NEW! Instant Purchase now available (see below)

K103

Starter Strobe / Flash Package II - All Brand New!
Strobe, Light Stand, Umbrella, Snoot, and Honeycomb

Here's a GREAT New Starter Strobe Package! All BRAND NEW!

Here's what you get:

1) One Britek StudioMate-1250 125WS Professional Strobe (Show me)
2) One Britek 6 1/2 Foot Light Stand (Show Me)
3) One 32" Black / White Umbrella (Show Me)
4) One H70MM Snoot and (Show Me)
5) One Medium Honeycomb (Show Me)

NOTE: The SM-1250 Pro Strobe has been discontinued, and is replaced with the new PS-300 Pro Strobe (which is more powerful - and more expensive - than the SM-1250 Strobes). Consequently, the SM-1250 Strobe(s) in this package will be automatically replaced with the PS-300 Pro Strobe(s) at no additional cost. See the PS-300s here.

Just scroll down or click on a "Show Me" link to jump down. (Kit #103) sale price

The NEW Britek SM-1250 Professional Studio Flash

The NEW SM-1250 Monolight

This brand new Britek SM-1250 is a great starter Monolight for the beginning professional, the pro with tight budget constraints, or the advanced amateur who is ready to bring the professional look to his or her photographs (without mortgaging the house).

Why are photogs so in love with their studios? BECAUSE (in our studios) WE CAN CONTROL THE LIGHT! And a "studio" can be a corner of any room, as long as we can CONTROL THE LIGHT. In our studios, we can play God! We can make it daytime or evening or night; we can shoot 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. We can CREATE anything we can imagine - as long as we can CONTROL THE LIGHT!

After all, the word "photographer" itself (from Greek) actually means Light Writer, or "one who writes with light."

The term is meaningful because those of us who make photographs are slaves to light. Light is both our nemesis and our salvation (when we can control the light). Without the right types of lighting equipment, we can never progress to professional level studio pictures. Or location pictures.

Sure, we can make beautiful photos with available light... when the light's just right, at the exact time we need it, and at exact place we need it, if it's not raining, if it's not snowing, if it's not too cold, if it's not too hot, if it's not too dark, if everyone we need to make the pictures are available at the exact time the light's just right for our needs, under all the right conditions.... beginning to see now? When we can control the light, we can make the best photographs.

PhotoSpeak: BTW, did you notice, above, that I said "make" photographs, and not "take" pictures? Well, here's your first lesson in how pros speak about photography (photospeak): "Snapshooters" or "point and shooters," who don't think and plan their shots (e.g., most of us) are the ones who "take" pictures (the rank amateurs). Photographers "make" great photographs by careful thought, detailed planning, and, most of all, scrupulous attention to lighting. Before they even think about pressing that shutter, they "design" their photos carefully. Soon, with a little effort, you'll be "making" great photographs! It's not that hard, believe me. But ya gotta CONTROL THE LIGHT!

**This little beauty cranks out a full 125 watt seconds* for mamma or poppa (or both)!

Why do photographers want powerful flash equipment (strobes)? Because (both indoors and outdoors) with strobes, WE CAN CONTROL THE LIGHT! Sound familiar? Starting to get the picture, now? (sorry, I just couldn't resist ;-)

BTW, did you realize that both the photo above, and the photo on the left, were both taken against the same background? Yup. The backdrop was a pure white canvas. Why does the picture on the left look like it has a brown background? BECAUSE I COULD CONTROL THE LIGHT. Even with a cheapie old (really old) digital Fuji (no speed control, no slr, no aperture choice, etc.).

Hmmm... Light!**

*What the heck is a "WS" and a "GN?"

Technique: How was I able to make the background in the top picture pure white, and in the picture above brown? It's easy - when you know how (it's sorta like this: What kind of question is a hard question? Answer: One you don't know the answer to. And what kind of question is an easy question? Answer: That's the one you do know the answer to). Here's how it's done: In the top picture, I lit the background with a strobe, so it came out pure white. In the picture above, I did not light the background; I just used the tiny little built-in flash on the digital Fuji, which was enough to (barely) light the strobe I was photographing, but too weak to reach or brighten up the backdrop to white; therefore, the background underexposed and looked brownish, even though it was really a pure white canvas! Carried to an extreme, I could even make a white background look black, if I wanted to. How? By lighting the subject so brightly that the (unlit) background would underexpose so badly it would come out black. It's all in the LIGHT folks; it's all in the light!

Questions, questions, questions....

How can you sell brand new photographic equipment for such low prices? What shipping and payment options do you offer? How do I know I can trust you with my hard-earned money? What's your policy on customer service? Will these pro strobes work with my camera? With my digital camera? What if my camera is old? How do I contact you? If I live in Southern California; can I pick up the equipment myself? Will you offer more photographic equipment (than you have now)? Are your products guaranteed or warranted? What if I want certain equipment, but you don't have an auction with the equipment I want? Do you accept Lay-Away payment plans? Will you ship to Canada or Europe or Asia? What if I have some technical questions? Hey! Somebody else e-mailed me after I bid on your auction(s) and told me terrible things, or offered me a great "deal" on cheaper equipment... and many more of your questions answered - just click below!

