NEW! Instant Purchase now available (see below)

1SK86SPP

Starter Strobe Package I - All Brand New!

Here's a GREAT New Starter Strobe Package! All BRAND NEW!

Here's what you get:

1) One New PS-300 Pro Strobe, @ 150WS (Show me)
2) One Unique Umbrella Reflector (Show Me)
3) One 6 1/2 Foot Light Stand (Show me)
4) One 32" Black / White Umbrella (Show me)

Just scroll down or click on a "Show Me" link to jump down. (Kit #99)

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Here's some information about the items comprising
your new studio kit: The NEW Britek PS-300 Professional Studio Flash

The NEW PS-300 Monolight

This brand new Britek PS-300 is a great starter Monolight for the beginning professional, the pro with tight budget constraints, or the advanced amateur who is ready to bring the professional look to his or her photographs (without mortgaging the house).

Why are photogs so in love with their studios? BECAUSE (in our studios) WE CAN CONTROL THE LIGHT! And a "studio" can be a corner of any room, as long as we can CONTROL THE LIGHT. In our studios, we can play God! We can make it daytime or evening or night; we can shoot 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. We can CREATE anything we can imagine - as long as we can CONTROL THE LIGHT!

After all, the word "photographer" itself (from Greek) actually means Light Writer, or "one who writes with light."

The term is meaningful because those of us who make photographs are slaves to light. Light is both our nemesis and our salvation (when we can control the light). Without the right types of lighting equipment, we can never progress to professional level studio pictures. Or location pictures.

Sure, we can make beautiful photos with available light... when the light's just right, at the exact time we need it, and at exact place we need it, if it's not raining, if it's not snowing, if it's not too cold, if it's not too hot, if it's not too dark, if everyone we need to make the photographs are available at the exact time the light's just right for our needs, under all the right conditions.... beginning to see now? When we can control the light, we can make the best photographs.

PhotoSpeak: BTW, did you notice, above, that I said "make" photographs, and not "take" pictures? Well, here's your first lesson in how pros speak about photography (photospeak): "Snapshooters" or "point and shooters," who don't think and plan their shots (e.g., most of us) are the ones who "take" pictures (the rank amateurs). Photographers "make" great photographs by careful thought, detailed planning, and, most of all, scrupulous attention to lighting. Before they even think about pressing that shutter, they "design" their photos carefully. Soon, with a little effort, you'll be "making" great photographs! It's not that hard, believe me. But ya gotta CONTROL THE LIGHT!

**This little beauty cranks out a full 150 watt seconds* for mamma or poppa (or both)!

Why do photographers want powerful flash equipment (strobes)? Because (both indoors and outdoors) with strobes, WE CAN CONTROL THE LIGHT! Sound familiar? Starting to get the picture, now? (sorry, I just couldn't resist ;-)

BTW, did you realize that both the photo above, and the photo on the left, were both taken against the same background? Yup. The backdrop was a pure white canvas. Why does the picture on the left look like it has a brown background? BECAUSE I COULD CONTROL THE LIGHT. Even with a cheapie old (really old) digital Fuji (no speed control, no slr, no aperture choice, etc.). How? See the "technique section below).

Hmmm... Light!

What the heck is a "Watt Second?" And what's a "GN?"

Technique:** How was I able to make the background that's in the top picture pure white, and the very same background, in the picture above, appear brown? It's easy - when you know how (it's sorta like this: What kind of question is a hard question? Answer: One you don't know the answer to. And what kind of question is an easy question? Answer: That's the one you do know the answer to). Here's how it's done: In the top picture, I lit the background with a backlight strobe (it's own strobe), so it received enough light to expose properly, and consequently it came out pure white. In the picture above, I did not light the background; I just used the tiny little built-in flash on the digital Fuji, which was enough to (barely) light the strobe I was photographing, but too weak to reach or brighten up the backdrop to white; therefore, the background underexposed and looked brownish, even though it was really a pure white canvas! Carried to an extreme, I could even make a white background look black, if I wanted to. How? By lighting the subject so brightly that the (unlit) background would underexpose (i.e., not receive enough light) so badly it would come out black. It's all in the LIGHT folks; it's all in the light! Remember, a photographer is a LIGHT writer.

At the great price you'll get this kit for, you could buy 3 or even 4 of these kits for LESS than you might pay for a single competing light! (Well, probably, anyway :) BTW, when I tested this fabulous new strobe, I discovered that it clocked in at an incredible F16 at 10 feet! Whatta powerful little sucker it is! Plus, you can set it for full OR half power.

