The Photographer's SupplyStation
(a tiny little division of Adam Publishing Co.)
Home | Contents | Go to MyPhotoHome.com | Contact Us | Order Form | FAQ

 NEW! Instant Purchase now available (see below)

4portBkg3SSP

FOUR Strobe/Flash Portrait AND
Background Support Package II - All Brand New!

 Here's a GREAT New 4 Strobe Portrait & Background Package!
All BRAND NEW!

Here's what you get:

1) One Britek HS-500 Professional Strobe 180WS! <- New! (Show Me)
2) Two Britek SM-1250 125WS Professional Strobes (Show Me)
3) One AS-66 20WS Mini Strobe with Custom Barndoors, Snoot, & Honeycomb Set (Show Me)
4) Two 7 1/2 Foot Light Stands (Show Me)
5) One BackLight Stand (Show Me)
6) One Economy Background Support Set (Show Me)
7) One 44" Black / White Umbrella (Show Me)
8) Three Unique Umbrella Reflectors (Show Me)
9) One H70MM Snoot (Show Me)
10) One Medium Honeycomb and (Show Me)
11) One Tilt & Swivel Clamp Bulb Holder (Show Me)
12) One 6' 8" x 9' Raw Muslin Background/Backdrop (Show Me)

Just scroll down or click on a "Show Me" link to jump down. (Kit #341)

Check out my great Photographic web site HERE!
This is truly a wonderful professional portrait setup! With Three powerful main master strobes (a powerful 180WS strobe plus 2 great 125WS units) to light your victims (um, your "subjects" that is:) and your background (adding the depth and separation characteristic of professional images) in the most creative manner, a great Mini-Strobe for highlights or hairlights, a huge 44" umbrella to soften the light and hide those facial lines, sags, and wrinkles (making your subjects look younger and more vital), and in addition, a background support set to hold your backgrounds (also called backdrops), plus a great raw Muslin background/backdrop to start you out, you'll have everything you'll need to start getting the fantastic pictures that will flatter and amaze your clients (or your kids, parents, friends, or relatives)!

http://myphotohome.com/



Shop with confidence!
Bid with confidence!
Buy with confidence!
From a Profoundly Proud
eBay PowerSeller!

This PowerSeller proudly provides a plethora of perfect premium photographic products - PLUS - pure, powerful, and peerless customer service!
Why you're safer shopping with me...

[Ain't that great alliteration? Huh? Well, ain't it?]

--> Check out all my other wonderful auctions!

Check out my great Photographic web site HERE!


 Questions, questions, questions....
How can you sell brand new photographic equipment for such low prices? What shipping and payment options do you offer? How do I know I can trust you with my hard-earned money? What's your policy on customer service? Will these pro strobes work with my camera? Will they work with my digital camera? What if my camera is old? How do I contact you? If I live in Southern California; can I pick up the equipment myself? Will you offer more photographic equipment (than you have now)? Are your products guaranteed or warranted? What if I want certain equipment, but you don't have an auction with the equipment I want? Do you accept Lay-Away payment plans? Will you ship to Canada or Europe or Asia? What if I have some technical questions? Hey! Somebody else e-mailed me after I bid on your auction(s) and offered me a "deal" on cheaper equipment... and many more of your questions answered - just click below!
 Answers, answers, answers....

Here's some information about the items comprising
your new studio kit: The HS-500 Pro Studio Strobe 180WS


The NEW HS-500 Monolight
This brand new Britek HS-500 is a great 180WS Monolight for the beginning professional, the pro with budget constraints, or the advanced amateur who is ready to bring the professional look to his or her photographs (without mortgaging the house).


Why are photogs so in love with their studios? BECAUSE (in our studios) WE CAN CONTROL THE LIGHT! And a "studio" can be a corner of any room, as long as we can CONTROL THE LIGHT. In our studios, we can play God! We can make it daytime or evening or night; we can shoot 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. We can CREATE anything we can imagine - as long as we can CONTROL THE LIGHT!

After all, the word "photographer" itself (from Greek) actually means Light Writer, or "one who writes with light."

The term is meaningful because those of us who make photographs are slaves to light. Light is both our nemesis and our salvation (when we can control the light). Without the right types of lighting equipment, we can never progress to professional level studio pictures. Or location pictures.

Sure, we can make beautiful photos with available light... when the light's just right, at the exact time we need it, and at exact place we need it, if it's not raining, if it's not snowing, if it's not too cold, if it's not too hot, if it's not too dark, if everyone we need to make the pictures are available at the exact time the light's just right for our needs, under all the right conditions.... beginning to see now? When we can control the light, we can make the best photographs.

PhotoSpeak: BTW, did you notice, above, that I said "make" photographs, and not "take" pictures? Well, here's your first lesson in how pros speak about photography (photospeak): "Snapshooters" or "point and shooters," who don't think and plan their shots (e.g., most of us) are the ones who "take" pictures (the rank amateurs). Photographers "make" great photographs by careful thought, detailed planning, and, most of all, scrupulous attention to lighting. Before they even think about pressing that shutter, they "design" their photos carefully. Soon, with a little effort, you'll be "making" great photographs! It's not that hard, believe me. But ya gotta CONTROL THE LIGHT!

This little beauty cranks out a full 180 watt seconds* for mamma or poppa (or both)!

Why do photographers want powerful flash equipment (strobes)? Because (both indoors and outdoors) with strobes, WE CAN CONTROL THE LIGHT! Sound familiar? Starting to get the picture, now? (sorry, I just couldn't resist ;-)

BTW, did you realize that both the photo above, and the photo on the left, were both taken against the same background? Yup. The backdrop was a pure white canvas. Why does the picture on the left look like it has a brown background? BECAUSE I COULD CONTROL THE LIGHT. Even with a cheapie old (really old) digital Fuji (no speed control, no slr, no aperture choice, etc.). How? See the "technique section below).

Hmmm... Light!

*What the heck is a "watt second?" And what's a "GN?"

Technique: How was I able to make the background that's in the top picture pure white, and the very same background, in the picture above, appear brown? It's easy - when you know how (it's sorta like this: What kind of question is a hard question? Answer: One you don't know the answer to. And what kind of question is an easy question? Answer: That's the one you do know the answer to). Here's how it's done: In the top picture, I lit the background with a backlight strobe (it's own strobe), so it received enough light to expose properly, and consequently it came out pure white. In the picture above, I did not light the background; I just used the tiny little built-in flash on the digital Fuji, which was enough to (barely) light the strobe I was photographing, but too weak to reach or brighten up the backdrop to white; therefore, the background underexposed and looked brownish, even though it was really a pure white canvas! Carried to an extreme, I could even make a white background look black, if I wanted to. How? By lighting the subject so brightly that the (unlit) background would underexpose (i.e., not receive enough light) so badly it would come out black. It's all in the LIGHT folks; it's all in the light! Remember, a photographer is a LIGHT writer.
Back to top

More about the new HS-500.....