Answers, answers, answers....

At the great price you'll get this kit for, you could buy 2 or even 3 of them for LESS than you might pay for a single competing light! (Well, probably, anyway :)

More about the new SM-1250.....

This is a Fabulous deal, but let's not lose sight of the reality. If you're rich, have a sugar-mommy or daddy, are a high-income pro, or if you can get financing, my advice would be to spring for something (several somethings, in fact) more powerful, more feature-rich (and a LOT more expensive). Lights are like hard disks and internet connections: no matter how big a hard disk is, and no matter how fast your net connection is, they're never big or fast enough. But if you're just starting out, or are on a budget, or are an advanced (or advancing) amateur, these little babies sure make a lot of sense. Let's face it, your portrait clients (or your mother-in-law) won't have any idea whether you paid three hundred or three thousand for each of these strobes; they'll just be impressed (let them think they cost you an arm and a leg; especially those snooty, skinny, little models - "Ya want great head shots, sweetie? It's gonna cost ya; hell, my lights are so valuable, whenever I trade one in, I gotta pay it alimony!") Umm, just some photographer humor, folks :) - it sorta grows on you as you progress in photography; you'll see.

Now lemme tell ya about another great feature on these dynamite little units that's not found on many competing strobes costing 3-5 times the price of these: when you set these units for 1/2 power, the modeling lights ALSO dim to 1/2 power! What a great feature (what's a "modeling light?" see the explanation just below this picture)! [Why, you may ask, would we want to reduce a strobe's power output? see the "technique" section, below.

As we can see from the back view, The New SM-1250 is well-stocked with controls and comes with all the extras already built-in.

The SM-1250 is a "Monolight," which means that all the required components are included in the one package (as opposed to other strobes which may have the flash head in one segment, and then need an additional and separate power supply in order to get it to work; at an additional cost, too). With these units, everything is included; just plug them in, and fire away!

BTW, a "Modeling Light" is a separate, additional, light (in addition to the strobe's "Flash Tube") that's built into the strobe and throws continuous light over the same area as the strobe's flash tube will (see the picture below for a close-up). You turn on the modeling light (before your shot), so the photographer can see what the modeling will look like, as s/he adjusts the lights before he takes the shot and fires the strobe ("Modeling" is PhotoSpeak for the highlights (light areas) and shadows (dark areas) that fall upon the subject, giving it the depth and texture necessary for professional results). This great feature (modeling light) is usually only found on much more expensive lights.

This unit can be activated by the PC Cord (included, of course), the Test Button, or the Slave Sensor (which means that any other flash, even your camera's little built-in flash, can automatically fire this unit by it's light alone, so you don't even need to use a sync (PC) cord unless you want to). BTW, a "PC Cord" (Push Contact), also called a "Sync Cord" is a wire that connects the strobe to your camera, and fires the strobe when you press the camera's shutter button.

Check out my great Photographic web site HERE!

