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Fantastic Brand New SEVEN Strobe
Professional Photographic Studio
PLUS A Deluxe Background Support System
At a price you can afford (for a change)!

You Get all this:	Everything is BRAND NEW!
Just scroll down to see pictures / descriptions, or jump to an item by clicking on the "Show Me" links. Kit # 639 1) Two Britek HS-500 Professional Studio Strobes 180WS! <- NEW! show me 2) Three Britek SM-1250 Professional Studio Flash Units (125WS) show me 3) Two Mini Slave Strobes (20WS) show me 4) Two Custom Snoot, Barndoors, Honeycomb Sets for Mini Strobes show me 5) Six Britek 2.8 to 6.5 Foot Light stands show me 5) One Backlight stand show me 6) One 32" Silver / Gold Reflection Umbrella show me 7) Two 44" White / Black Reflection Umbrellas show me 7) Five Unique Umbrella Reflectors show me 9) One Snoot show me 10) One Honeycomb show me 11) Two sets of Barn Doors show me 12) A Complete Deluxe Triple-Capable Background Support System Show Me 13) Custom Carrying Case for Background Support Set show me 13) Two Pan Head w/Umbrella Holders (for AS66 strobes) show me 14) BONUS! Custom light stand carrying/storage case! show me 15) BONUS! Custom Strobe carrying/storage case! show me 16) BONUS! A Great New 6' 8" x 9' Raw Muslin Background / Backdrop <- NEW! show me
This is truly a fantastic professional photographic lighting studio setup! With FIVE powerful main master strobes (2 powerful 180WS units plus 3 great 125WS units) to light your victims (um, your "subjects" that is:) and your background in the most creative manner, 2 great Mini-Strobes for highlights or hairlights, two huge 44" umbrellas to soften the light and minimize hot spots and reflections from reflective surfaces, or for portrait use, to hide those facial lines, sags, and wrinkles (making your subjects look younger and more vital), a silver/gold umbrella to add those lovely warm tones to our sunlight-deprived victims, and in addition, a deluxe background support set to hold your backgrounds (also called backdrops), plus a great raw Muslin background/backdrop to start you out, you'll have everything you'll need to start getting the fantastic pictures that will flatter and amaze your clients (or your kids, parents, friends, or relatives)! Also, by including FIVE powerful master strobes, you'll have more than enough power to light larger subjects (cars, interiors, etc.) and/or small groups of people (weddings, family groups, inc), as well as plenty of power to get those pure, white, "drop-out" background effects so popular nowadays. And for those times when you're going on location (or need to stash your studio in the closet), three roomy custom carrying cases for packing up ALL your new goodies. Whether you want to make great pictures of your products, or magnificent portraits of people, this equipment will provide you with everything you'll need to get started with a pro studio setup! And you can own this complete lighting studio for LESS than you'd pay for just one or two strobes from a competing manufacturer! And don't forget the full one year manufacturers limited guarantee!
Important: I just HATE IT when I buy a "kit" or "package," and then when I receive it, I discover that I can't use it because there's something else I need (usually at a substantial additional cost, too) to make it work (i.e., the "batteries not included" syndrome)! So I'd never do that to any of my (cherished) customers! With this fabulous package, everything is included (well, except a camera, film, and photographer, that is)! When this package arrives, all you'll have to do to start making great photographs, is open it up, unwrap your new goodies, put the strobes on the light stands, plug 'em in, point them at your favorite subjects, and, baby, just like Elvis, go ahead and rock and roll (fire away)! And, NO you won't have to buy anything extra!
Check out my great Photographic web site HERE!

NOTE: The SM-1250 Pro Strobe has been discontinued, and is replaced with the new PS-300 Pro Strobe (which is more powerful - and more expensive - than the SM-1250 Strobes). Consequently, the SM-1250 Strobe(s) in this package will be automatically replaced with the PS-300 Pro Strobe(s) at no additional cost. See the PS-300s here.

Package 639

	Shop with confidence! Bid with confidence! Buy with confidence! From a Profoundly Proud eBay PowerSeller! This PowerSeller proudly provides a plethora of perfect premium photographic products - PLUS - pure, powerful, and peerless customer service! Why you're safer shopping with me... [Ain't that great alliteration? Huh? Well, ain't it?]
--> Check out all my other wonderful auctions!

Would you like an entire 8. or 9 strobe photographic lighting studio in one great package? Perhaps just a strobe or two? A few light stands? Maybe a smaller 2, 3, 4, 5 or 6 strobe kit? Something really special to blow the mind of the photographer you love with all your heart and soul (like perhaps, yourself:)? All this - and much more - is available right now in my other auctions! <-- CLICK!