At the great price you'll get this package for, you could own all this equipment for LESS than you might pay for just a single strobe from a competing manufacturer!

This is a Fabulous deal, but let's not lose sight of the reality. If you're rich, have a sugar-mommy or daddy, are a high-income pro, or if you can get financing, my advice would be to spring for something (several somethings, in fact) more powerful, more feature-rich (and a LOT more expensive). Lights are like hard disks and internet connections: no matter how big a hard disk is, and no matter how fast your net connection is, they're never big or fast enough. But if you're just starting out, or are on a budget, or are an advanced (or advancing) amateur, these babies sure make a lot of sense. They pump out 180WS of power, and will easily handle almost anything you could fit in a small or medium-sized studio. Let's face it, your portrait clients (or your mother-in-law) won't have any idea whether you paid six hundred or six thousand for each of these strobes; they'll just be impressed (let them think they cost you an arm and a leg; especially those snooty, skinny, little models - "Ya want great head shots, sweetie? It's gonna cost ya; hell, my lights are so valuable, whenever I trade one in, I gotta pay it alimony!") Umm, just some photographer humor, folks :) - it sorta grows on you as you progress in photography; you'll see.

Now lemme tell ya about another great feature on these dynamite units that are not found on many competing strobes costing 3-5 times the price of these: when you set these units for 1/2 power, the modeling lights ALSO dim to 1/2 power! What a great feature (what's a "modeling light?" see the explanation just below this picture)! [Why, you may ask, would we want to reduce a strobe's power output? see the "technique" section, below.low.


As we can see from the back view, The New HS-500 is well-stocked with controls and comes with all the extras already built-in.

The HS-500 is a "Monolight," which means that all the required components are included in the one package (as opposed to other strobes which may have the flash head in one segment, and then need an additional and separate power supply in order to get it to work; at an additional cost, too). With these units, everything is included; just plug them in, and rock and roll!

<- Click to enlarge

BTW, a "Modeling Light" is a separate, additional, light (in addition to the strobe's "Flash Tube") that's built into the strobe and throws continuous light over the same area as the strobe's flash tube will (see the picture below for a close-up). You turn on the modeling light (before your shot), so the photographer can see what the modeling will look like, as s/he adjusts the lights before he takes the shot and fires the strobe ("Modeling" is PhotoSpeak for the highlights (light areas) and shadows (dark areas) that fall upon the subject, giving it the depth and texture necessary for professional results). This great feature (modeling light) is usually only found on much more expensive lights.

This unit can be activated by the PC Cord (included, of course), the Test Button, or the Slave Sensor (which means that any other flash, even your camera's little built-in flash, can automatically fire this unit by it's light alone, so you don't even need to use a sync (PC) cord unless you want to). BTW, a "PC Cord" (Push Contact), also called a "Sync Cord" is a wire that connects the strobe to your camera, and fires the strobe when you press the camera's shutter button.

We can see the difference between the Modeling Light Bulb and the Flash Tube (the circular tube surrounding the modeling bulb) in this close-up shot of the HS-500's business end (with the reflector removed, of course).

The modeling light is especially valuable to the amateur, because it let's us "see" exactly where the light will fall when the strobe flashes. This feature alone is worth at least a hundred rolls of ruined film (which you'll save by having a modeling light)! One of the major questions (and hesitations) I had when I was beginning to learn photography, was "If you use strobes, how do you know what the subject will look like, or how and where the light will illuminate the subject, if you don't have continuous lighting to judge by?"

The answer was really simple: You don't. UNLESS your strobes also have MODELING LIGHTS! With modeling lights, you can see exactly where the strobe's flash will illuminate the subject, because the modeling light falls on the subject the same as the strobe's light will fall on the subject (less intensely, of course)! And this is why the pros pay lotsa money for good strobes that come with modeling lights. That's why the professional photographer's pictures look so much better than ours do: they have the right equipment for the job! They can CONTROL THE LIGHT! And now, so can you. The HS-500 comes with a powerful 150 watt halogen modeling light (it's rated at 1,000 hours; the flash tube is rated for 10,000 flashes! And, yes, replacements are always available - but you'll probably grow old before you'll need to replace one of these flash tubes).

PhotoSpeak: What's a "Slave Sensor?" Well, if you had to use a PC Cord for every strobe, just think what a mess of tangled wires you'd have if you were using 5 or 6 or more strobes to light your subject (as many pros do)! So, science came to our rescue with slave sensors. It's a tiny little sensor built into most good strobes, that sits & waits for a short, intense burst of light. When it detects this burst of light (the flash from another strobe), it automatically sets off the flash tube in the strobe its built into. Voila! Now, with strobes that have slave sensors (often just called "slaves"), we can connect only one strobe to our cameras (with the PC or Sync cord), usually the strobe closest to our camera, and when we press the shutter button, firing the one connected strobe, that flash will automatically set off all the other strobes we may be using for that shot! Ah, ain't technology wunnerful (sic)? Even most of the little flashes built into most modern cameras can set off most strobes with slaves. A strobe that has PC socket, or both a PC Socket and a slave sensor is called a "Master" strobe; a strobe that only has a slave sensor and no PC socket (usually less expensive units) is called a "Slave." Whichever strobe you're using with a PC cord is referred to as your "master" strobe for purposes of that shot. Most of the better strobes have both PC sockets and slave sensors, so they're more versatile and useful to us (however, there are many very good slaves out there today, and you won't need all your strobes to be masters, so don't hesitate to buy some decent slaves when the time comes - and, believe me, if you stick with photography, the time will come).

Complete: Each of these HS-500s comes complete with umbrella-capable reflector, sync cord, AC cord, Flash Tube, Modeling Light, built-in umbrella holder, and standard light stand connector; it's ready to plug in and fire away! Since all the strobes in this package are A.C. units, they're ready to rock! No batteries or powerpacks or light heads or connector cords are needed; just plug 'em in, and (just like Elvis) you're ready to rock and roll. As with all quality strobes, these are capable of using many additional custom accessories, of course (e.g., snoots, barn doors, softboxes, stands, unbrellas, honeycombs, gel holders, etc.). BTW, pros use umbrellas to "bounce" the strobe's light off of (or sometimes through) to make the light softer, reduce or eliminate shadows, and "mellow-out" the picture. Softboxes (and SoftCases) and umbrellas are specifically designed for this purpose (and yes, these are able to use custom-fitted softboxes & softcases).