	We can see the difference between the Modeling Light Bulb and the Flash Tube (the circular tube surrounding the modeling bulb) in this close-up shot of the SM-1250's business end (with the reflector removed, of course). The modeling light is especially valuable to the amateur, because it let's us "see" exactly where the light will fall when the strobe flashes. This feature alone is worth at least a hundred rolls of ruined film (which you'll save by having a modeling light)! One of the major questions (and hesitations) I had when I was beginning to learn photography, was "If you use strobes, how do you know what the subject will look like, or how and where the light will illuminate the subject, if you don't have continuous lighting to judge by?" The answer was really simple: You don't. UNLESS your strobes also have MODELING LIGHTS! With modeling lights, you can see exactly where the strobe's flash will illuminate the subject, because the modeling light falls on the subject the same as the strobe's light will fall on the subject (less intensely, of course)! And this is why the pros pay lotsa money for good strobes that come with modeling lights. That's why the professional photographer's pictures look so much better than ours do: they have the right equipment for the job! They can CONTROL THE LIGHT! And now, so can you.
PhotoSpeak: What's a "Slave Sensor?" Well, if you had to use a PC Cord for every strobe, just think what a mess of tangled wires you'd have if you were using 5 or 6 or more strobes to light your subject (as many pros do)! So, science came to our rescue with slave sensors. It's a tiny little sensor built into most good strobes, that sits & waits for a short, intense burst of light. When it detects this burst of light (the flash from another strobe), it automatically sets off the flash tube in the strobe its built into. Voila! Now, with strobes that have slave sensors (often just called "slaves"), we can connect only one strobe to our cameras (with the PC or Sync cord), usually the strobe closest to our camera, and when we press the shutter button, firing the one connected strobe, that flash will automatically set off all the other strobes we may be using for that shot! Ah, ain't technology wunnerful (sic)? Even most of the little flashes built into most modern cameras can set off most strobes with slaves. A strobe that has PC socket, or both a PC Socket and a slave sensor is called a "Master" strobe; a strobe that only has a slave sensor and no PC socket (usually less expensive units) is called a "Slave." Whichever strobe you're using with a PC cord is referred to as your "master" strobe for purposes of that shot. Most of the better strobes have both PC sockets and slave sensors, so they're more versatile and useful to us (however, there are many very good slaves out there today, and you won't need all your strobes to be masters, so don't hesitate to buy some decent slaves when the time comes - and, believe me, if you stick with photography, the time will come).
Complete: Each of these SM-1250s comes complete with umbrella-capable reflector, sync cord, AC cord, Flash Tube, Modeling Light, built-in umbrella holder, and standard light stand connector; it's ready to plug in and fire away! Since the strobe in this package is an A.C. unit (a completely self-contained MonoLight), it's ready to rock! No batteries or powerpacks or light heads or connector cords are needed; just plug 'em in, and (just like Elvis) you're ready to rock and roll. As with all quality strobes, this is capable of using many additional custom accessories, of course (e.g., snoots, barn doors, softboxes, stands, unbrellas, honeycombs, gel holders, etc.). BTW, pros use umbrellas to "bounce" the strobe's light off of (or sometimes through) to make the light softer, reduce or eliminate shadows, and "mellow-out" the picture. Softboxes (and SoftCases) and umbrellas are specifically designed for this purpose (and yes, this strobe is able to use custom-fitted softboxes & softcases). These are brand new, 100% guaranteed, with the manufacturer's full one year warrantee . These are NOT seconds, blemishes, or anything other than brand new, absolutely perfect, current 2000 models! Just 'cause the price is great, doesn't mean these are in any way less than perfect! Questions? Requests? just e-mail any questions or requests, to me at wryter@usa.net or check out-my web site HERE.-These strobes and other photographic equipment also come with an "extra" that's not available anywhere else, at any price whatsoever: FREE photographic education, advice and training from MyPhotoHome.com (coming soon to a computer near you)! MPH Members also get FREE web space (to post your own pictures), and much, much more (when MyPhotoHome.com comes online, shortly).
Point of Information: Why, you might be asking yourself, have virtually all photographers switched to using strobes, when "regular" continuous lights (photographers call them "hot" lights) are everywhere, and it's easier for us to see how the lighting will look with them? Well, the continuous lights, like the ones in our houses (tungsten lights), or halogen (and similar) are called "hot lights" for a reason: they get hot. Really hot! And the special photographic hot lights get twice as hot as household bulbs! This tends to make certain things, like flowers, foods, animals, and those darn pesky models, wilt. Especially models. They get very, very, unhappy when they wilt. Whine, gripe, groan; you'd think a little melting makeup, and running mascara, limp hair, and sticky lipstick, and beads of sweat running down their lovely curvaceous (umm, let's say noses) was a big deal or something, the way they complain! ;-) Next, there's a little problem with the "color temperature" being way off with hot lights, so we have to use special films (3200K or 3400K) or filters, or special photographic bulbs, when using them (strobes are perfectly balanced at 5500K to simulate sunlight, so we can use all the regular daylight films we've come to love/hate over the years). You'll notice that most of your pictures taken indoors without using a flash turn out with a yellowish color cast; that's because household lights are loaded with yellow and red light. The solution is to either use special films, or special filters. But why create more problems for yourself? Using strobes eliminates all these headaches (and heat!). Also, with continuous lights, they're always shining; usually right in our subject's eyes, causing squinting and annoyance (and ugly looking pictures). With strobes, nothing is shining in their eyes, and the flash is too short to cause any of this discomfort to our beloved subjects (until AFTER the flash, when they might be chasing all those little light blips around the room:). Additionally, with strobes, we can control the light much better! We can adjust the power output with the flick of a switch. We can modify the light with umbrellas, softboxes, softcases, filters, scrims and gobos, doo-dahs, and thingamajigs, etc., etc. We can direct the light with barn doors, snoots, honeycombs, and many other accessories. In short, with strobes, we can play God with our photography; WE CAN CONTROL THE LIGHT! And we can do it 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, whenever we want, no matter what the weather is, and without regard to daylight or night. There are yet other, more esoteric, as well as mundane reasons why strobes are the preferred means of photographic lighting in the modern world, but we'll pass on those things for now. You've probably had enough information shoved down your throat already (sorry, but I can't resist trying to educate everyone about photography).
BTW, technically speaking, all professional photographic flash units, even though nearly all pros call them "strobes," are not technically strobe lights. A real stroboscope is capable of dozens (or hundreds or even thousands) of flashes per second, and many can maintain that flash rate for hours on end. Our photographic strobes would die a dozen deaths if we tried to set them off 25 or 50 times a second! However, since photographers almost always call these lights "strobes," we'll just stick with the term; but, technically..... Well, you get the idea ;->

Questions, questions, questions....