Here's some information about the items comprising
your new studio kit: The HS-500 Pro Studio Strobes 180WS

The NEW HS-500 Monolight This brand new Britek HS-500 is a great 180WS Monolight for the beginning professional, the pro with budget constraints, or the advanced amateur who is ready to bring the professional look to his or her photographs (without mortgaging the house). Why are photogs so in love with their studios? BECAUSE (in our studios) WE CAN CONTROL THE LIGHT! And a "studio" can be a corner of any room, as long as we can CONTROL THE LIGHT.

After all, the word "photographer" itself (from Greek) actually means Light Writer, or "one who writes with light." The term is meaningful because those of us who make photographs are slaves to light. Light is both our nemesis and our salvation (when we can control the light). Without the right types of lighting equipment, we can never progress to professional level studio pictures. Or location pictures. Sure, we can make beautiful photos with available light... when the light's just right, at the exact time we need it, and at exact place we need it, if it's not raining, if it's not snowing, if it's not too cold, if it's not too hot, if it's not too dark, if everyone we need to make the pictures are available, under all the right conditions.... beginning to see now? When we can control the light, we can make the best photographs (and with this great package, you'll be able to do just that).

PhotoSpeak: BTW, did you notice, above, that I said "make" photographs, and not "take" pictures? Well, here's your first lesson in how pros speak about photography (photospeak): "Snapshooters" or "point and shooters," who don't think and plan their shots (e.g., most of us) are the ones who "take" pictures (the rank amateurs). Photographers "make" great photographs by careful thought, detailed planning, and, most of all, scrupulous attention to lighting. Before they even think about pressing that shutter, they "design" their photos carefully. Soon, with a little effort, you'll be "making" great photographs! It's not that hard, believe me. But ya gotta CONTROL THE LIGHT!

This little beauty cranks out a full 180 watt seconds* for mamma or poppa (or both)! Why do photographers want powerful flash equipment (strobes)? Because (both indoors and outdoors) with strobes, WE CAN CONTROL THE LIGHT! Sound familiar? Starting to get the picture, now? (sorry, I just couldn't resist ;-) BTW, did you realize that both the photo above, and the photo on the left, were both taken against the same background? Yup. The backdrop was a pure white canvas. Why does the picture on the left look like it has a brown background? BECAUSE I COULD CONTROL THE LIGHT. Even with a cheapie old (really old) digital Fuji (no speed control, no slr, no aperture choice, etc.). How? See the "technique section below). Hmmm... Light! *What the heck is a "watt second?" And what's a "GN?" and why should I care?

Technique: How was I able to make the background that's in the top picture pure white, and the very same background, in the picture above, appear brown? It's easy - when you know how (it's sorta like this: What kind of question is a hard question? Answer: One you don't know the answer to. And what kind of question is an easy question? Answer: That's the one you do know the answer to). Here's how it's done: In the top picture, I lit the background with a backlight strobe (it's own strobe), so it received enough light to expose properly, and consequently it came out pure white. In the picture above, I did not light the background; I just used the tiny little built-in flash on the digital Fuji, which was enough to (barely) light the strobe I was photographing, but too weak to reach or brighten up the backdrop to white; therefore, the background underexposed and looked brownish, even though it was really a pure white canvas! Carried to an extreme, I could even make a white background look black, if I wanted to. How? By lighting the subject so brightly that the (unlit) background would underexpose (i.e., not receive enough light) so badly it would come out black. It's all in the LIGHT folks; it's all in the light! Remember, a photographer is a LIGHT writer. Back to the top

More about the new HS-500.....

At the great price you'll get this package for, you could own all this equipment for LESS than you might pay for just a couple of strobes from a competing manufacturers!

This is a Fabulous deal, but let's not lose sight of the reality. If you're rich, have a sugar-mommy or daddy, are a high-income pro, or if you can get financing, my advice would be to spring for something (several somethings, in fact) more powerful, more feature-rich (and a LOT more expensive). Lights are like hard disks and internet connections: no matter how big a hard disk is, and no matter how fast your net connection is, they're never big or fast enough. But if you're just starting out, or are on a budget, or are an advanced (or advancing) amateur, these babies sure make a lot of sense. They pump out 180WS of power, and will easily handle almost anything you could fit in a small or medium-sized studio. Let's face it, your portrait clients (or your mother-in-law) won't have any idea whether you paid six hundred or six thousand for each of these strobes; they'll just be impressed (let them think they cost you an arm and a leg; especially those snooty, skinny, little models - "Ya want great head shots, sweetie? It's gonna cost ya; hell, my lights are so valuable, whenever I trade one in, I gotta pay it alimony!") Umm, just some photographer humor, folks :) - it sorta grows on you as you progress in photography; you'll see.