Technique: BTW, I purposely made the photograph above to show you an example of a photographic situation that often plagues some of our amateur images. I used this technique to distort the relative size of the strobe body and the reflector. Look at the picture at the top of this auction description or the small one to the left; then look at the image above. The reflector in the image above appears larger than it really is, in relation to the body of the strobe (compare the relative sizes of the strobe and silver reflector). Why does this happen? It's called "perspective distortion" and I'll spare you the physics of the explanation, but whenever one part of an object is closer to the camera's lens than the other part of an object, the perspective is distorted (it's due to the rendering of a 3 dimensional object into a 2 dimensional image). For fun, try this: come in really close to someone's face with your camera, and with the person's nose closest to your lens, take a picture. When the print comes back, you'll see the nose looks huge (compared to the rest of the face). Of course, you can do the same with almost any object you photograph. The lesson? Beware of holding the camera too close to your subject (unless you want perspective distortion for some reason, like this example, or for fun). This most often happens when we're using wide angle lenses (since we can fit more into the frame, we sometimes bring the camera too close to our subjects), but it happens with all lenses. For portraiture, use somewhere between an 85 to 135mm lens (the short telephoto range makes most faces look better). The opposite of the perspective distortion effect is a compression of space caused with long telephoto lenses. If a subject really does have a large nose, shoot your victim with a longer telephoto lens; it will compress space, and make the nose look smaller. Just a couple more tricks up the professional photographer's sleeve. Read on, and learn more....

More about the new PS-300.....

As we can see from this top view (with the reflector removed), The PS-300 allows us to control the power level output (full or half power), and lets us choose whether or not we want to turn on the modeling light.

This is a Fabulous deal, but let's not lose sight of the reality. If you're rich, have a sugar-mommy or daddy, are a high-income pro, or if you can get financing, my advice would be to spring for something (several somethings, in fact) more powerful, more feature-rich (and a LOT more expensive). Lights are like hard disks and internet connections: no matter how big a hard disk is, and no matter how fast your net connection is, they're never big or fast enough. But if you're just starting out, or are on a budget, or are an advanced (or advancing) amateur, these little babies sure make a lot of sense. Let's face it, your portrait clients (or your mother-in-law) won't have any idea whether you paid three hundred or three thousand for each of these strobes; they'll just be impressed (let them think they cost you an arm and a leg; especially those snooty, skinny, little models - "Ya want great head shots, sweetie? It's gonna cost ya; hell, my lights are so valuable, whenever I trade one in, I gotta pay it alimony!") Umm, just some photographer humor, folks :) - it sorta grows on you as you progress in photography; you'll see.

Now lemme tell ya about another great feature on these dynamite little units that's not found on many competing strobes costing 3-5 times the price of these: when you set these units for 1/2 power, the modeling lights ALSO dim to 1/2 power! What a great feature (what's a "modeling light?" see the explanation just below this picture)! [Why, you may ask, would we want to reduce a strobe's power output? see the "technique" section, below.

As we can see from the back view, The New PS-300 is well-stocked with controls and comes with all the extras already built-in.

The PS-300 is a "Monolight," which means that all the required components are included in the one package (as opposed to other strobes which may have the flash head in one segment, and then need an additional and separate power supply in order to get it to work; at an additional cost, too). With these units, everything is included; just plug them in, and fire away!

The "ready" light goes on to let us know when the strobe is charged and ready to fire; The test button lets us fire the strobe to test its proper functioning; the sync terminal lets us control the firing of the strobe with the shutter button on our cameras; and the optical slave sensor lets us fire the strobe automatically with the flash of any other strobe or flash unit. The other controls are pretty much self-explanatory.

BTW, a "Modeling Light" is a separate, additional, light (in addition to the strobe's "Flash Tube") that's built into the strobe and throws continuous light over the same area as the strobe's flash tube will (see the picture below for a close-up). You turn on the modeling light (before your shot), so the photographer can see what the modeling will look like, as s/he adjusts the lights before he takes the shot and fires the strobe ("Modeling" is PhotoSpeak for the highlights (light areas) and shadows (dark areas) that fall upon the subject, giving it the depth and texture necessary for professional results). This great feature (modeling light) is usually only found on much more expensive lights.

This unit can be activated by the PC Cord (included, of course), the Test Button, or the Slave Sensor (which means that any other flash, even your camera's little built-in flash, can automatically fire this unit by it's light alone, so you don't even need to use a sync (PC) cord unless you want to). BTW, a "PC Cord" (Push Contact), also called a "Sync Cord" is a wire that connects the strobe to your camera, and fires the strobe when you press the camera's shutter button.
Back to top of page