These are brand new, 100% guaranteed, with the manufacturer's full one year warrantee . These are NOT seconds, blemishes, or anything other than brand new, absolutely perfect, current 2001 models! Just 'cause the price is great, doesn't mean these are in any way less than perfect! Questions? Requests? just e-mail any questions or requests, to me at wryter@usa.net or check out-my web site HERE.-These strobes and other photographic equipment also come with an "extra" that's not available anywhere else, at any price whatsoever: FREE photographic education, advice and training from MyPhotoHome.com (coming soon to a computer near you)! MPH Members also get FREE web space (to post your own pictures), and much, much more (when MyPhotoHome.com comes online, shortly).
Back to top

Point of Information: Why, you might be asking yourself, have virtually all photographers switched to using strobes, when "regular" continuous lights (photographers call them "hot" lights) are everywhere, and it's easier for us to see how the lighting will look with them? Well, the continuous lights, like the ones in our houses (tungsten lights), or halogen (and similar) are called "hot lights" for a reason: they get hot. Really hot! And the special photographic hot lights get twice as hot as household bulbs! This tends to make certain things, like flowers, foods, animals, and those darn pesky models, wilt. Especially models. They get very, very, unhappy when they wilt. Whine, gripe, groan; you'd think a little melting makeup, and running mascara, limp hair, and sticky lipstick, and beads of sweat running down their lovely curvaceous (umm, let's say noses) was a big deal or something, the way they complain! ;-)

Next, there's a little problem with the "color temperature" being way off with hot lights, so we have to use special films (3200K or 3400K) or filters, or special photographic bulbs, when using them (strobes are perfectly balanced at 5500K to simulate sunlight, so we can use all the regular daylight films we've come to love/hate over the years). You'll notice that most of your pictures taken indoors without using a flash turn out with a yellowish color cast; that's because household lights are loaded with yellow light. The solution is to either use special films, or special filters. But why create more problems for yourself? Using strobes eliminates all these headaches (and heat!). Also, with continuous lights, they're always shining; usually right in our subject's eyes, causing squinting and annoyance (and ugly looking pictures). With strobes, nothing is shining in their eyes, and the flash is too short to cause any of this discomfort to our beloved subjects (until AFTER the flash, when they might be chasing all those little light blips around the room:). Additionally, with strobes, we can control the light much better! We can adjust the power output with the flick of a switch. We can modify the light with umbrellas, softboxes, softcases, filters, scrims and gobos, doo-dahs, and thingamajigs, etc., etc. We can direct the light with barn doors, snoots, honeycombs, and many other accessories. In short, with strobes, we can play God with our photography; WE CAN CONTROL THE LIGHT! And we can do it 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, whenever we want, no matter what the weather is, and without regard to daylight or night. There are yet other, more esoteric, as well as mundane reasons why strobes are the preferred means of photographic lighting in the modern world, but we'll pass on those things for now. You've probably had enough information shoved down your throat already (sorry).

BTW, technically speaking, all professional photographic flash units, even though nearly all pros call them "strobes," are not technically strobe lights. A real stroboscope is capable of dozens (or hundreds or even thousands) of flashes per second, and many can maintain that flash rate for hours on end. Our photographic strobes would die a dozen deaths if we tried to set them off 25 or 50 times a second! However, since photographers almost always call these lights "strobes," we'll just stick with the term; but, technically..... Well, you get the idea ;->
Back to top
Wondering what the reserve price is? I never hide anything from my (beloved) bidders! Just look for "Elvis" and you'll see the reserve price clearly listed.
Will these strobes work with my digital camera? Most likely, they will; read this!

Q. What the heck is a "WS" and what's a "GN," and what in the world do they mean?

WS = Watt Second | GN = Guide Number

Here's a brief explanation (using, for this example, your new HS-500 strobe (well, it might be yours soon:) , which has a power level of 180WS, and a GN of 150):

The "180WS" (or the 80WS, or 20WS, etc.) is the output power of your strobe and a watt second is equal to the electrical term "joules," a high-falutin term for a high power level. The Guide Number (GN) of these HS-500 units is 150 (for ASA/ISO 100 film), with a standard reflector. What good is knowing the guide number? Well, the GN gives us a method of calculating exposure (for any strobe and any film) in this way: to calculate the correct approximate exposure for any subject at any distance, simply divide the distance (in feet) that the subject is from the strobe, into the strobe's GN (guide number); the result is our approximate "F" stop.

For example, (presuming you're using ISO/ASA 100 film), our GN is 180, and the subject is 12 feet away, then: 180 (GN) divided by 12 (feet away from the subject) = 15, so we'd use an exposure setting of about F16. If our subject is 20 feet away, then: 180 divided by 20 = 9 which would give us an approximate F stop of about F 8 (bracketing is always a good idea, too). See? Umm, if you don't understand it, don't worry about it (it took me years to fully comprehend). Suggestion: If you're serious about improving your photography, you might consider getting a handheld flash/ambient light meter (sorry, I don't carry any at this time; if you want recommendations, just check this out).

Back up to the HS-500 description from whence you came...


Technique: Why would anyone want to dim a strobe to 1/2 its normal power?
Why would we want to dim a strobe to 1/2 power? Because in order to get great pictures, we have to be able to control the light (sound familiar?) in a number of ways. Sometimes a full power flash is too powerful for the effect we're after; other times we may want to reduce the illumination to create a different mood. In people pictures, for a head shot (that's what photographers call a picture of a person's face, often the face and shoulders), we often want part of the face highlighted, and the other part of the face in a light to medium shadow. This interplay of light and shadow is called "modeling," and is a hallmark of good photography. Anyway, as an example, a common lighting ratio for people pictures is a 1:2 (or 1:3) ratio - full illumination on one side of the face, and 1/2 that amount of light on the other side of the subject's face (we rarely want full frontal lighting, because it gives the face a flat and unappealing look, as well as other negative aspects). The 1:2 (full/half) lighting combination gives us an interesting and often flattering image, with a good ratio of light and shadow - revealing the character, and giving us depth and texture (but be sure to play around with other lighting ratios, too, for even more creativity). Whenever we have two strobes to work with, we can achieve this 1:2 ratio by moving one strobe (the one providing the shadow side lighting) twice as far away from the subject as our main light (the strobe providing the full illumination). But often things get in the way, like walls and such; not all of us have lots of room in our studios (especially living room studios :) to move our lights as far away as we like. Aha! The scientific wizards devised a most convenient solution! A variable-power strobe (like this great HS-500)! Now, instead of moving lights all over the place, all we have to do is flip a switch, and Voila! 1/2 power without any hassle at all! In some very powerful strobes, we might even find variations from full power, all the way down to 1/32 power. Another way to achieve a lighting ratio (when we only have one strobe) is to use a reflector to "bounce" some light onto the shadow side of the subject's face. You can buy a "professional" reflector for as much as $100.00 or more, but I just use a white poster board, which you can find at any art supply store for under two bucks. You don't have to spend a fortune to make great pictures, just use your equipment to its fullest extent - and use your head!
Back up to the HS-500 description from whence you came.