How can you sell brand new photographic equipment for such low prices? What shipping and payment options do you offer? How do I know I can trust you with my hard-earned money? What's your policy on customer service? Will these pro strobes work with my camera? WI'll they work with my digital camera? What if my camera is old? How do I contact you? If I live in Southern California; can I pick up the equipment myself? Will you offer more photographic equipment (than you have now)? Are your products guaranteed or warranted? What if I want certain equipment, but you don't have an auction with the equipment I want? Do you accept Lay-Away payment plans? Will you ship to Canada or Europe or Asia? What if I have some technical questions? Hey! Somebody else e-mailed me after I bid on your auction(s) and told me terrible things, or offered me a "deal" on cheaper equipment... these - and many more of your questions answered - just click on the "Answers" link below!

Answers, answers, answers....

Technique: Why would we want to dim a strobe to 1/2 power? Because in order to get great pictures, we have to be able to control the light (sound familiar?) in a number of ways. Sometimes a full power flash is too powerful for the effect we're after; other times we may want to reduce the illumination to create a different mood. In people pictures, for a head shot (that's what photographers call a picture of a person's face, often the face and shoulders), we often want part of the face highlighted, and the other part of the face in a light to medium shadow. This interplay of light and shadow is called "modeling," and is a hallmark of good photography. Anyway, as an example, a common lighting ratio for people pictures is a 1:2 (also 1:3, 1:4, or even 1:5) ratio - full illumination on one side of the face, and 1/2 that amount of light on the other side of the subject's face (we rarely want full frontal lighting, because it gives the face a flat and unappealing look, as well as other negative aspects). The 1:2 (full/half) lighting combination can give us an interesting and often flattering image, with a good ratio of light and shadow - revealing the character, and giving us depth and texture (but be sure to play around with other lighting ratios, too, for even more creativity). Whenever we have two strobes to work with, we can achieve this 1:2 ratio by moving one strobe (the one providing the shadow side lighting) twice as far away from the subject as our main light (the strobe providing the full illumination). But often things get in the way, like walls and such; not all of us have lots of room in our studios (especially living room studios :) to move our lights as far away as we like. Aha! The scientific wizards devised a most convenient solution! A variable-power strobe (like this great SM-1250)! Now, instead of moving lights all over the place, all we have to do is flip a switch, and Voila! 1/2 power without any hassle at all! In some very powerful strobes, we might even find variations from full power, all the way down to 1/32 power. Another way to achieve a lighting ratio (when we only have one strobe) is to use a reflector to "bounce" some light onto the shadow side of the subject's face. You can buy a "professional" reflector for as much as $100.00 or more, but I just use a white poster board, which you can find at any art supply store for under two bucks. You don't have to spend a fortune to make great pictures, just use your equipment to its fullest extent - and use your head!
Back up to the SM-1250 description

Specifications: SM-1250 Pro Studio Monolight
AC Input	110-120 Volt
AC Fuse	5 Amp
Modeling Lamp	60W BA-15S BASE (rated 1,000 hours)
Flash Tube	BC-100Y (rated 10,000 flashes) 125WS (huh?)
Guide No. (ISO 100)	GN: 38 Meters / 125 Feet (huh?)
Trigger	Test button / Slave / PC Cord
Slave Effective Distance	15 Meters / 50 Feet
Sync Socket	5 ø Standard Earphone Type, 6V DC
Diameter of Light Head	70 ø mm
Recycling Time	1-3 Seconds
Dimensions & Weight	240 x 80 x 140mm 0.65Kg
Capable of using many additional accessories of course.

You're getting one Britek SM-1250 Professional Strobe with this kit

If this isn't exactly what you're looking for in photographic equipment....

Then Check Out My Other Auctions!

There are complete photographic lighting packages, light stands, background stands and systems, strobes of various powers and capabilities, and all sorts of exciting and educational equipment and information available in my auctions! So check out my other auctions for great deals on quality equipment for photographers of all ilks, ages, sexes, shapes & sizes! =:>) Yup, that means YOU, too! Go on, don't be afraid - CLICK that link.... Or, just ASK ME whatever you'd like!

Q. What the heck is a "WS" and what's a "GN," and what in the world do they mean?

WS = Watt Second | GN = Guide Number

Here's a brief explanation (using, for this example, your (well, it might be yours soon:) new SM-1250 strobe, which have a power level of 125WS, and a GN of 125):

The "125WS" (or the 80WS, or 20WS, etc.) is the output power of your strobe and a watt second is equal to the electrical term "joules," a high-falutin power level. The Guide Number (GN) of these SM-1250 units is also 125 (for ASA/ISO 100 film), with a standard reflector. Often, the Watt Second power output is close to the guide number. What good is knowing the guide number? Well, the GN gives us a method of calculating exposure (for any strobe and any film) in this way: to calculate the correct approximate exposure for any subject at any distance, simply divide the distance (in feet) that the subject is from the strobe, into the strobe's GN (guide number); the result is our approximate "F" stop.

