every one of my auction packages, even those which are NOT currently running on eBay, and many NEW auctions that will be coming in the days and weeks ahead! Check it out! <- Clicking here will open up a new window, retaining this page behind it, so you won't lose your place. Just one more thoughtful and considerate benefit of dealing with PhotoSource3! =:-) |
 Technique: Why would we want to dim a strobe to
1/2 power? Because in order to get great pictures, we have to
be able to control the light (sound familiar?) in a number of
ways. Sometimes a full power flash is too powerful for the effect
we're after; other times we may want to reduce the illumination
to create a different mood. In people pictures, for a head shot
(that's what photographers call a picture of a person's face,
often the face and shoulders), we often want part of the face
highlighted, and the other part of the face in a light to medium
shadow. This interplay of light and shadow is called "modeling,"
and is a hallmark of good photography. Anyway, as an example,
a common lighting ratio for people pictures is a 1:2 (also 1:3,
1:4, or even 1:5) ratio - full illumination on one side of the
face, and 1/2 that amount of light on the other side of the subject's
face (we rarely want full frontal lighting, because it gives
the face a flat and unappealing look, as well as other negative
aspects). The 1:2 (full/half) lighting combination can give us
an interesting and often flattering image, with a good ratio
of light and shadow - revealing the character, and giving us
depth and texture (but be sure to play around with other lighting
ratios, too, for even more creativity). Whenever we have two
strobes to work with, we can achieve this 1:2 ratio by moving
one strobe (the one providing the shadow side lighting) twice
as far away from the subject as our main light (the strobe providing
the full illumination). But often things get in the way, like
walls and such; not all of us have lots of room in our studios
(especially living room studios :) to move our lights as far
away as we like. Aha! The scientific wizards devised a most convenient
solution! A variable-power strobe (like this great PS-300)! Now,
instead of moving lights all over the place, all we have to do
is flip a switch, and Voila! 1/2 power without any hassle at
all! In some very powerful strobes, we might even find variations
from full power, all the way down to 1/32 power. Another way
to achieve a lighting ratio (when we only have one strobe) is
to use a reflector to "bounce" some light onto the
shadow side of the subject's face. You can buy a "professional"
reflector for as much as $100.00 or more, but I just use a white
poster board, which you can find at any art supply store for
under two bucks. You don't have to spend a fortune to make great
pictures, just use your equipment to its fullest extent - and
use your head! Back up to the PS-300 description |
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| AC Input | 110-120 Volt |
| AC Fuse | 5 Amp |
| Modeling Lamp | 100W Halogen (rated 1,000 hours) |
| Flash Tube | BC-100Y (rated 10,000 flashes) 150WS (huh?) |
| Guide No. (ISO 100) | GN: 45 Meters / 150 Feet (huh?) |
| Trigger | Test button / Slave / PC Cord |
| Slave Effective Distance | 15 Meters / 50 Feet |
| Sync Socket | 5 ø Standard Earphone Type, 6V DC |
| Diameter of Light Head | 70 ø mm |
| Recycling Time | 1-3 Seconds |
| Dimensions & Weight | 240 x 80 x 140mm 0.65Kg |
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| Q. What the heck is a "WS" and what's a "GN," and what in the world do they mean? . |
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Here's a brief explanation (using,
for this example, your (well, it might be yours soon:) new PS-300
strobe, which have a power level of 150WS, and a GN of 150): For example, (presuming you're using ISO/ASA 100 film), our GN is 150, and the subject is 12 feet away, then: 150 (GN) divided by 12 (feet away from the subject) = 12.5, so we'd use an exposure setting of just over F11. If our subject is 8 feet away, then: 150 divided by 8 = 18.75 which would give us an approximate F stop of just over 16. See? Umm, if you don't understand it, don't worry about it (it took me years to fully comprehend). Suggestion: If you're serious about improving your photography, you should consider getting a handheld flash/ambient light meter (sorry, I don't carry any at this time). Back up to the PS-300 description ------------------- Back to top of page |
| NEW! See ALL my eBay auctions; all items, kits, and packages! Here's a special page, where you can find almost every one of my auction packages, even those which are NOT currently running on eBay, and many NEW auctions that will be coming in the days and weeks ahead! Be among the cognoscenti, Check it out now! <- Clicking here will open up a new window, retaining this page behind it. |
Here's
some information about the items comprising
your new studio kit: The New "SoftCase" Light Modifier
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Here's a front view of the amazing new SoftCase. The SoftCase performs exactly the same function as a soft box, the only difference is that it's a molded plastic unit, rather than made entirely out of fabric, as is the softbox. Both the SoftCase and the SoftBox are used to soften the light, which almost "magically" softens and hides the lines and wrinkles often found on the faces of our portrait subjects, as well as minimizing or eliminating the reflections and "hot spots" caused by reflective surfaces (glass, metal, ceramics, chrome, oil paintings, and virtually all other reflective surfaces). Needless to say, our clients love the results! The SoftCase is one of the most valuable pieces of equipment the photographer has in his/her arsenal of accessories. Similar to the photographic umbrella in it's ability to mellow out the light, it allows more light to reach out subjects, since it allows us to direct the strobe towards our subjects, rather than "bouncing" the light backwards off a reflection umbrella. |