	We can see the difference between the Modeling Light Bulb and the Flash Tube (the circular tube surrounding the modeling bulb) in this close-up shot of the PS-300's business end (with the reflector removed, of course). The modeling light is especially valuable to the amateur, because it let's us "see" exactly where the light will fall when the strobe flashes. This feature alone is worth at least a hundred rolls of ruined film (which you'll save by having a modeling light)! One of the major questions (and hesitations) I had when I was beginning to learn photography, was "If you use strobes, how do you know what the subject will look like, or how and where the light will illuminate the subject, if you don't have continuous lighting to judge by?" The answer was really simple: You don't. UNLESS your strobes also have MODELING LIGHTS! With modeling lights, you can see exactly where the strobe's flash will illuminate the subject, because the modeling light falls on the subject the same as the strobe's light will fall on the subject (less intensely, of course)! And this is why the pros pay lotsa money for good strobes that come with modeling lights. That's why the professional photographer's pictures look so much better than ours do: they have the right equipment for the job! They can CONTROL THE LIGHT! And now, so can you.
PhotoSpeak: What's a "Slave Sensor?" Well, if you had to use a PC Cord for every strobe, just think what a mess of tangled wires you'd have if you were using 5 or 6 or more strobes to light your subject (as many pros do)! So, science came to our rescue with slave sensors. It's a tiny little sensor built into most good strobes, that sits & waits for a short, intense burst of light. When it detects this burst of light (the flash from another strobe), it automatically sets off the flash tube in the strobe its built into. Voila! Now, with strobes that have slave sensors (often just called "slaves"), we can connect only one strobe to our cameras (with the PC or Sync cord), usually the strobe closest to our camera, and when we press the shutter button, firing the one connected strobe, that flash will automatically set off all the other strobes we may be using for that shot! Ah, ain't technology wunnerful (sic)? Even most of the little flashes built into most modern cameras can set off most strobes with slaves. A strobe that has PC socket, or both a PC Socket and a slave sensor is called a "Master" strobe; a strobe that only has a slave sensor and no PC socket (usually less expensive units) is called a "Slave." Whichever strobe you're using with a PC cord is referred to as your "master" strobe for purposes of that shot. Most of the better strobes have both PC sockets and slave sensors, so they're more versatile and useful to us (however, there are many very good slaves out there today, and you won't need all your strobes to be masters, so don't hesitate to buy some decent slaves when the time comes - and, believe me, if you stick with photography, the time will come).
Complete: Each of these PS-300s comes complete with umbrella-capable reflector, sync cord, AC cord, Flash Tube, Modeling Light, built-in umbrella holder, and standard light stand connector; it's ready to plug in and fire away! Since these strobes are A.C. units, they're ready to rock! No batteries or powerpacks or light heads or connector cords are needed; just plug 'em in, and (just like Elvis) you're ready to rock and roll. As with all quality strobes, these are capable of using many additional custom accessories, of course (e.g., snoots, barn doors, softboxes, stands, unbrellas, honeycombs, gel holders, etc.). BTW, pros use umbrellas to "bounce" the strobe's light off of (or sometimes through) to make the light softer, reduce or eliminate shadows, and "mellow-out" the picture. Softboxes (and SoftCases) and umbrellas are specifically designed for this purpose (and yes, these are able to use custom-fitted softboxes & softcases). These are brand new, 100% guaranteed, with the manufacturer's full one year warrantee . These are NOT seconds, blemishes, or anything other than brand new, absolutely perfect, current 2001 models! Just 'cause the price is great, doesn't mean these are in any way less than perfect! Questions? Requests? just e-mail any questions or requests, to me at wryter@usa.net or check out-my web site HERE.-These strobes and other photographic equipment also come with an "extra" that's not available anywhere else, at any price whatsoever: FREE photographic education, advice and training from MyPhotoHome.com (coming soon to a computer near you)! MPH Members also get FREE web space (to post your own pictures), and much, much more (when MyPhotoHome.com comes online, shortly).
Point of Information: Why, you might be asking yourself, have virtually all photographers switched to using strobes, when "regular" continuous lights (photographers call them "hot" lights) are everywhere, and it's easier for us to see how the lighting will look with them? Well, the continuous lights, like the ones in our houses (tungsten lights), or halogen (and similar) are called "hot lights" for a reason: they get hot. Really hot! And the special photographic hot lights get twice as hot as household bulbs! This tends to make certain things, like flowers, foods, animals, and those darn pesky models, wilt. Especially models. They get very, very, unhappy when they wilt. Whine, gripe, groan; you'd think a little melting makeup, and running mascara, limp hair, and sticky lipstick, and beads of sweat running down their lovely curvaceous (umm, let's say noses) was a big deal or something, the way they complain! ;-) Next, there's a little problem with the "color temperature" being way off with hot lights, so we have to use special films (3200K or 3400K) or filters, or special photographic bulbs, when using them (strobes are perfectly balanced at 5500K to simulate sunlight, so we can use all the regular daylight films we've come to love/hate over the years). You'll notice that most of your pictures taken indoors without using a flash turn out with a yellowish color cast; that's because household lights are loaded with yellow and red light. The solution is to either use special films, or special filters. But why create more problems for yourself? Using strobes eliminates all these headaches (and heat!). Also, with continuous lights, they're always shining; usually right in our subject's eyes, causing squinting and annoyance (and ugly looking pictures). With strobes, nothing is shining in their eyes, and the flash is too short to cause any of this discomfort to our beloved subjects (until AFTER the flash, when they might be chasing all those little light blips around the room:). Additionally, with strobes, we can control the light much better! We can adjust the power output with the flick of a switch. We can modify the light with umbrellas, softboxes, softcases, filters, scrims and gobos, doo-dahs, and thingamajigs, etc., etc. We can direct the light with barn doors, snoots, honeycombs, and many other accessories. In short, with strobes, we can play God with our photography; WE CAN CONTROL THE LIGHT! And we can do it 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, whenever we want, no matter what the weather is, and without regard to daylight or night. There are yet other, more esoteric, as well as mundane reasons why strobes are the preferred means of photographic lighting in the modern world, but we'll pass on those things for now. You've probably had enough information shoved down your throat already (sorry, but I can't resist trying to educate everyone about photography).
BTW, technically speaking, all professional photographic flash units, even though nearly all pros call them "strobes," are not technically strobe lights. A real stroboscope is capable of dozens (or hundreds or even thousands) of flashes per second, and many can maintain that flash rate for hours on end. Our photographic strobes would die a dozen deaths if we tried to set them off 25 or 50 times a second! However, since photographers almost always call these lights "strobes," we'll just stick with the term; but, technically..... Well, you get the idea ;-> Back to top