For example, (presuming you're using ISO/ASA 100 film), our GN is 125, and the subject is 12 feet away, then: 125 (GN) divided by 12 (feet away from the subject) = 10.4, so we'd use an exposure setting of just under F11. If our subject is 8 feet away, then: 125 divided by 8 = 15.6 which would give us an approximate F stop of just under 16. See? Umm, if you don't understand it, don't worry about it (it took me years to fully comprehend). Suggestion: If you're serious about improving your photography, you should consider getting a handheld flash/ambient light meter (sorry, I don't carry any at this time).

Back up to the SM-1250 description

Wanna see the ultimate eBay Photographic auctions? Go Look!

Check out my great Photographic web site HERE!

Brand New 2.8 to 6.5 Foot Light stand

Unlike many of the items you'll find listed on eBay, all these items are Brand New, not old, used, banged-up cast-offs that someone else is trying to get rid of. These are 100% new, perfect, and come with the manufacturer's full warantee. Consider this when making your purchasing decisions.

Top: 3/8" stud, 1/4" thread, type A.
Size: 2.8 ft to 6.5 feet; Weight: 2.4 lbs. ea.

Here's a fabulous deal on an excellent quality light stand. This Brand New Britek light stand extends to a height of 6 1/2 Feet, and folds down (fully assembled) to only 2.8 feet for easy packing and transport.

These stands have a black finish which reduces unwanted glare; three vertical sections (19mm, 16mm, 13mm), and three double-braced legs (16mm), which provide excellent stability in the studio or on location. They're topped with a standard 3/8" stud with 1/4" thread, type A. Sturdy as all get out, yet only weigh about 3 lbs. (so you can pack up a set of three stands for under 10 lbs. for location shoots - believe me, schlepping around anything heavier can give you a hernia, especially when added to all your other gear). Yet these babies can be folded up and put in the corner of your closet and take up very little space.

I've been using these same stands for over a year now, and couldn't be happier! You'll probably love 'em, too. They're sized perfectly for multiple uses: with a low height of under 3 feet, they're great for background lighting; at their full 6.5 feet, they're perfect for lighting standing subjects, lighting from above for kids or sitting subjects, or even hairlights; and adjusting them anywhere in-between, they're perfect for subject-level lighting, whether you're photographing kids or adults (or things)! BTW, as stated above, you'll be buying brand new stands here, NOT my used ones (those are mine! you can't have them; I like them, and I'm gonna keep them; you go buy your own! (hey, at this great price, buy several. :).

Reality Check: Hey, if you're rich, I'd suggest buying a set of bigger, heavier (& more expensive) stands for your pro studio setup, and another set of lightweight stands for location shoots; but my studio is in my house, and I don't have 20 foot ceilings for the 15' stands anyway, so these stands work just fine for me. 6.5 feet is plenty high for most uses, and we have larger stands should you need more height. And they're sturdy enough for studio work, and light enough for location work. Realize, though, that these stands, while certainly a great deal and a marvelous value, are the working photog's Chevys and Fords; not Rolls Royces. Treat them with minimal respect, and they'll see you through to old age; but if you're looking for the Ferraris of light stands, go buy something else. This sturdy light stand is rated to hold a load of 10 pounds (but, personally, I try to keep the load under 9 lbs when it's fully extended) either way, it's likely to be able to hold darn near any lighting unit you're using. Of course, there are bigger and heavier stands, too.

All the sections of these stands are quality tubular stock, NOT the cheapie solid ones (which are heavier and less versatile, as well as cheaper). The only "cheap" part of these stands is the price - not the quality! Bid now, while they're still in stock.