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The SoftCase gives us the the options of using only the outside light panel, as pictured above, or using only the Interior Baffle, as shown here, or using BOTH the outside panel AND the Interior Baffle. More choices, more creativity. Unlike the umbrella, which offers us no choices in light softening, the SoftCase gives us the choice of modifying the "softness" of the light by one panel, or by two panels. This choice of light softening levels gives the photographer more control, more creative options, and the ability to use these choices to exert the maximum possible creative control in his/her photographic endeavors. Just one more reason why the professional photographer's pictures look so much better than our pictures do - because the pros have the right tools for the job! Didja ever try to bang in a nail with a pair of pliers, or the handle of a screwdriver? Yeah, maybe it can be done, but if you had a hammer, it could be done better, quicker, easier, and safer (ouch! how many times do we have to nearly crush our thumbs before learning this lesson?:)! |
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This view shows the SoftCase without either the interior or exterior panels. As you can see, it is designed to fit your Britek strobes perfectly. You simply remove the reflector from your strobe, and attach the SoftCase. In use, you can use only the interior panel, only the exterior panel, or both panels. Each configuration gives us a slightly different result. So practice and experiment; you'll soon learn exactly how to get the effects you want. This is a great starter strobe kit for portrait work and/or for photographing reflective surfaces. You have the strobe, the light stand, and the SoftCase to soften the light and help to hide the wrinkles or minimize reflections. A good beginning to get started in studio photography (and it's a simple and easy matter to add additional equipment as your future needs may dictate). Who da man? Huh? |
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Here's some information about the items
comprising
your new studio kit: Brand New 3.3 to 7.5 Foot Light stand
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These fabulous light stands
are truly top quality units without compromises. These Brand
New Britek light stands extend to a height of 7 1/2 Feet, and
fold down (fully assembled) to only 3.3 feet for easy packing
and transport. Reality Check: Hey, if you're rich, I'd suggest buying a set of bigger, heavier (& more expensive) stands for your pro studio setup, and another set of lightweight stands for location shoots; but my studio is in my house, and I don't have 20 foot ceilings for the 18' stands anyway, so these stands work just fine for me. 7 1/2 feet is plenty high, even for hairlights, or toplighting, etc. And they're unquestionably sturdy enough for studio work, and light enough for location work. Realize, though, that these stands, while certainly a great deal and a marvelous value, are the working photog's reliable, blue collar light stands; not the prissy luxury models. Treat them with minimal respect, and they'll see you through to old age. These light stands, like all this equipment, are brand new and, of course, they come with the manufacturer's full warrantee. Additional accessories are also available (booms, clamps, studs, swivels, adapters, ball tilt heads, etc., etc.), as your needs may dictate. These sturdy light stands are rated to hold a load of over 17 1/2 pounds (but, personally, I try to keep the load under 15 lbs when it's fully extended out to 7 1/2 feet) either way, they're likely to be able to hold darn near any lighting units you're using. All the sections of these stands are quality tubular stock, NOT the cheapie solid ones (which are heavier and less versatile, as well as cheaper). The only "cheap" part of these stands is the price - not the quality! Bid now, while they're still in stock. |
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I usually have photo equipment, pro strobes, background systems, and other great photo stuff, etc. listed. |
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H70-
150mm 6" Umbrella Reflector Used alone for about 60º coverage, or with barn doors to control lighting spread, or with an umbrella to create soft and diffuse lighting. This custom reflector is designed with a special "slot" in it to allow for the use of an umbrella, without the need for a special umbrella holder accessory! A unique innovation! This is the reflector that usually comes with the Britek PS-300 Strobes, since they have an integral umbrella holder built in to the strobe's light stand connector. |
 Technique: The most important "secret" of good photography is the thought the photographer
puts into a picture before s/he even considers what type of film
to use! The point here is that we have to train ourselves to
think before we shoot! What color is our subject? How
can we make that color (or shade) stand out? Look at the example
here,
and see how the simple choice of using a background that matches
our subject's (blue) eye color can improve our pictures. In the
lovely picture to your left, notice how the blue-violet shadows
to the right of the model's head accentuate her blue eyes. Notice,
too how half the face is in a light shadow, adding depth and
texture. We have to ask ourselves: What do we want to emphasize
in our picture? How will we direct our viewers' eye to our subject?