Now lemme tell ya about another great feature on these dynamite units that are not found on many competing strobes costing 3-5 times the price of these: when you set these units for 1/2 power, the modeling lights ALSO dim to 1/2 power! What a great feature (what's a "modeling light?" see the explanation just below this picture)! [Why, you may ask, would we want to reduce a strobe's power output? see the "technique" section, below. As we can see from the back view, The New HS-500 is well-stocked with controls and comes with all the extras already built-in. The HS-500 is a "Monolight," which means that all the required components are included in the one package (as opposed to other strobes which may have the flash head in one segment, and then need an additional and separate power supply in order to get it to work; at an additional cost, too). With these units, everything is included; just plug them in, and rock and roll! <- Click to enlarge

BTW, a "Modeling Light" is a separate, additional, light (in addition to the strobe's "Flash Tube") that's built into the strobe and throws continuous light over the same area as the strobe's flash tube will (see the picture below for a close-up). You turn on the modeling light (before your shot), so the photographer can see what the modeling will look like, as s/he adjusts the lights before he takes the shot and fires the strobe ("Modeling" is PhotoSpeak for the highlights (light areas) and shadows (dark areas) that fall upon the subject, giving it the depth and texture necessary for professional results). This great feature (modeling light) is usually only found on much more expensive lights. This unit can be activated by the PC Cord (included, of course), the Test Button, or the Slave Sensor (which means that any other flash, even your camera's little built-in flash, can automatically fire this unit by it's light alone, so you don't even need to use a sync (PC) cord unless you want to). BTW, a "PC Cord" (Push Contact), also called a "Sync Cord" is a wire that connects the strobe to your camera, and fires the strobe when you press the camera's shutter button.

We can see the difference between the Modeling Light Bulb and the Flash Tube (the circular tube surrounding the modeling bulb) in this close-up shot of the HS-500's business end (with the reflector removed, of course). The modeling light is especially valuable to the amateur, because it let's us "see" exactly where the light will fall when the strobe flashes. This feature alone is worth at least a hundred rolls of ruined film (which you'll save by having a modeling light)! One of the major questions (and hesitations) I had when I was beginning to learn photography, was "If you use strobes, how do you know what the subject will look like, or how and where the light will illuminate the subject, if you don't have continuous lighting to judge by?" The answer was really simple: You don't. UNLESS your strobes also have MODELING LIGHTS! With modeling lights, you can see exactly where the strobe's flash will illuminate the subject, because the modeling light falls on the subject the same as the strobe's light will fall on the subject (less intensely, of course)! And this is why the pros pay lotsa money for good strobes that come with modeling lights. That's why the professional photographer's pictures look so much better than ours do: they have the right equipment for the job! They can CONTROL THE LIGHT! And now, so can you. The HS-500 comes with a powerful 150 watt halogen modeling light (it's rated at 1,000 hours; the flash tube is rated for 10,000 flashes! And, yes, replacements are always available - but you'll probably grow old before you'll need to replace one of these flash tubes).

PhotoSpeak: What's a "Slave Sensor?" Well, if you had to use a PC Cord for every strobe, just think what a mess of tangled wires you'd have if you were using 5 or 6 or more strobes to light your subject (as many pros do)! So, science came to our rescue with slave sensors. It's a tiny little sensor built into most good strobes, that sits & waits for a short, intense burst of light. When it detects this burst of light (the flash from another strobe), it automatically sets off the flash tube in the strobe its built into. Voila! Now, with strobes that have slave sensors (often just called "slaves"), we can connect only one strobe to our cameras (with the PC or Sync cord), usually the strobe closest to our camera, and when we press the shutter button, firing the one connected strobe, that flash will automatically set off all the other strobes we may be using for that shot! Ah, ain't technology wunnerful (sic)? Even most of the little flashes built into most modern cameras can set off most strobes with slaves. A strobe that has PC socket, or both a PC Socket and a slave sensor is called a "Master" strobe; a strobe that only has a slave sensor and no PC socket (usually less expensive units) is called a "Slave." Whichever strobe you're using with a PC cord is referred to as your "master" strobe for purposes of that shot. Most of the better strobes have both PC sockets and slave sensors, so they're more versatile and useful to us (however, there are many very good slaves out there today, and you won't need all your strobes to be masters, so don't hesitate to buy some decent slaves when the time comes - and, believe me, if you stick with photography, the time will come).