You're getting one Britek 6 1/2 Foot Light stand (305) with this kit

Umbrella & Accessories

	SILVER/BLACK REFLECTION UMBRELLA: 32" The White/Black umbrella is made of the new P-Satin clothes-PU bonding with high denier Satin. Their Black cover can achieve almost 100% light reflection rate and provide soft almost shadowless light, which is suitable for indirect and diffusive lighting. A wonderful method of softening the light. Technique: Photographers use these umbrellas to diffuse and soften light; in portraits, for example, this soft lighting very effectively hides many of the lines and wrinkles on the faces of our victims (umm, our "subjects" :), making them look younger and more vital. It's also great for photographing highly reflective surfaces, such as jewelry, glass, and chrome (it avoids the bright reflections that mess up our pictures). But don't let our clients know our little secrets, just accept their appreciation (along with your quickly-escalating fees), and let them believe it was your phenomenal photographic skill that made them (or their products) look so damn good! Look, you're spending a lot of time and money acquiring the equipment, and learning the skills of the photographic arts; you're becoming a skilled professional; your work is valuable as well as beautiful. Don't price yourself out of the market, certainly, but don't sell yourself cheap, either.
	Point of Information: BTW (btw means "by the way" for any "newbies" paying us a visit), a "Reflection" umbrella is one that reflects the strobe's light back onto the subject, and thereby softens and diffuses the light. This technique is often used in portraits, delicate items, and for photographing reflective surfaces, and performs many beneficial services for all us hard-working, and under-appreciated photographic artists. Keep it a secret from others, though, and let them think we get our beautiful images through some sort of secret and esoteric magic, passed down through the centuries, from master to disciple. It helps increase our value ;-) - and please don't send me any e-mail explaining that photography hasn't been around for centuries, I know that. Duh. Back to top
	H70- 150mm 6" Umbrella Reflector Used alone for about 60º coverage, or with barn doors to control lighting spread, or with an umbrella to create soft and diffuse lighting. This custom reflector is designed with a special "slot" in it to allow for the use of an umbrella, without the need for a special umbrella holder accessory! A unique innovation! This is usually the reflector that comes with the Britek SM-1250 Strobes, since they have an integral umbrella holder built in to the strobe's light stand connector.
	H70MM Snoot The Snoot provides a 30º concentrated light source for spot lighting or dramatic accents. Often used to "spotlight" a product, or a specific area of a photograph; also used for hairlights in people pictures. One of the photographer's "must have" accessories (the Snoot also acts as a holder for the Medium Honeycomb, below).
	Medium Honeycomb This unit attaches to the end of the Snoot, above, and restricts the light beam to 15º as well as softening the light. Often used for hairlights and accent lights, as well as many other uses. Another one of the photographer's "must have" accessories.
You will receive One of each of the items above with this kit.
Options: Questions? Requests? Just e-mail me if anything is unclear or if you have any requests. I'm here to help. You can see many of the photographic items I list on eBay HERE!
Technique: The most important "secret" of good photography is the thought the photographer puts into a picture before s/he even considers what type of film to use! The point here is that we have to train ourselves to think before we shoot! What color is our subject? How can we make that color (or shade) stand out? Look at the example here, and see how the simple choice of using a background that matches our subject's eye color can improve our pictures. In the lovely picture to your left, notice how the blue-violet shadows to the right of the model's head accentuate her blue eyes. Notice, too how half the face is in a light shadow, adding depth and texture. We have to ask ourselves: What do we want to emphasize in our picture? How will we direct our viewers' eye to our subject? If it's an outdoors photograph, how will we separate our main subject from any other distracting elements in our photograph? At which angle should we shoot? Is it important to establish place in this photograph (i.e., is it important for the viewer to know where our subject is? Or do we want to hide the location)? If we're shooting people, what is our victim's least appealing feature (i.e., a large nose, a bald head, pot belly, lotsa wrinkles, etc.:)? How can we hide or de-emphasize it? What's our subject's most appealing feature (i.e., eyes, profile, smile, boobs - oops! sorry, I couldn't resist:) ? How can we emphasize the attractive aspects of our subjects? These are the questions photographers have to ask, before we shoot. THINK before you shoot! MAKE a photograph - don't "take" a snapshot! Learn to "design" your picture before you pick up your camera! Take a piece of paper and a pencil, and sketch out what you want in the picture you're considering; this will be a great help in the beginning, and after a few weeks or months of doing this, you'll start to do it all in your head, and won't need the pencil and paper any more. I promise you that a good photograph doesn't require the genius of an Einstein - it just takes a little thought and preparation (creativity and practice doesn't hurt either)! You don't have to study photography for 20 years, just train yourself to think before you shoot! Don't try to plan out 100 subjects all at once; think about one or two, and then use 10 rolls of film on just a few ideas. Shoot from different angles; shoot from different heights; shoot with different lighting angles; shoot with color film; shoot with black and white film; think, then shoot! Pretty soon, you'll wake up one day and realize that you've changed; you'll look at the world differently; you'll "see" things most people never even notice; one day, you'll realize that you've become something special; something different, but different in a most amazing and wonderful way; you will have become - a photographer! © 2001 Quickie Photographic Technique #3: Portraits - Set the camera at subject's eye level; focus on the eyes; light one side of the face brighter than the other (half in light to medium shadow); to hide wrinkles use umbrellas or softbox/softcase; to further hide wrinkles, use a "soft focus" filter (it works like magic!); to de-emphasize a large nose, raise camera level slightly and shoot full or 3/4 face; to de-emphasize a receding hairline, lower camera slightly or have subject raise head slightly. More "quickie technique" information will be included in my other auction descriptions. Thank you for viewing this auction, and good luck! Tell me more about getting perfect exposure... From whom should you buy your photographic equipment? Hey, it's your hard-earned money, so you should buy from anybody you darn well like! However, one of the advantages of buying from another photographer is that, unlike "salesmen," who just want to "sell" things to you, a photographer will know what you need, and what you don't need; a photographer will know why you'll need something, and why you won't need something; a photographer will have actually used the equipment being sold, and will be able to offer advice based on real-life experience. Of course, the facts that photographers (like us) are usually much better-looking, a lot smarter, definitely kinder, and unquestionably much more creative than other folks, doesn't hurt either, does it? ;-) Unlike the others who try to cover up their own photographic illiteracy with vague warnings cautioning you against buying from anyone else (but them, that is:), I won't stoop to such reprehensible behavior; I guess I'm just not greedy enough to do such things. In addition, I trust you to be smart enough to make up your very own mind, without my self-serving advice, telling you who you should and shouldn't patronize. Sure, I'm in business to sell photographic equipment, but I'd rather lose a few sales than insult my customers' intelligence with admonitions like: "Buy from me! Don't buy from the other guy!" So go ahead and check out what's available, compare prices, quality, and customer service philosophies; see who you think will provide more help and support. Then, check out the feedback profiles; go look to see what the other "photographic experts" were selling a few months ago (that'll be a revelation:). Next visit the web sites, of your potential suppliers (especially those who claim to be photographers with "100 years experience," and see how much they really know about photography). Then, in addition to the usual, logical, informed, procedures for making your purchasing decisions, check with the old standby that's almost always right, your gut feelings. Check things out; make up your own mind. Then, without doubt, you'll probably come to the right conclusion. [However, - just in the interest of saving you time and trouble ;-) the conclusion you'll surely come to is that "PhotoSource3" on eBay (who is also the beloved founder and talented creator of MyPhotoHome and Photographer's SupplyStation) is "Da Man" from whom to buy your photographic goodies! =:-) ] Thank you for being kind enough to view this auction (I hope you realize that my humor is meant to be fun, and is intended with good will), may you have the best of luck, and don't forget, as always, no matter who you choose to honor with your photographic purchases, take (or better yet, "make") lots of great pictures! And remember, you can't get good - unless you get started.
This great kit is on sale for only $209.95! Back to top ---(Similar kits from competing manufacturers sell for up to $495.00, and sometimes much more!)
Back to top ----You could end up owning this great professional photographic lighting package for LESS than half of what you'd pay for just one single strobe from a competing manufacturer or photo supplier! [How can you sell brand new equipment for such low prices?]
Click for more information -> Buy with Confidence! <- You're SAFE!