If it's an outdoors photograph, how will we separate our main
subject from any other distracting elements in our photograph?
At which angle should we shoot? Is it important to establish
place in this photograph (i.e., is it important for the viewer
to know where our subject is? Or do we want to hide the location)?
If we're shooting people, what is our victim's least appealing
feature (i.e., a large nose, a bald head, pot belly, lotsa wrinkles,
etc.:)? How can we hide or de-emphasize it? What's our subject's
most appealing feature (i.e., eyes, profile, smile, boobs - oops!
sorry, I couldn't resist:) ? How can we emphasize the attractive
aspects of our subjects? These are the questions photographers
have to ask, before we shoot. THINK before you shoot!
MAKE a photograph - don't "take" a snapshot! Learn
to "design" your picture before you pick up your camera!
Take a piece of paper and a pencil, and sketch out what you want
in the picture you're considering; this will be a great help
in the beginning, and after a few weeks or months of doing this,
you'll start to do it all in your head, and won't need the pencil
and paper any more. I promise you that a good photograph doesn't
require the genius of an Einstein - it just takes a little thought
and preparation (creativity and practice doesn't hurt either)!
You don't have to study photography for 20 years, just train
yourself to think before you shoot! Don't try to plan
out 100 subjects all at once; think about one or two, and then
use 10 rolls of film on just a few ideas. Shoot from different
angles; shoot from different heights; shoot with different lighting
angles; shoot with color film; shoot with black and white film;
think, then shoot! Pretty soon, you'll wake up one day and realize
that you've changed; you'll look at the world differently; you'll
"see" things most people never even notice; one day,
you'll realize that you've become something special; something
different, but different in a most amazing and wonderful way;
you will have become - a photographer!© 2001 Quickie Technique #5: Exposure - All meters built into all cameras are "reflection" meters; they read the light reflected by our subjects AND everything else in our viewfinder! This often causes incorrect readings, and pictures that turn out looking like doo-doo. Instead of letting our camera's meter read the exposure from our whole frame, set your built-in meter to its "spot" setting. Then, center the most Important part of your subject (i.e., the face of a person, the flower petals of a flower, the coat of a dog, etc.) in your meter's spot circle and take your reading; then, when our viewfinder's spot circle is filled with our subject and NOT with the surroundings, lock in exposure (e.g., press the shutter button half-way down), re-compose the shot, and then press the shutter button all the way down and make the exposure! I think you'll be pleased with the results! More "quickie techniques" information will be included in my other auction descriptions. Thank you for viewing this auction, and may you have the very best of luck! |
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You can see many of the photographic items I list on eBay HERE! |
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| ----------------Unbelievable
as it may be, this is a NO RESERVE auction! The first auction for these amazing sets was so popular, and so many bidders lost out, I've brought them back one more time! But this time it's upgraded to include the new PS-300 Pro Strobe at 150WS! There are only 4 of these packages available at this incredibly low price, so bid to win, because last time lots of folks lost out on this fabulous deal (and please, pretty please, bid a lot higher, OK? otherwise I'll starve - and so will my 37 hungry children ;-)! |