Specifications: HS-500 Pro Studio Monolight
 AC Input  110-120 Volt
 AC Fuse  5 Amp
 Modeling Lamp  150 watt Halogen G6.35 base (rated 1,000 hours)
 Flash Tube  Pro UV Quartz (rated 10,000 flashes) 180Watt Seconds (huh?)
 Guide No. (ISO 100)  GN 150 (45 Meters / 150 Feet) with ISO 100 film (huh?)
 Trigger  Test button / Optical Slave Sensor / PC Cord
 Slave Effective Distance  15 Meters / 50 Feet
 Sync Socket  5 ø Standard Earphone Type, 6V DC
 Diameter of Light Head  70 ø mm
 Recycling Time  1-3 Seconds
 Dimensions & Weight  250 x 85 x 155mm 0.85Kg

These units also have the ability to accept all the standard light-modifying accessories, of course.
What a great opportunity to own these brand new professional strobes!
Wondering what the reserve price is? I never hide anything from my (beloved) bidders! Just look for "Elvis" and you'll see the reserve price clearly listed; it's the same in all my reserve auctions - no secrets, no tricks!

You're getting One of these powerful HS-500 Pro Studio Strobes
 Questions, questions, questions....
How can you sell brand new photographic equipment for such low prices? What shipping and payment options do you offer? How do I know I can trust you with my hard-earned money? What's your policy on customer service? Will these pro strobes work with my camera? With my digital camera? What if my camera is old? How do I contact you? If I live in Southern California; can I pick up the equipment myself? Will you offer more photographic equipment (than you have now)? Are your products guaranteed or warranted? What if I want certain equipment, but you don't have an auction with the equipment I want? Do you accept Lay-Away payment plans? Will you ship to Canada or Europe or Asia? What if I have some technical questions? Hey! Somebody else e-mailed me after I bid on your auction(s) and told me the most terrible things, or offered me a "deal" on cheaper equipment... and many more of your questions answered - just click below!
 Answers, answers, answers....

Here's some information about the items comprising
your new studio kit: NEW! Britek SM-1250 Professional Studio Flashes


 The NEW SM-1250 Monolight

This brand new Britek SM-1250 is a great starter Monolight for the beginning professional, the pro with tight budget constraints, or the advanced amateur who is ready to bring the professional look to his or her photographs (without mortgaging the house).


Why are photogs so in love with their studios? BECAUSE (in our studios) WE CAN CONTROL THE LIGHT! And a "studio" can be a corner of any room, as long as we can CONTROL THE LIGHT.

All the basic data & information presented about the HS-500 Pro Studio Strobe (above) also pertain to the SM-1250 Pro Strobe - the only differences are:

The SM-1250 puts out 125WS of power (instead of 180WS); and

The SM-1250 has a 60 watt modeling light (instead of the 150 watt halogen on the HS-500).

Here are some pictures of the SM-1250 Pro Strobe for your consideration.



*What's a watt second?

More about the new SM-1250.....


At the great price you'll get this kit for, you could own this whole professional lighting studio package for LESS than you might pay for just one or two competing lights! (Well, probably, anyway :)

Guerrilla Photography is Coming!

Just as with the HS-500 Pro Studio Strobes, when you set these SM-1250s for 1/2 power, the modeling lights ALSO dim to 1/2 power!


As we can see from the back view, The New SM-1250 is just as well-stocked with controls as are the HS-500s (some additional controls are located on the top side of the 1250s).

The SM-1250 is also a "Monolight," meaning that all the required components are included in the one package no additional equipment is needed); just plug them in, and fire away!

As with the HS-500, we can see the SM-1250's Modeling Light Bulb (they're round, in this strobe) and the Flash Tube (the circular tube surrounding the modeling bulb). The reflector has been removed so you can see the flash tube and modeling bulb easier (but a reflector is included with every SM-1250 and HS-500 Pro Studio Strobe, of course).
Complete: Each of these SM-1250s (just like their big brothers, the HS-500 Pro Studio Strobes) comes complete with umbrella-capable reflector, sync cord, AC cord, Flash Tube, Modeling Light, built-in umbrella holder, and standard light stand connector; it's ready to plug in and fire away! Many additional accessories are also available for these units, whenever you're ready for them (e.g., snoots, barn doors, softboxes, stands, unbrellas, honeycombs, gel holders, etc.). These are brand new, 100% guaranteed, with full manufacturer's warrantee . These are NOT seconds, blemishes, or anything other than brand new, absolutely perfect, current 2001 models!

Specifications: SM-1250 Pro Studio Monolight
 AC Input  110-120 Volt
 AC Fuse  5 Amp
 Modeling Lamp  60W BA-15S BASE (rated 1,000 hours)
 Flash Tube  BC-100Y (rated 10,000 flashes) 125WS (huh?)
 Guide No. (ISO 100)  38 Meters / 125 Feet (huh?)
 Trigger  Test button / Slave / PC Cord
 Slave Effective Distance  15 Meters / 50 Feet
 Sync Socket  5 ø Standard Earphone Type, 6V DC
 Diameter of Light Head  70 ø mm
 Recycling Time  1-3 Seconds
 Dimensions & Weight  240 x 80 x 140mm 0.65Kg

Back to top --------Additional accessories are available, of course.

You're getting TWO Britek SM-1250 Professional Strobes with this kit


Q. What the heck is a "WS" and what's a "GN," and what in the world do they mean?

WS = Watt Second | GN = Guide Number

Here's a brief explanation (using, for this example, your (well, it might be yours soon:) new SM-1250 strobe, which have a power level of 125WS, and a GN of 125):

The "125WS" (or the 80WS, or 20WS, etc.) is the output power of your strobe and a watt second is equal to the electrical term "joules," a high-falutin power level. The Guide Number (GN) of these SM-1250 units is also 125 (for ASA/ISO 100 film), with a standard reflector. Often, the Watt Second power output is close to the guide number. What good is knowing the guide number? Well, the GN gives us a method of calculating exposure (for any strobe and any film) in this way: to calculate the correct approximate exposure for any subject at any distance, simply divide the distance (in feet) that the subject is from the strobe, into the strobe's GN (guide number); the result is our approximate "F" stop.

For example, (presuming you're using ISO/ASA 100 film), our GN is 125, and the subject is 12 feet away, then: 125 (GN) divided by 12 (feet away from the subject) = 10.4, so we'd use an exposure setting of just under F11. If our subject is 8 feet away, then: 125 divided by 8 = 15.6 which would give us an approximate F stop of just under 16. See? Umm, if you don't understand it, don't worry about it (it took me years to fully comprehend). Suggestion: If you're serious about improving your photography, you should consider getting a handheld flash/ambient light meter (sorry, I don't carry any at this time).