Complete: Each of these HS-500s comes complete with umbrella-capable reflector, sync cord, AC cord, Flash Tube, Modeling Light, built-in umbrella holder, and standard light stand connector; it's ready to plug in and fire away! Since all the strobes in this package are A.C. units, they're ready to rock! No batteries or powerpacks or light heads or connector cords are needed; just plug 'em in, and (just like Elvis) you're ready to rock and roll. As with all quality strobes, these are capable of using many additional custom accessories, of course (e.g., snoots, barn doors, softboxes, stands, unbrellas, honeycombs, gel holders, etc.). BTW, pros use umbrellas to "bounce" the strobe's light off of (or sometimes through) to make the light softer, reduce or eliminate shadows, and "mellow-out" the picture. Softboxes (and SoftCases) and umbrellas are specifically designed for this purpose (and yes, these are able to use custom-fitted softboxes & softcases). These are brand new, 100% guaranteed, with the manufacturer's full one year warrantee . These are NOT seconds, blemishes, or anything other than brand new, absolutely perfect, current 2002 models! Just 'cause the price is great, doesn't mean these are in any way less than perfect! Questions? Requests? just e-mail any questions or requests, to me at wryter@usa.net or check out-my web site HERE.-These strobes and other photographic equipment also come with an "extra" that's not available anywhere else, at any price whatsoever: FREE photographic education, advice and training from MyPhotoHome.com (coming soon to a computer near you)! MPH Members also get FREE web space (to post your own pictures), and much, much more (when MyPhotoHome.com comes online, shortly). Back to the top

Point of Information: Why, you might be asking yourself, have virtually all photographers switched to using strobes, when "regular" continuous lights (photographers call them "hot" lights) are everywhere, and it's easier for us to see how the lighting will look with them? Well, the continuous lights, like the ones in our houses (tungsten lights), or halogen (and similar) are called "hot lights" for a reason: they get hot. Really hot! And the special photographic hot lights get twice as hot as household bulbs! This tends to make certain things, like flowers, foods, animals, and those darn pesky models, wilt. Especially models. They get very, very, unhappy when they wilt. Whine, gripe, groan; you'd think a little melting makeup, and running mascara, limp hair, and sticky lipstick, and beads of sweat running down their lovely curvaceous (umm, let's say noses) was a big deal or something, the way they complain! ;-) Next, there's a little problem with the "color temperature" being way off with hot lights, so we have to use special films (3200K or 3400K) or filters, or special photographic bulbs, when using them (strobes are perfectly balanced at 5500K to simulate sunlight, so we can use all the regular daylight films we've come to love/hate over the years). You'll notice that most of your pictures taken indoors without using a flash turn out with a yellowish color cast; that's because household lights are loaded with yellow light. The solution is to either use special films, or special filters. But why create more problems for yourself? Using strobes eliminates all these headaches (and heat!). Also, with continuous lights, they're always shining; usually right in our subject's eyes, causing squinting and annoyance (and ugly looking pictures). With strobes, nothing is shining in their eyes, and the flash is too short to cause any of this discomfort to our beloved subjects (until AFTER the flash, when they might be chasing all those little light blips around the room:). Additionally, with strobes, we can control the light much better! We can adjust the power output with the flick of a switch. We can modify the light with umbrellas, softboxes, softcases, filters, scrims and gobos, doo-dahs, and thingamajigs, etc., etc. We can direct the light with barn doors, snoots, honeycombs, and many other accessories. In short, with strobes, we can play God with our photography; WE CAN CONTROL THE LIGHT! And we can do it 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, whenever we want, no matter what the weather is, and without regard to daylight or night. There are yet other, more esoteric, as well as mundane reasons why strobes are the preferred means of photographic lighting in the modern world, but we'll pass on those things for now. You've probably had enough information shoved down your throat already (sorry).

BTW, technically speaking, all professional photographic flash units, even though nearly all pros call them "strobes," are not technically strobe lights. A real stroboscope is capable of dozens (or hundreds or even thousands) of flashes per second, and many can maintain that flash rate for hours on end. Our photographic strobes would die a dozen deaths if we tried to set them off 25 or 50 times a second! However, since photographers almost always call these lights "strobes," we'll just stick with the term; but, technically..... Well, you get the idea ;-> Back to the top

Wondering what the reserve price is? I never hide anything from my (beloved) bidders! Just look for "Elvis" and you'll see the reserve price minimum clearly and honestly listed.