"Ladies and Gentlemen, Elvis has left the building...."
That's it for the goodies, folks; now for the details (below):

Starter Strobe Package II - Instant Purchase Link
Starter Strobe Package II Kit #103 On Sale for only: $209.95 Shipping (UPS Ground): $28.55* Click the PayPal link on the right to go to a secure site where you can charge your new equipment to your American Express, MasterCard, Visa, or Discover card. Back to top of page	My PayPal account is in my company name: Adam Publishing Co.
*IMPORTANT: If your shipping address is anywhere other than in the 48 contiguous U.S. States, the shipping charges above will need to be adjusted (if you're outside of the original 48 States, please e-mail me with your shipping address and the kit number for an updated shipping quote). Thank you. Foreign shipping alert.
Note: If you're not a fan of PayPal (some folks don't like it), and would rather use Billpoint, then just send me an e-mail message with the kit number explaining that you'd prefer to use Billpoint to pay by credit card, and I'll send you an e-mail invoice from Billpoint (the e-mail will contain all the instructions and links to a secure site where you can pay with your credit card). If you're not already a verified PayPal member, Billpoint will be quicker and easier (since they don't require bank information or waiting periods). Of course, snail mail payments are also welcome. See all your payment and shipping options here. Back to top

Shipping & handling is only $28.55 for UPS ground delivery (in continental USA)! Other shipping methods available (UPS 3 Day, Next Day Air or Fed Express, etc.), buyer chooses. Just e-mail me if you want a shipping quote. Payments by credit cards, cashier's checks and money orders shipped immediately; personal/business checks are welcome, but will be held until check clears. Thank you for taking the time to view this auction, may you have best of luck, and happy bidding!! You may add multiple units and/or accessories, which can be shipped together for savings.

BTW, if you should ever outgrow this strobe kit (unlikely, because photographers can always use all the lights and light stands we can get; I know many pros who use 6 or 7 or more strobes just for head shots!), but if you do, you can either trade it in on the new ones, or sell it (maybe even right here on eBay) - and you might even be able to sell it for as much as (or maybe even more than) you paid for it! So unlike that great computer we're all using right now (which will be almost worthless, for resale purposes, in 6 months or a year), this light and photographic equipment will retain a good portion (if not all) of its value if or when you're ready to move on.