Back up to the SM-1250 description

Guerrilla Photography is Coming!
Wondering what the reserve price is? I never hide anything from my (beloved) bidders! Just look for "Elvis" and you'll see the reserve price clearly listed; it's the same in all my reserve auctions - no secrets, no tricks!

 Questions, questions, questions....
How can you sell brand new photographic equipment for such low prices? What shipping and payment options do you offer? How do I know I can trust you with my hard-earned money? What's your policy on customer service? Will these pro strobes work with my camera? WI'll they work with my digital camera? What if my camera is old? How do I contact you? If I live in Southern California; can I pick up the equipment myself? Will you offer more photographic equipment (than you have now)? Are your products guaranteed or warranted? What if I want certain equipment, but you don't have an auction with the equipment I want? Do you accept Lay-Away payment plans? Will you ship to Canada or Europe or Asia? What if I have some technical questions? Hey! Somebody else e-mailed me after I bid on your auction(s) and told me terrible things, or offered me a "deal" on cheaper equipment... these - and many more of your questions answered - just click on the "Answers" link below!
 Answers, answers, answers....


Q. What the heck is a "WS" and what's a "GN," and what in the world do they mean?

WS = Watt Second | GN = Guide Number

Here's a brief explanation (using, for this example, your (well, it might be yours soon:) new SM-1250 strobe, which have a power level of 125WS, and a GN of 125):

The "125WS" (or the 80WS, or 20WS, etc.) is the output power of your strobe and a watt second is equal to the electrical term "joules," a high-falutin power level. The Guide Number (GN) of these SM-1250 units is also 125 (for ASA/ISO 100 film), with a standard reflector. Often, the Watt Second power output is close to the guide number. What good is knowing the guide number? Well, the GN gives us a method of calculating exposure (for any strobe and any film) in this way: to calculate the correct approximate exposure for any subject at any distance, simply divide the distance (in feet) that the subject is from the strobe, into the strobe's GN (guide number); the result is our approximate "F" stop.

For example, (presuming you're using ISO/ASA 100 film), our GN is 125, and the subject is 12 feet away, then: 125 (GN) divided by 12 (feet away from the subject) = 10.4, so we'd use an exposure setting of just under F11. If our subject is 8 feet away, then: 125 divided by 8 = 15.6 which would give us an approximate F stop of just under 16. See? Umm, if you don't understand it, don't worry about it (it took me years to fully comprehend). Suggestion: If you're serious about improving your photography, you should consider getting a handheld flash/ambient light meter (sorry, I don't carry any at this time).

Back up to the SM-1250 description

Guerrilla Photography is Coming!

Here's some information about the items comprising
your new studio kit: The AS-66 Mini-Strobe Slave -Plus- Custom Accessories and Bulb Holder
AS-66 Mini-Strobe: This has got to be the cutest little Mini-Slave you've ever seen! It's great for adding a hairlight, or a fill light, or for anyplace you might want an extra spot of light! It pumps out 20WS of light, and with all it's included accessories, you'll be able to place that light exactly where you want it. Hey, this is small, but it allows us to add those extra highlights that separate the amateur images from the professional images! This is an accessory light that you'll find yourself using for just about every shot - you'll see!

 The Specs:

AS-66 Mini-Strobe Slave:
20WS Output
GN No.: 66 feet with ASA 100
Receptacle: E27 Edison Screw Base
Triggering: Test Button and Slave Sensor
Recycling Time: 4-6 seconds
Effective Slave Distance: 50 feet
WeightL 100 grams
Size: 12 x 6 x 6 CM

Accessories Included:

Custom-Fitted:
Barndoors
Honeycomb
Snoot
- Plus -
E-27S Tilt & Swivel Panning Light Holder with integral Umbrella Holder, 10 foot Power Cord, and On-Off Switch

Reality Check: But be aware, though, that this unit is NOT sufficient to light a large subject (e.g., people) all by itself. But to illuminate small items, or for a fill light, an accent light, a hairlight, a copy light, or as an additional light for all your setups, etc., this 'lil beauty is a photographer's best friend! It will come in handy for almost every shot, and will allow you to fill in those little areas where an extra highlight or a little spot of light - right where you need it -can make all the difference in your shot. The accessories included will allow you to direct the light to the specific spot or area you want. Remember, it's all in the little details!

You're getting One AS-66 Mini-Strobe (& accessories) with this kit

Here's some information about the items comprising
your new studio kit: Brand New 3.3 to 7.5 Foot Light stands



Unlike many of the items you'll find listed on eBay, these light stands are Brand New, not old, used, banged-up cast-offs that someone else is trying to get rid of. These are 100% new, perfect, and come with the manufacturer's full warantee. Consider this when making your purchasing decisions.

These fabulous light stands are truly top quality units without compromises. These Brand New Britek light stands extend to a height of 7 1/2 Feet, and fold down (fully assembled) to only 3.3 feet for easy packing and transport.

These stands have a black finish which reduces unwanted glare; three vertical sections (22mm, 19mm, 16mm), and three double-braced legs (16mm), which provide excellent stability in the studio or on location. They're topped with a standard 5/8" stud, with a 1/4" thread, type B. Sturdy as all get out, yet only weigh about 3.3 lbs. (so you can pack up a set of three stands for under 10 lbs. for location shoots - believe me, schlepping around anything heavier can give you a hernia, especially when added to all your other gear). Yet these babies can be folded up and put in the corner of your closet and take up very little space.

I've been using these same stands for over a year now, and couldn't be happier! You'll probably love 'em, too. They're sized perfectly for multiple uses: with a low height of 3.3 feet, they're great for background lighting; at their full 7.5 feet, they're perfect for lighting from above, or hairlights; and adjusting them anywhere in-between, they're perfect for subject-level lighting, whether you're photographing kids or basketball players (or things)! BTW, as stated above, you'll be buying brand new stands here, NOT my used ones (those are mine! you can't have them; I like them, and I'm gonna keep them; you go buy your own!

Reality Check: Hey, if you're rich, I'd suggest buying a set of bigger, heavier (& more expensive) stands for your pro studio setup, and another set of lightweight stands for location shoots; but my studio is in my house, and I don't have 20 foot ceilings for the 18' stands anyway, so these stands work just fine for me. 7 1/2 feet is plenty high, even for hairlights, or toplighting, etc. And they're unquestionably sturdy enough for studio work, and light enough for location work. Realize, though, that these stands, while certainly a great deal and a marvelous value, are the working photog's reliable, blue collar light stands; not the prissy luxury models. Treat them with minimal respect, and they'll see you through to old age. These light stands, like all this equipment, are brand new and, of course, they come with the manufacturer's full warrantee. Additional accessories are also available (booms, clamps, studs, swivels, adapters, ball tilt heads, etc., etc.), as your needs may dictate. These sturdy light stands are rated to hold a load of over 17 1/2 pounds (but, personally, I try to keep the load under 15 lbs when it's fully extended out to 7 1/2 feet) either way, they're likely to be able to hold darn near any lighting units you're using.