Technique: Why would we want to dim a strobe to 1/2 power? Because in order to get great pictures, we have to be able to control the light (sound familiar?) in a number of ways. Sometimes a full power flash is too powerful for the effect we're after; other times we may want to reduce the illumination to create a different mood. In people pictures, for a head shot (that's what photographers call a picture of a person's face, often the face and shoulders), we often want part of the face highlighted, and the other part of the face in a light to medium shadow. This interplay of light and shadow is called "modeling," and is a hallmark of good photography. Anyway, as an example, a common lighting ratio for people pictures is a 1:2 (also 1:3, 1:4, or even 1:5) ratio - full illumination on one side of the face, and 1/2 that amount of light on the other side of the subject's face (we rarely want full frontal lighting, because it gives the face a flat and unappealing look, as well as other negative aspects). The 1:2 (full/half) lighting combination can give us an interesting and often flattering image, with a good ratio of light and shadow - revealing the character, and giving us depth and texture (but be sure to play around with other lighting ratios, too, for even more creativity). Whenever we have two strobes to work with, we can achieve this 1:2 ratio by moving one strobe (the one providing the shadow side lighting) twice as far away from the subject as our main light (the strobe providing the full illumination). But often things get in the way, like walls and such; not all of us have lots of room in our studios (especially living room studios :) to move our lights as far away as we like. Aha! The scientific wizards devised a most convenient solution! A variable-power strobe (like this great PS-300)! Now, instead of moving lights all over the place, all we have to do is flip a switch, and Voila! 1/2 power without any hassle at all! In some very powerful strobes, we might even find variations from full power, all the way down to 1/32 power. Another way to achieve a lighting ratio (when we only have one strobe) is to use a reflector to "bounce" some light onto the shadow side of the subject's face. You can buy a "professional" reflector for as much as $100.00 or more, but I just use a white poster board, which you can find at any art supply store for under two bucks. You don't have to spend a fortune to make great pictures, just use your equipment to its fullest extent - and use your head!
Back up to the PS-300 description

Specifications: PS-300 Pro Studio Monolight
AC Input	110-120 Volt
AC Fuse	5 Amp
Modeling Lamp	100W Halogen (rated 1,000 hours)
Flash Tube	BC-100Y (rated 10,000 flashes) 150WS (huh?)
Guide No. (ISO 100)	GN: 45 Meters / 150 Feet (huh?)
Trigger	Test button / Slave / PC Cord
Slave Effective Distance	15 Meters / 50 Feet
Sync Socket	5 ø Standard Earphone Type, 6V DC
Diameter of Light Head	70 ø mm
Recycling Time	1-3 Seconds
Dimensions & Weight	240 x 80 x 140mm 0.65Kg
These units also have the ability to accept all the standard light-modifying accessories, of course.

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Q. What the heck is a "WS" and what's a "GN," and what in the world do they mean? .