Guaranteed! This brand new, top quality, kit equals or surpasses those with retail list prices far higher! Go ahead, check with your local photo store(s). Bid responsibly, but with confidence. These items are 100% guaranteed to be brand new, with manufacturer's warantee! You may return this package (in new and undamaged condition, of course) within 7 days of receipt for a full refund (excluding shipping), if it is not exactly as described above in every way. Trust me, you'll love it! If you'd like to review a few hundred more impartial and objective opinions, check my feedback; and see what every other customer has had to say about this product (as well as every other item I've ever sold), and about my service, and my commitment to 100% customer satisfaction! Hey, us struggling photogs have to stick together, y'know (and all of us are always struggling - to make that elusive "perfect" photograph, huh?). Thanks again for viewing this auction; feel free to e-mail any questions to me.

NOTE: The SM-1250 Pro Strobe has been discontinued, and is replaced with the new PS-300 Pro Strobe (which is more powerful - and more expensive - than the SM-1250 Strobes). Consequently, the SM-1250 Strobe(s) in this package will be automatically replaced with the PS-300 Pro Strobe(s) at no additional cost. See the PS-300s here.

As an eBay PowerSeller, a Billpoint PreferredSeller, and a PayPal "Verified" premier business seller, my customers are safer, happier, and better off all around! :-) If you're a PayPal user, you no longer have that darn $1-2,000.00 limit every 6 months on your purchases when you order from me (unlimited credit)! If you're a Billpoint user (your credit is unlimited again), you will NOT have that annoying $500.00 per auction limit on your purchases when you buy from me, and even if you're new to Billpoint, there's NO waiting or verification delays whatsoever, so your order can be shipped immediately (and you can use Billpoint to pay for any purchase from me - unlike the limits you have with ordinary sellers)! You're ALWAYS better off buying from PhotoSource3! Plus, your purchase is doubly guaranteed against fraud! Read more about your safeguards...

NOTE: You're welcome to pay with PayPal, BidPay, or Billpoint by credit card or electronic check. BidPay and Billpoint will allow folks from countries other than the USA to use credit cards, too. For those not technologically inclined, snail mail (i.e. the post office) will also work just fine. I hope this helps provide enough alternatives for you (if not, feel free to send in your suggestions; e-mail me here). One of the differences between me and the big guys, is the fact that I'm always willing to do whatever I possibly can to help out my customers in whatever ways are needed. Here's my philosophy on "Customer Service." Will I ship to Canada and other countries? Sure I will! But read this before placing an out-of-the-USA bid. Basically, if you're willing to pay the shipping charges, then I'll be happy to ship to you. But don't say I didn't warn you that the shipping charges for foreign countries will be substantially higher than domestic rates. For answers to common questions, read my FAQ.

P.S. Check out my great Photographic web site HERE!

Check out my other auctions!

Shop with confidence!
Bid with confidence!
Buy with confidence!
From a Profoundly Proud
eBay PowerSeller!

This PowerSeller proudly provides a plethora of perfect premium photographic products - PLUS - pure, powerful, and peerless customer service!

[Ain't that great alliteration? Huh? Well, ain't it?]

Check out my great Photographic web site HERE!

--> Check out all my other wonderful auctions!

Guerrilla Photography is Coming!

Here's a GREAT New Starter Strobe Package! All BRAND NEW!

Here's what you get:

1) One Britek SM-1250 125WS Professional Strobe (Show me)
2) One Britek 6 1/2 Foot Light Stand (Show Me)
3) One 32" Black / Silver Umbrella (Show Me)
4) One H70MM Snoot and (Show Me)
5) One Medium Honeycomb (Show Me)

Just scroll up or click on a "Show Me" link to jump up. (Kit #103)

Click for more information -> Bid with confidence! <- You're SAFE!

**Wanna see the ultimate eBay Photographic auctions? Go Look!**

	Shop with confidence! Bid with confidence! Buy with confidence! From a Profoundly Proud eBay PowerSeller! This PowerSeller proudly provides a plethora of perfect premium photographic products - PLUS - pure, powerful, and peerless customer service! [Ain't that great alliteration? Huh? Well, ain't it?]

Check out my great Photographic web site HERE!
--> Check out all my other wonderful auctions!

NEW! Instant Purchase now available (see below)

NEW! Instant Purchase now available (see below)

Starter Strobe / Flash Package II - All Brand New! Strobe, Light Stand, Umbrella, Snoot, and Honeycomb

Here's a GREAT New Starter Strobe Package! All BRAND NEW!

The NEW Britek SM-1250 Professional Studio Flash

At the great price you'll get this kit for, you could buy 2 or even 3 of them for LESS than you might pay for a single competing light! (Well, probably, anyway :)

More about the new SM-1250.....

Specifications: SM-1250 Pro Studio Monolight

Umbrella & Accessories

Here's a GREAT New Starter Strobe Package! All BRAND NEW!

Starter Strobe / Flash Package II - All Brand New!
Strobe, Light Stand, Umbrella, Snoot, and Honeycomb