All the sections of these stands are quality tubular stock, NOT the cheapie solid ones (which are heavier and less versatile, as well as cheaper). The only "cheap" part of these stands is the price - not the quality! Bid now, while they're still in stock.

Check out my other auctions!
I usually have photo equipment, pro strobes, background systems, and other great photo stuff, etc. listed.

You're getting Two 7 1/2 Foot Light Stands with this kit

Here's some information about the items comprising
your new Starter kit: The Backlight Stand

Backlight Stand

Now here's one of the best backlight stands I've ever come across. First of all, it comes apart and folds up into a tiny little package when you're not using it. Next, it's got some really neat extras, like the additional connector on one of its legs that allows us to connect another light or accessory to it, right where we'll need it, too (it's removable, too)! And it's adjustable from a low of only 1.1 foot up to 3.3 feet. It's black, to reduce glare and interference, it has neat little rubber pads on all three of its feet, and comes with a standard light connector on top. Basically, this is the coolest backlight stand I've seen in a long time.

Specifications:
3 Section pole: 22, 19, and 16mm tubular stock
Weight: 2.9 lbs.
Attachment: 5/8" stud with 1/4" thread, type B
Base attachment: Type D


You're getting One Backlight stand (303) with this kit

Here's some information about the items comprising
your new Starter kit: The Economy Background Support Set

Great New Economy Background Support System!

This set can hold backdrops up to 9 feet Wide!
Extends to 8 1/2 feet high!


Here's a marvelous background system for an amazingly low price! For those of us who are ready to improve our photographic skills with the many and varied backgrounds now available, but who don't need (or aren't in the financial position to spring for) the more expensive and larger background packages, this economy setup fits the bill perfectly!
This system can hold backgrounds up to Nine Feet wide (it extends to 9 1/2 feet wide), and the two background stands extend up to 8 1/2 feet high, which is all the height and width you'll need for the vast majority of photographic setups. In fact, 8 1/2 feet high just might be all the height you could FIT into a home studio (how high are your ceilings?). Of course, you can use paper rolls, canvas, muslins, fabrics, or whatever your creative little heart desires (well, whatever you can figure out how to hold on a three section extendable background bar, anyway :). All in all, this is a dynamite background system for a firecracker price! Bid now! Order several at this great price.
We all know (er, well, we all should know) how a different background (also called a backdrop) can completely change the look, feel, tone, and atmosphere of a shot. That's why there are backgrounds! Hey, this isn't the forum for a photography lesson, but just as a "quckie" (no, not THAT kind of a quickie :) to give you an idea, look at the pictures below; both are the same girl. Only one has a blue background, and the other has a green backdrop. Look at her eyes. See? If you want to improve your pictures, you might consider different backgrounds. If you choose to try this, you'll need something to hold the backdrops: ergo, background stands and systems!


Yeah, yeah, I can hear the purists already complaining about the lighting differences, but I ain't trying to make art here, nor is it a "lesson" but just an imperfect example, so keep quiet and make your own pictures; if you've got a better example, send it in, OK? If not, then buy one of these great packages and make better photographs!
Here's what comes with this brand new background package:
1) Two Background stands (2 sections, 25mm, 22mm; expandable from 5.8' to 8.5')
2) One Background roll cross bar (3 sections, expandable from 3.5' to 9.5')
BONUS: I'll include with this package two TRIPLE background/backdrop crossbar holders! This means that you can UPGRADE this great single background set to a Triple Background Support set simply by adding 2 additional crossbars! This set comes with one crossbar, but you can add additional crossbars at any time to upgrade whenever your needs require (each crossbar can hold one background/backdrop). However, this is a lightweight Economy Background Support Set, so if you're planning on adding additional crossbars, avoid heavy backgrounds like canvas; use lightweight muslins instead (or order the Deluxe Background Support System, which is a heavy-duty set that can support the heavier backdrops).

Backgrounds? Tell me more...

Click ->Visit my great photographic web site! Don't miss it! <-Go!

Will these strobes work with my Digital/old/new/35mm/medium/large format camera? Most likely!
Read about it here!

Umbrella & Accessories


 WHITE/BLACK REFLECTION UMBRELLA: 44"
The White/Black umbrella is made of the new P-Satin clothes-PU bonding with high denier Satin. Their Black cover can achieve almost 100% light reflection rate and provide soft almost shadowless light, which is suitable for indirect and diffusive lighting. A wonderful method of softening the light.
Technique: Photographers use these umbrellas to diffuse and soften light; in portraits, for example, this soft lighting very effectively hides many of the lines and wrinkles on the faces of our victims (umm, our "subjects" :), making them look younger and more vital. It's also great for photographing highly reflective surfaces, such as jewelry, glass, and chrome (it avoids the bright reflections that mess up our pictures). But don't let our clients know our little secrets, just accept their appreciation (along with your quickly-escalating fees), and let them believe it was your phenomenal photographic skill that made them (or their products) look so damn good! Look, you're spending a lot of time and money acquiring the equipment, and learning the skills of the photographic arts; you're becoming a skilled professional; your work is valuable as well as beautiful. Don't price yourself out of the market, certainly, but don't sell yourself cheap, either.

 Check out my great Photographic web site HERE!

Point of Information: BTW (btw means "by the way" for any "newbies" paying us a visit), a "Reflection" umbrella is one that reflects the strobe's light back onto the subject, and thereby softens and diffuses the light. This technique is often used in portraits, delicate items, and for photographing reflective surfaces, and performs many beneficial services for all us hard-working, and under-appreciated photographic artists. Keep it a secret from others, though, and let them think we get our beautiful images through some sort of secret and esoteric magic, passed down through the centuries, from master to disciple. It helps increase our value ;-) - and please don't send me any e-mail explaining that photography hasn't been around for centuries, I know that. Duh.

 3614 6
 H70- 150mm 6" Umbrella Reflector
Used alone for about 60º coverage, or with barn doors to control lighting spread, or with an umbrella to create soft and diffuse lighting. This custom reflector is designed with a special "slot" in it to allow for the use of an umbrella, without the need for a special umbrella holder accessory! A unique innovation! This is usually the reflector that comes with the Britek SM-1250 Strobes, since they have an integral umbrella holder built in to the strobe's light stand connector. You get Three of these reflectors with this package.

3615 Snoot 

H70MM Snoot

The Snoot provides a 30º concentrated light source for spot lighting or dramatic accents. Often used to "spotlight" a product, or a specific area of a photograph; also used for hairlights in people pictures. One of the photographer's "must have" accessories (the Snoot also acts as a holder for the Medium Honeycomb, below).