WS = Watt Second | GN = Guide Number

Here's a brief explanation (using, for this example, your (well, it might be yours soon:) new PS-300 strobe, which have a power level of 150WS, and a GN of 150):

The "150WS" (or the 80WS, or 20WS, etc.) is the output power of your strobe and a watt second is equal to the electrical term "joules," a high-falutin power level. The Guide Number (GN) of these PS-300 units is also 150 (for ASA/ISO 100 film), with a standard reflector. Often, the Watt Second power output is close to the guide number. What good is knowing the guide number? Well, the GN gives us a method of calculating exposure (for any strobe and any film) in this way: to calculate the correct approximate exposure for any subject at any distance, simply divide the distance (in feet) that the subject is from the strobe, into the strobe's GN (guide number); the result is our approximate "F" stop.

For example, (presuming you're using ISO/ASA 100 film), our GN is 150, and the subject is 12 feet away, then: 150 (GN) divided by 12 (feet away from the subject) = 12.5, so we'd use an exposure setting of just over F11. If our subject is 8 feet away, then: 150 divided by 8 = 18.75 which would give us an approximate F stop of just over 16. See? Umm, if you don't understand it, don't worry about it (it took me years to fully comprehend). Suggestion: If you're serious about improving your photography, you should consider getting a handheld flash/ambient light meter (sorry, I don't carry any at this time).

Back up to the PS-300 description ------------------- Back to top of page

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If this isn't exactly what you're looking for in photographic equipment....

Then Check Out My Other Auctions!

Q. What the heck is a "WS" and what's a "GN," and what in the world do they mean?

WS = Watt Second | GN = Guide Number

Here's a brief explanation (using, for this example, your (well, it might be yours soon:) new SM-1250 strobe, which have a power level of 125WS, and a GN of 125):

The "125WS" (or the 80WS, or 20WS, etc.) is the output power of your strobe and a watt second is equal to the electrical term "joules," a high-falutin power level. The Guide Number (GN) of these SM-1250 units is also 125 (for ASA/ISO 100 film), with a standard reflector. Often, the Watt Second power output is close to the guide number. What good is knowing the guide number? Well, the GN gives us a method of calculating exposure (for any strobe and any film) in this way: to calculate the correct approximate exposure for any subject at any distance, simply divide the distance (in feet) that the subject is from the strobe, into the strobe's GN (guide number); the result is our approximate "F" stop.

For example, (presuming you're using ISO/ASA 100 film), our GN is 125, and the subject is 12 feet away, then: 125 (GN) divided by 12 (feet away from the subject) = 10.4, so we'd use an exposure setting of just under F11. If our subject is 8 feet away, then: 125 divided by 8 = 15.6 which would give us an approximate F stop of just under 16. See? Umm, if you don't understand it, don't worry about it (it took me years to fully comprehend). Suggestion: If you're serious about improving your photography, you should consider getting a handheld flash/ambient light meter (sorry, I don't carry any at this time).

Back up to the SM-1250 description

Brand New 2.8 to 6.5 Foot Light stand

Unlike many of the items you'll find listed on eBay, all these items are Brand New, not old, used, banged-up cast-offs that someone else is trying to get rid of. These are 100% new, perfect, and come with the manufacturer's full warantee. Consider this when making your purchasing decisions.

Top: 3/8" stud, 1/4" thread, type A.
Size: 2.8 ft to 6.5 feet; Weight: 2.4 lbs. ea.

Here's a fabulous deal on an excellent quality light stand. This Brand New Britek light stand extends to a height of 6 1/2 Feet, and folds down (fully assembled) to only 2.8 feet for easy packing and transport.

These stands have a black finish which reduces unwanted glare; three vertical sections (19mm, 16mm, 13mm), and three double-braced legs (16mm), which provide excellent stability in the studio or on location. They're topped with a standard 3/8" stud with 1/4" thread, type A. Sturdy as all get out, yet only weigh about 3 lbs. (so you can pack up a set of three stands for under 10 lbs. for location shoots - believe me, schlepping around anything heavier can give you a hernia, especially when added to all your other gear). Yet these babies can be folded up and put in the corner of your closet and take up very little space.

I've been using these same stands for over 3 years now, and couldn't be happier! You'll probably love 'em, too. They're sized perfectly for multiple uses: with a low height of under 3 feet, they're great for background lighting; at their full 6.5 feet, they're perfect for lighting standing subjects, lighting from above for kids or sitting subjects, or even hairlights; and adjusting them anywhere in-between, they're perfect for subject-level lighting, whether you're photographing kids or adults (or things)! BTW, as stated above, you'll be buying brand new stands here, NOT my used ones (those are mine! you can't have them; I like them, and I'm gonna keep them; you go buy your own! (hey, at this great price, buy several. :).