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| You could end up owning this great professional photographic lighting package for only 149.00! That's LESS than half of what you'd pay for just one single strobe from a competing manufacturer or photo supplier! Who da man? "PhotoSource3" on eBay, of course! Duh! -----[How can you sell brand new equipment for such low prices?] | |
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| Quickie Photographic Technique #3: Portraits - Set the camera at subject's eye level; focus on the eyes; light one side of the face brighter than the other (half in light to medium shadow); to hide wrinkles use umbrellas or softbox/softcase; to further hide wrinkles, use a "soft focus" filter (it works like magic!); to de-emphasize a large nose, raise camera level slightly and shoot full or 3/4 face (also use longer lens); to de-emphasize a receding hairline, lower camera slightly or have subject raise head slightly. More "quickie technique" information will be included in my other auction descriptions. Thank you for viewing this auction, and good luck! | |
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From whom should you buy your photographic equipment? Hey, it's your hard-earned money, so you should buy from anybody you darn well like! However, one of the advantages of buying from another photographer is that, unlike "salesmen," who just want to "sell" things to you, a photographer will know what you need, and what you don't need; a photographer will know why you'll need something, and why you won't need something; a photographer will have actually used the equipment being sold, and will be able to offer advice based on real-life experience. Of course, the facts that photographers (like us) are usually much better-looking, a lot smarter, definitely kinder, and unquestionably much more creative than other folks, doesn't hurt either, does it? ;-) Unlike the others who try to
cover up their own ignorance with vague warnings cautioning you
against buying from anyone else (but them, that is:),
I won't stoop to such reprehensible behavior; I guess I'm just
not greedy enough to do such things. In addition, I trust you
to be smart enough to make up your very own mind, without my
self-serving advice, telling you who you should and shouldn't
patronize. Sure, I'm in business to sell photographic equipment,
but I'd rather lose a few sales than insult my customers' intelligence
with admonitions like: "Buy from me! Don't buy from the
other guy!" So go ahead and check out what's available,
compare prices, quality, and customer service philosophies; see who you
think will provide more help and support. Then, check out the
feedback profiles; go look to see what the
other "photographic experts" were selling a few months
ago (that'll be a revelation:). Next visit the web sites, of your potential suppliers (especially
those who claim to be photographers with "100 years experience,"
and see how much they really know about photography).
Then, in addition to the usual, logical, informed, procedures
for making your purchasing decisions, check with the old standby
that's almost always right, your gut feelings. Do your homework;
make up your own mind. Then, without doubt, you'll surely come
to the right conclusion. [However, - just in the interest of
saving you time and trouble ;-) the conclusion you'll surely
come to is that "PhotoSource3"
on eBay (who is also the
beloved founder and talented creator of MyPhotoHome and Photographer's SupplyStation) is "Da
Man" from whom to buy your photographic goodies! =:-) ]
Thank you for being kind enough to view this auction (I hope
you realize that my humor is intended to be fun, and is meant
with kindness), may you have the best of luck, and don't forget,
as always, no matter who you choose to honor with your photographic
purchases, take (or better yet, "make") lots of great
pictures! And remember, you can't get good - unless you get started. |
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This is a No Reserve auction! What a great opportunity to own this brand new pro strobe kit!