3333 Medium Honeycomb
 Medium Honeycomb
This unit attaches to the end of the Snoot, above, and restricts the light beam to 15º as well as softening the light. Often used for hairlights and accent lights, as well as many other uses. Another one of the photographer's "must have" accessories.

Here's a great little accessory that all photographers always need more of: a panning light head holder with built-in umbrella holder! It's hard to wax philosophic about a photographic accessory, but anyone who's ever worked with lights knows that these little tools are absolutely indispensable. For example, even a super-duper, antique, $100,000.00 table lamp isn't going to do anyone much good without a light bulb that works. And this little baby works, and keeps on working. You'll need one of these for every standard e-27 Edison base strobe (or continuous light) you'll ever work with (the E-27 is the standard household light socket size, so you can use "regular" lights with it too, if need be). Plus, this little baby has an integral umbrella holder, which saves you from having to buy an additional umbrella adapter, whenever you might want to "bounce" the light off of (or through) an umbrella. ALSO the bulb holder is an integral part of an amazingly versatile clamp! With this little accessory, you can place your E-27 base strobes (like the AS-66 in this kit) anywhere your photographically demanding heart desires! Clamp them onto a light stand, or a chair, or a desk, or a ladder, or darn near anything else that may be handy! These little units will make your life so much easier (put that light anywhere you want!), that you'll be amazed how you ever got by without them before this! This great unit is used for your AS-66 Mini-Strobe, and consequently you won't need a separate light stand for the AS-66 Mini-Strobe, because this clamp holder will allow you to place the AS-66 anywhere you want!

Specifications:
Single standard E-27 bulb socket
On / Off switch
10 foot power cord
Versatile "anywhere" Clamp

You're also getting a great new 6' 8" X 9' Raw Muslin Background / Backdrop to start you off! This is a great starter background for those of us who are just begining to realize the importance of backdrops to good photography. Raw muslin is a lovely cream color, and has been used in its raw state as a favorite of photographers for years. Please be aware that this is an unfinished muslin; there isn't a sewn loop or hemmed edges (but we never show the edges in our pictures, anyway). It's easy to make your own loop with safety pins (or sew one if you're handy; a loop is handy if you have a background support set, to insert the crossbar through). Also, you can easily dye and/or paint raw muslin to create beautiful custom backgrounds that sell for up to $450.00! What IS a "Muslin" you may ask? Muslin is a type of cotton material that is light weight, easily draped, stretched, folded, or rolled. It's easy to paint and dye, and relatively inexpensive. Be careful of the hucksters who have been selling low-quality cotton-blended so-called "muslins" online recently. Demand 100% cotton, non-recycled, top-quality textile muslins when shopping for more. But if your budget won't stretch to buy additional backgrounds, you can use a bed sheet (iron it first, so all the wrinkles are gone), or a wall, or buy some cheap material at a local fabric store. Avoid prints and designs in your backgrounds; they're too "busy" and detract from the picture. Set your victim (um, your "subject," that is:) at least 4-6 feet in front of your background (whatever it may be), and place your background strobe behind your subject (hidden from the camera's view, of course). When you get a little more involved in photography, you might consider acquiring additional backdrops; but no need to spend a fortune to get great pictures, just be imaginative and creative with the equipment you have.

Read some more about backgrounds....

Technique: The most important secret of good photography is the thought the photographer puts into a picture before s/he even considers what type of film to use! The point here is that we have to train ourselves to think before we shoot! What color is our subject? How can we make that color (or shade) stand out? What do we want to emphasize in our picture? How will we direct our viewers' eye to our subject? How will we separate our main subject from any other distracting elements in our photograph? At which angle should we shoot? Is it important to establish place in this photograph (i.e., is it important for the viewer to know where our subject is? Or do we want to hide the location)? If we're shooting people, what is our victim's least appealing feature (i.e., a big nose, a bald head, pot belly, etc.:)? How can we hide or de-emphasize it? What's our subject's most appealing feature (i.e., eyes, profile, boobs - oops! sorry, I couldn't resist:) ? How can we emphasize the attractive aspects of our subjects? THINK before you shoot! MAKE a photograph - don't "take" a snapshot! Learn to "design" your picture before you pick up your camera! Take a piece of paper and a pencil, and sketch out what you want in the picture you're considering; this will be a great help in the beginning, and after a few weeks or months of doing this, you'll start to do it all in your head, and won't need the pencil and paper any more. I promise you that a good photograph doesn't require the genius of an Einstein - it just takes a little thought and preparation! You don't have to study photography for years, just train yourself to think before you shoot! Don't try to plan out 100 images all at once; think about one or two, and then use 10 rolls of film on just those two ideas. Shoot from different angles; shoot from different heights; shoot with different lighting angles; shoot with color film; shoot with black and white film; think, then shoot! Pretty soon, you'll wake up one day and realize that you've changed; you'll look at the world differently; you'll "see" things most people never even notice; one day, you'll realize that you've become something special; something different, but different in a most amazing and wonderful way; you will have become - a photographer!

Believe it or not, folks,
--> The Reserve on this entire kit is Less than $679.95! <--
Back to top of page ----What a great opportunity to own this marvelous pro portrait studio! You could own you this entire kit for less than you'd pay for a single strobe from a competing manufacturer!
Thank you for viewing this package, best of luck with your photography, and please accept my most sincere wishes for you and yours to enjoy a wonderful, prosperous, photographically creative, and joyful new millennium!

"Ladies and gentlemen, Elvis has left the building...."

Well, that's it for the goodies, folks. Now for the details:

FOUR Strobe Portrait AND Background Support Package II
Instant Purchase Link

4 Strobe & Background Pkg. II Kit #341
On Sale for only: $679.95
Shipping (UPS Ground): $54.90*

Click the PayPal link to go to a secure site where you can charge your new equipment to your MasterCard, Visa, or pay with an Electronic Check.

Back to top of page

My PayPal account is in my company name: Adam Publishing Co.
*IMPORTANT: If your shipping address is anywhere other than in the 48 contiguous U.S. States, the shipping charges above will need to be adjusted (if you're outside of the original 48 States, please e-mail me with your shipping address and the kit number for an updated shipping quote). Thank you. Foreign shipping alert.
Note: If you're not a fan of PayPal (some folks don't like it), and would rather use Billpoint, then just send me an e-mail message with the kit number explaining that you'd prefer to use Billpoint to pay by credit card, and I'll send you an e-mail invoice from Billpoint (the e-mail will contain all the instructions and links to a secure site where you can pay with your credit card).