Reality Check: Hey, if you're rich, I'd suggest buying a set of bigger, heavier (& more expensive) stands for your pro studio setup, and another set of lightweight stands for location shoots; but my studio is in my house, and I don't have 20 foot ceilings for the 15' stands anyway, so these stands work just fine for me. 6.5 feet is plenty high for most uses, and we have larger stands should you need more height. And they're sturdy enough for studio work, and light enough for location work. Realize, though, that these stands, while certainly a great deal and a marvelous value, are the working photog's blue collar equipment. Treat them with minimal respect, and they'll see you through to old age; but if you're looking for the Hope Diamond of light stands, go buy something else. This sturdy light stand is rated to hold a load of 10 pounds (but, personally, I try to keep the load under 9 lbs when it's fully extended) either way, it's likely to be able to hold darn near any moderate-size lighting unit you're using. Of course, there are bigger and heavier stands, too (just check my other auctions for the heavier-duty light stands).

All the sections of these stands are quality tubular stock, NOT the cheapie solid ones (which are heavier and less versatile, as well as cheaper). The only "cheap" part of these stands is the price - not the quality! Bid now, while they're still in stock.

You're getting one Britek 6 1/2 Foot Light stand (305) with this kit

Umbrella & Accessories

	WHITE/BLACK REFLECTION UMBRELLA: 32" The White/Black umbrella is made of the new P-Satin clothes-PU bonding with high denier Satin. Their Black cover can achieve almost 100% light reflection rate and provide soft almost shadowless light, which is suitable for indirect and diffusive lighting. A wonderful method of softening the light. Technique: Photographers use these umbrellas to diffuse and soften light; in portraits, for example, this soft lighting very effectively hides many of the lines and wrinkles on the faces of our victims (umm, our "subjects" :), making them look younger and more vital. It's also great for photographing highly reflective surfaces, such as jewelry, glass, and chrome (it avoids the bright reflections that mess up our pictures). But don't let our clients know our little secrets, just accept their appreciation (along with your quickly-escalating fees), and let them believe it was your phenomenal photographic skill that made them (or their products) look so damn good! Look, you're spending a lot of time and money acquiring the equipment, and learning the skills of the photographic arts; you're becoming a skilled professional; your work is valuable as well as beautiful. Don't price yourself out of the market, certainly, but don't sell yourself cheap, either.
	Point of Information: BTW (btw means "by the way" for any "newbies" paying us a visit), a "Reflection" umbrella is one that reflects the strobe's light back onto the subject, and thereby softens and diffuses the light. This technique is often used in portraits, delicate items, and for photographing reflective surfaces, and performs many beneficial services for all us hard-working, and under-appreciated photographic artists. Keep it a secret from others, though, and let them think we get our beautiful images through some sort of secret and esoteric magic, passed down through the centuries, from master to disciple. It helps increase our value ;-) - and please don't send me any e-mail explaining that photography hasn't been around for centuries, I know that. Duh. [Actually, photography has been here in one form or another for about 150 years]
	H70- 150mm 7" Umbrella Reflector Used alone for about 60º coverage, or with barn doors to control lighting spread, or with an umbrella to create soft and diffuse lighting. This custom reflector is designed with a special "slot" in it to allow for the use of an umbrella, without the need for a special umbrella holder accessory! A unique innovation! This is usually the reflector that comes with the Britek SM-1250 Strobes, since they have an integral umbrella holder built in to the strobe's light stand connector.
You will receive One of each of the items above with this kit.
Technique: The most important "secret" of good photography is the thought the photographer puts into a picture before s/he even considers what type of film to use! The point here is that we have to train ourselves to think before we shoot! What color is our subject? How can we make that color (or shade) stand out? What do we want to emphasize in our picture? How will we direct our viewers' eye to our subject? How will we separate our main subject from any other distracting elements in our photograph? At which angle should we shoot? Is it important to establish place in this photograph (i.e., is it important for the viewer to know where our subject is? Or do we want to hide the location)? If we're shooting people, what is our victim's least appealing feature (i.e., a big nose, a bald head, pot belly, etc.:)? How can we hide or de-emphasize it? What's our subject's most appealing feature (i.e., eyes, profile, boobs - oops! sorry, I couldn't resist:) ? How can we emphasize the attractive aspects of our subjects? THINK before you shoot! MAKE a photograph - don't "take" a snapshot! Learn to "design" your picture before you pick up your camera! Take a piece of paper and a pencil, and sketch out what you want in the picture you're considering; this will be a great help in the beginning, and after a few weeks or months of doing this, you'll start to do it all in your head, and won't need the pencil and paper any more. I promise you that a good photograph doesn't require the genius of an Einstein - it just takes a little thought and preparation! You don't have to study photography for years, just train yourself to think before you shoot! Don't try to plan out 100 images all at once; think about one or two, and then use 10 rolls of film on just those two ideas. Shoot from different angles; shoot from different heights; shoot with different lighting angles; shoot with color film; shoot with black and white film; think, then shoot! Pretty soon, you'll wake up one day and realize that you've changed; you'll look at the world differently; you'll "see" things most people never even notice; one day, you'll realize that you've become something special; something different, but different in a most amazing and wonderful way; you will have become - a photographer!
Options: Questions? Requests? Just e-mail me if anything is unclear or if you have any requests. I'm here to help. You can see many of the photographic items I list on eBay HERE!
Unbelievable as it may be, this great kit is only $189.95! (Similar kits from competing manufacturers sell for double, triple, and sometimes even more!)
You could end up owning this great professional photographic lighting package for LESS than half of what you'd pay for just one single strobe from a competing manufacturer or photo supplier! [How can you sell brand new equipment for such low prices?] Back to top of page
Check out my great Photographic web site HERE!