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| Shipping & handling is only $32.85 (in continental USA) for ground delivery of first kit; if you bid on and win more than one, add $28.75 for 2nd unit and above. Other shipping methods available (UPS 3 Day Select, Next Day Air or Fed Express, etc.), buyer chooses. If you want a shipping quote, feel free to e-mail me. Payments by credit cards, cashier's checks and money orders shipped immediately; personal & business checks are welcome, but order will be held until check clears (5-10 business days). Taxable for California residents only. Thank you for taking the time to view this auction, may you have best of luck, and happy bidding!! |
| BTW, if you should ever outgrow this kit (unlikely, because photographers can always use all the lights we can get), but if you do, you can either trade it in on the new ones, or sell it (maybe even right here on eBay) - and at the amazingly low price you'll get these strobes for in this PhotoSource3 auction, you'll almost certainly be able to sell it/them for much more than you paid for it! So unlike that great computer we're all using right now (which will be almost worthless, for resale purposes, in 6 months or a year), these lights will retain a good portion of their value if or when you're ready to move on. This auction is for individuals only! No dealer sales. |
| Guaranteed! This brand new, top quality, strobe equals or surpasses those with retail list prices far higher! Go ahead, check with your local photo store(s). Bid responsibly, but with confidence. These items are 100% guaranteed to be brand new, with the full manufacturer's warantee (one year)! You may return this light (in new and undamaged condition, of course) within 7 days of receipt for a full refund (excluding shipping), if it is not exactly as described above in every way. Trust me, you'll love it! For literally hundreds of more objective opinions, check my feedback; and see what every other customer has had to say about this strobe (as well as every other item I've ever sold), and about my service, and my commitment to 100% customer satisfaction! Hey, us struggling photogs have to stick together, y'know (and all of us are always struggling - to make that elusive "perfect" photograph, huh?). Thanks again for viewing this auction, and best of luck to you; feel free to e-mail any questions to me, and may the photographic Gods smile upon you! Umm, a nice present from the Lottery Gods wouldn't hurt, either, huh? :-) For answers to common questions, read my FAQ. |
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| As an eBay PowerSeller, a Billpoint PreferredSeller, and a PayPal "Verified" premier business seller, my customers are safer, happier, and better off all around! :-) If you're a PayPal user, you no longer have that darn $1-2,000.00 limit every 6 months on your purchases when you order from me (unlimited credit)! If you're a Billpoint user (your credit is unlimited again), you will NOT have that annoying $500-1,000.00 per auction limit on your purchases when you buy from me, and even if you're new to Billpoint, there's NO waiting or verification delays whatsoever, so your order can be shipped immediately (and you can use Billpoint to pay for any purchase from me - unlike the limits you have with ordinary sellers)! You're ALWAYS better off buying from PhotoSource3! Plus, your purchase is doubly guaranteed against fraud! Read more about your safeguards... Hey, with all these options and safeguards, as well as phenomenal prices and photographic expertise, you must ask yourself one question: "Who da man?" ;-) PhotoSource3 be da man, of course! Duh! | |
| NOTE: You're welcome to pay with PayPal, Billpoint, or BidPay by credit card or electronic check. Billpoint and BidPay will allow folks from countries other than the USA to use credit cards, too. For those not technologically inclined, snail mail (i.e. the post office) will also work just fine. See all your payment and shipping options here. I hope this helps provide enough alternatives for you (if not, feel free to send in your suggestions; e-mail me here). One of the differences between me and the big guys, is the fact that I'm always willing to do whatever I possibly can to help out my customers in whatever ways are needed. Here's my philosophy on "Customer Service." Will I ship to Canada and other countries? Sure I will! But read this before placing an out-of-the-USA bid. Basically, if you're willing to pay the increased shipping charges, then I'll probably be happy to ship to you. | |
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 Check out my other auctions! |
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| Questions, questions, questions.... |
| How can you sell brand new photographic equipment for such low prices? What shipping and payment options do you offer? How do I know I can trust you with my hard-earned money? What's your policy on customer service? Will these pro strobes work with my camera? With my digital camera? What if my camera is old? How do I contact you? If I live in Southern California; can I pick up the equipment myself? Will you offer more photographic equipment (than you have now)? Are your products guaranteed or warranted? What if I want certain equipment, but you don't have an auction with the equipment I want? Do you accept Lay-Away payment plans? Will you ship to Canada or Europe or Asia? What if I have some technical questions? Hey! Somebody else e-mailed me after I bid on your auction(s) and offered me a "deal" on cheaper equipment... and many more of your questions answered - just click below! |
| Answers, answers, answers.... |
| PLEASE NOTE: In an effort to make my eBay user name more pertinent to the equipment I'm selling, I've changed my user name from: "thesource3" to: "PhotoSource3." So from now on, when checking for my eBay auctions, please remember that I'm now known as PhotoSource3! See ALL my auctions! |
© 2001 RMorgan/Adam Publishing Co./Wryter
All Wrights Wreserved Worldwide! So there! ;-)