If you're not already a verified PayPal member, Billpoint will be quicker and easier (since they don't require bank information or waiting periods). Of course, snail mail payments are also welcome. See all your payment and shipping options here.
Back to top of page


Shipping & handling is only $54.90 for UPS ground delivery (in continental 48 USA States). Other shipping methods available (UPS 3 Day, Next Day Air or Fed Express, etc.), buyer chooses. Payments by credit cards, cashier's checks and money orders shipped immediately; personal/business checks are welcome, but will be held until check clears. Thank you for taking the time to view this auction, may you have best of luck, and happy bidding!! Will I ship to Canada/Overseas? Yes, but please read this BEFORE bidding.
[Q: How can you sell brand new equipment for such low prices? ]
BTW, if you should ever outgrow this strobe kit (unlikely, because photographers can always use all the lights and light stands we can get; I know many pros who use 6 or 7 or more strobes just for head shots!), but if you do, you can either trade it in on the new ones, or sell it (maybe even right here on eBay) - and you might even be able to sell it for as much as (or maybe even more than) you paid for it! So unlike that great computer we're all using right now (which will be almost worthless, for resale purposes, in 6 months or a year), this light and photographic equipment will retain a good portion (if not all) of its value if or when you're ready to move on.
Guaranteed! This brand new, top quality, kit equals or surpasses those with retail list prices far higher! Go ahead, check with your local photo store(s). Bid responsibly, but with confidence. These items are 100% guaranteed to be brand new, with manufacturer's warantee! You may return this package (in new and undamaged condition, of course) within 7 days of receipt for a full refund (excluding shipping), if it is not exactly as described above in every way. Trust me, you'll love it! For literally hundreds of more impartial and objective points of view, check my feedback; and see what every other customer has had to say about this kit (as well as every other item I've ever sold), and about my service, and my commitment to 100% customer satisfaction! Hey, us struggling photogs have to stick together, y'know (and all of us are always struggling - to make that elusive "perfect" photograph, huh?). Thanks again for viewing this auction; feel free to e-mail any questions to me. For answers to common questions, read my FAQ.

 I accept Billpoint!

 I accept X.com's PayPal. I'm VERIFIED! Buyer Protection is guaranteed. CLICK TO VERIFY
As an eBay PowerSeller, a Billpoint PreferredSeller, and a PayPal "Verified" premier business seller, my customers are safer, happier, and better off all around! :-) If you're a PayPal user, you no longer have that darn $1-2,000.00 limit every 6 months on your purchases when you order from me (unlimited credit)! If you're a Billpoint user (your credit is unlimited again), you will NOT have that annoying $500.00 per auction limit on your purchases when you buy from me, and even if you're new to Billpoint, there's NO waiting or verification delays whatsoever, so your order can be shipped immediately (and you can use Billpoint to pay for any purchase from me - unlike the limits you have with ordinary sellers)! You're ALWAYS better off buying from PhotoSource3! Plus, your purchase is doubly guaranteed against fraud! Read more about your safeguards...
NOTE: You're welcome to pay with PayPal, BidPay, or Billpoint by credit card or electronic check. BidPay and Billpoint will allow folks from countries other than the USA to use credit cards, too. For those not technologically inclined, snail mail (i.e. the post office) will also work just fine. See all your payment and shipping options here. I hope this helps provide enough alternatives for you (if not, feel free to send in your suggestions; e-mail me here). One of the differences between me and the big guys, is the fact that I'm always willing to do whatever I possibly can to help out my customers in whatever ways are needed. Here's my philosophy on "Customer Service." Will I ship to Canada and other countries? Sure I will! But read this before placing an out-of-the-USA bid. Basically, if you're willing to pay the shipping charges, then I'll be happy to ship to you.

P.S. Check out my great Photographic web site HERE!


Check out my other auctions! You'll be glad you did!

Feel free to contact me with any questions: PhotoSource3@pss3.com - or - wryter@pacbell.net

 Questions, questions, questions....
How can you sell brand new photographic equipment for such low prices? What shipping and payment options do you offer? How do I know I can trust you with my hard-earned money? What's your policy on customer service? Will these pro strobes work with my camera? Will they work with my digital camera? What if my camera is old? How do I contact you? If I live in Southern California; can I pick up the equipment myself? Will you offer more photographic equipment (than you have now)? Are your products guaranteed or warranted? What if I want certain equipment, but you don't have an auction with the equipment I want? Do you accept Lay-Away payment plans? Will you ship to Canada or Europe or Asia? What if I have some technical questions? Hey! Somebody else e-mailed me after I bid on your auction(s) and offered me a "deal" on cheaper equipment... and many more of your questions answered - just click below!
 Answers, answers, answers....

Shop with confidence!
Bid with confidence!
Buy with confidence!
From a Profoundly Proud
eBay PowerSeller!

This PowerSeller proudly provides a plethora of perfect premium photographic products - PLUS - pure, powerful, and peerless customer service!

[Ain't that great alliteration? Huh? Well, ain't it?]

--> Check out all my other wonderful auctions!

Check out my great Photographic web site HERE!


 Here's a GREAT New 4 Strobe Portrait & Background Package!
All BRAND NEW!

Here's what you get:

1) One Britek HS-500 Professional Strobe 180WS! <- New! (Show Me)
2) Two Britek SM-1250 125WS Professional Strobes (Show Me)
3) One AS-66 20WS Mini Strobe with Custom Barndoors, Snoot, & Honeycomb Set (Show Me)
4) Two 7 1/2 Foot Light Stands (Show Me)
5) One BackLight Stand (Show Me)
6) One Economy Background Support Set (Show Me)
7) One 44" Black / White Umbrella (Show Me)
8) Three Unique Umbrella Reflectors (Show Me)
9) One H70MM Snoot (Show Me)
10) One Medium Honeycomb and (Show Me)
11) One Tilt & Swivel Clamp Bulb Holder (Show Me)
12) One 6' 8" x 9' Raw Muslin Background/Backdrop (Show Me)

Just scroll up or click on a "Show Me" link to jump up. (Kit #341)

Check out my great Photographic web site HERE!
This is truly a wonderful professional portrait setup! With Three powerful main master strobes (a powerful 180WS strobe plus 2 great 125WS units) to light your victims (um, your "subjects" that is:) and your background (adding the depth and separation characteristic of professional images) in the most creative manner, a great Mini-Strobe for highlights or hairlights, a huge 44" umbrella to soften the light and hide those facial lines, sags, and wrinkles (making your subjects look younger and more vital), and in addition, a background support set to hold your backgrounds (also called backdrops), plus a great raw Muslin background/backdrop to start you out, you'll have everything you'll need to start getting the fantastic pictures that will flatter and amaze your clients (or your kids, parents, friends, or relatives)!

 NEW! Instant Purchase now available (see above)

© 2001 Rmorgan/Wryter/Adam Publishing Co. All Wrights Wreserved Worldwide! So there! ;-)