"Ladies and Gentlemen, Elvis has left the building...."
That's it for the goodies, folks; now for the details (below):

Starter Strobe Package I - Instant Purchase Link
Starter Strobe Package I Kit #99 On Sale for only: $189.95 Shipping (UPS Ground): $28.55* Click the PayPal link to go to a secure site where you can charge your new equipment to your MasterCard, Visa, American Express or Discover card. Back to top of page	My PayPal account is in my company name: Adam Publishing Co.
*IMPORTANT: If your shipping address is anywhere other than in the 48 contiguous U.S. States, the shipping charges above will need to be adjusted (if you're outside of the original 48 States, please e-mail me with your shipping address and the kit number for an updated shipping quote). Thank you. Foreign shipping alert.
Note: If you're not a fan of PayPal (some folks don't like it), and would rather use Billpoint, then just send me an e-mail message with the kit number explaining that you'd prefer to use Billpoint to pay by credit card, and I'll send you an e-mail invoice from Billpoint (the e-mail will contain all the instructions and links to a secure site where you can pay with your credit card). If you're not already a verified PayPal member, Billpoint will be quicker and easier (since they don't require bank information or waiting periods). Of course, snail mail payments are also welcome. See all your payment and shipping options here. Back to top of page

If you're having problems placing an order with the PayPal link above, here are a couple of workarounds you might try:

1) If you want to use PayPal to order this item (using a Visa, Mastercard, American Express, or Discover card), and are already a PayPal member, simply log in to your PayPal account, click on the "Send Money" tab, and send the payment to my e-mail address: PhotoSource3@pss3.com. My PayPal account is in my company name of Adam Publishing Co.

If you do not already have a PayPal account, simply follow this link to sign up immediately, and click the " If you have never paid through PayPal" button, and follow the directions.

2) Alternatively, I can have Billpoint send you an e-mail invoice, with a link to a secure page where you can enter your credit card numbers (just let me know if you want to use Billpoint, and I'll have the e-mail sent to you). With Billpoint there's no waiting periods, no memberships to join, and no bank account information required; simply enter your credit card numbers and your order is done! You're also welcome to pay by snail mail; you can see most of your payment and shipping choices HERE

Or, you can also use my online order form.

Remember, though, if you want to use Billpoint, e-mail me and let me know so I can have the request for payment sent out to you. Please accept my most sincere apologies for any difficulties you might have experienced; I'm working on fixing it now. Thanks again for your time and interest; It is most sincerely appreciated.

Shipping & handling is only $28.55 for UPS ground delivery (in continental USA)! Other shipping methods available (UPS 3 Day, Next Day Air or Fed Express, etc.), buyer chooses. Just e-mail me if you want a shipping quote. Payments by credit cards, cashier's checks and money orders shipped immediately; personal/business checks are welcome, but will be held until check clears. Thank you for taking the time to view this auction, may you have best of luck, and happy bidding!! You may add multiple units and/or accessories, which can be shipped together for savings.

Oh, BTW, if you should ever outgrow this strobe kit (unlikely, because photographers can always use all the lights and light stands we can get; I know many pros who use 6 or 7 or more strobes just for head shots!), but if you do, you can either trade it in on the new ones, or sell it (maybe even right here on eBay) - and you might even be able to sell it for as much as (or maybe even more than) you paid for it! So unlike that great computer we're all using right now (which will be almost worthless, for resale purposes, in 6 months or a year), this light and photographic equipment will retain a good portion (if not all) of its value if or when you're ready to move on.

Guaranteed! This brand new, top quality, kit equals or surpasses those with retail list prices far higher! Go ahead, check with your local photo store(s). Bid responsibly, but with confidence. These items are 100% guaranteed to be brand new, with manufacturer's full one year warantee! You may return this package (in new and undamaged condition, of course) within 7 days of receipt for a full refund (excluding shipping and a manufacturer-imposed 20% restocking fee (why?), if it is not exactly as described above in every way. Trust me, you'll love it! If you'd like to review way over a THOUSAND more impartial and objective opinions about this equipment, check my feedback and see what every other customer has had to say about this package (as well as every other item I've ever sold), and about my service, and my commitment to 100% customer satisfaction! Hey, us struggling photogs have to stick together, y'know (and all of us are always struggling - to make that elusive "perfect" photograph, huh?). Thanks again for viewing this description; feel free to e-mail any questions to me, after reading my FAQ. and Technical Questions pages.

As an eBay PowerSeller, a Billpoint PreferredSeller, and a PayPal "Verified" premier business seller, my customers are safer, happier, and better off all around! :-) If you're a PayPal user, you no longer have that darn $1-2,000.00 limit every 6 months on your purchases when you order from me (unlimited credit)! If you're a Billpoint user (your credit is unlimited again), you will NOT have that annoying $500.00 per auction limit on your purchases when you buy from me, and even if you're new to Billpoint, there's NO waiting or verification delays whatsoever, so your order can be shipped immediately (and you can use Billpoint to pay for any purchase from me - unlike the limits you have with ordinary sellers)! You're ALWAYS better off buying from PhotoSource3! Plus, your purchase is doubly guaranteed against fraud! Read more about your safeguards...

NOTE: You're welcome to pay with PayPal, BidPay, or Billpoint by credit card or electronic check. BidPay and Billpoint will allow folks from countries other than the USA to use credit cards, too. For those not technologically inclined, snail mail (i.e. the post office) will also work just fine. I hope this helps provide enough alternatives for you (if not, feel free to send in your suggestions; e-mail me here). One of the differences between me and the big guys, is the fact that I'm always willing to do whatever I possibly can to help out my customers in whatever ways are needed. Here's my philosophy on "Customer Service." Will I ship to Canada and other countries? Sure I will! But read this before placing an out-of-the-USA bid. Basically, if you're willing to pay the shipping charges, then I'll be happy to ship to you. But don't say I didn't warn you that the shipping charges for foreign countries will be substantially higher than domestic rates. For answers to common questions, read my FAQ.

P.S. Check out my great Photographic web site HERE!

Check out my other auctions!

Note: Although this rarely happens, sometimes item numbers or minor appearance differences may change, or new models replace older ones, as manufacturers alter, or update equipment, etc.; items are subject to change (but any changes or replacements will be with items of equal or greater capabilities. Being human, sometimes a typographical error might creep into the descriptions; please forgive any mistakes, and please rely on the large listing of the package contents at the top of this description, and repeated again down at the bottom (just to be sure:), for the final word on what this package includes. Thanks for understanding.

Questions, questions, questions....

How can you sell brand new photographic equipment for such low prices? What shipping and payment options do you offer? How do I know I can trust you with my hard-earned money? What's your policy on customer service? Will these pro strobes work with my camera? With my digital camera? What if my camera is old? how do I contact you? I live in Southern California; can I pick up the equipment myself? Will you offer more photographic equipment (than you have now)? Are your products guaranteed or warranted in any way? What if I want certain equipment, but you don't have an auction with the equipment I want? Do you accept Lay-Away payment plans? Will you ship to Canada or Europe or Asia? Have some technical Questions? Hey! Somebody else e-mailed me after I bid on your auction(s) and offered me a "deal" on similar equipment... and many more of your questions answered - just click below!

Answers, answers, answers....

	Shop with confidence! Bid with confidence! Buy with confidence! From a Profoundly Proud eBay PowerSeller! This PowerSeller proudly provides a plethora of perfect premium photographic products - PLUS - pure, powerful, and peerless customer service! [Ain't that great alliteration? Huh? Well, ain't it?]

Check out my great Photographic web site HERE!
--> Check out all my other wonderful auctions!

**Wanna see the ultimate eBay Photographic auctions? Go Look!

Here's a GREAT New Starter Strobe Package! All BRAND NEW!

Here's what you get:

1) One Britek PS-300 Pro Strobe 150WS Professional Strobe (Show me)
2) One Unique Umbrella Reflector (Show Me)
3) One 6 1/2 Foot Light Stand (Show me)
4) One 32" Black / Silver Umbrella (Show me)

Just scroll up or click on a "Show Me" link to jump up. (Kit #99)

Check out my great Photographic web site HERE!**

NEW! Instant Purchase now available (see below)

NEW! Instant Purchase now available (see below)

Starter Strobe Package I - All Brand New!

Here's a GREAT New Starter Strobe Package! All BRAND NEW!

More about the new PS-300.....

Specifications: PS-300 Pro Studio Monolight

Umbrella & Accessories

Here's a GREAT New Starter Strobe Package! All BRAND NEW!