Q. What the heck is a "WS" and what's a "GN," and what in the world do they mean?

WS = Watt Second | GN = Guide Number Here's a brief explanation (using, for this example, your new HS-500 strobe (well, it might be yours soon:) , which has a power level of 180WS, and a GN of 150): The "180WS" (or the 80WS, or 20WS, etc.) is the output power of your strobe and a watt second is equal to the electrical term "joules," a high-falutin term for a high power level. The Guide Number (GN) of these HS-500 units is 150 (for ASA/ISO 100 film), with a standard reflector. What good is knowing the guide number? Well, the GN gives us a method of calculating exposure (for any strobe and any film) in this way: to calculate the correct approximate exposure for any subject at any distance, simply divide the distance (in feet) that the subject is from the strobe, into the strobe's GN (guide number); the result is our approximate "F" stop. For example, (presuming you're using ISO/ASA 100 film), our GN is 180, and the subject is 12 feet away, then: 180 (GN) divided by 12 (feet away from the subject) = 15, so we'd use an exposure setting of about F16. If our subject is 20 feet away, then: 180 divided by 20 = 9 which would give us an approximate F stop of about F 8 (bracketing is always a good idea, too). See? Umm, if you don't understand it, don't worry about it (it took me years to fully comprehend). Suggestion: If you're serious about improving your photography, you might consider getting a handheld flash/ambient light meter (sorry, I don't carry any at this time; if you want recommendations, just check this out). Back up to the HS-500 description from whence you came....

Technique: Why would anyone want to dim a strobe to 1/2 its normal power?

Why would we want to dim a strobe to 1/2 power? Because in order to get great pictures, we have to be able to control the light (sound familiar?) in a number of ways. Sometimes a full power flash is too powerful for the effect we're after; other times we may want to reduce the illumination to create a different mood. In people pictures, for a head shot (that's what photographers call a picture of a person's face, often the face and shoulders), we often want part of the face highlighted, and the other part of the face in a light to medium shadow. This interplay of light and shadow is called "modeling," and is a hallmark of good photography. Anyway, as an example, a common lighting ratio for people pictures is a 1:2 (or 1:3) ratio - full illumination on one side of the face, and 1/2 that amount of light on the other side of the subject's face (we rarely want full frontal lighting, because it gives the face a flat and unappealing look, as well as other negative aspects). The 1:2 (full/half) lighting combination gives us an interesting and often flattering image, with a good ratio of light and shadow - revealing the character, and giving us depth and texture (but be sure to play around with other lighting ratios, too, for even more creativity). Whenever we have two strobes to work with, we can achieve this 1:2 ratio by moving one strobe (the one providing the shadow side lighting) twice as far away from the subject as our main light (the strobe providing the full illumination). But often things get in the way, like walls and such; not all of us have lots of room in our studios (especially living room studios :) to move our lights as far away as we like. Aha! The scientific wizards devised a most convenient solution! A variable-power strobe (like this great HS-500)! Now, instead of moving lights all over the place, all we have to do is flip a switch, and Voila! 1/2 power without any hassle at all! In some very powerful strobes, we might even find variations from full power, all the way down to 1/32 power. Another way to achieve a lighting ratio (when we only have one strobe) is to use a reflector to "bounce" some light onto the shadow side of the subject's face. You can buy a "professional" reflector for as much as $100.00 or more, but I just use a white poster board, which you can find at any art supply store for under two bucks. You don't have to spend a fortune to make great pictures, just use your equipment to its fullest extent - and use your head! Back up to where you were....

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Here's some information about the items comprising
your new studio kit: Britek SM-1250 Professional Studio Flash Strobes

NOTE: The SM-1250 Pro Strobe has been discontinued, and is replaced with the new PS-300 Pro Strobe (which is more powerful - and more expensive - than the SM-1250 Strobes). Consequently, the SM-1250 Strobe(s) in this package will be automatically replaced with the PS-300 Pro Strobe(s) at no additional cost. See the PS-300s here.

The NEW SM-1250 Monolight This brand new Britek SM-1250 is a great starter Monolight for the beginning professional, the pro with tight budget constraints, or the advanced amateur who is ready to bring the professional look to his or her photographs (without mortgaging the house). Why are photogs so in love with their studios? BECAUSE (in our studios) WE CAN CONTROL THE LIGHT! And a "studio" can be a corner of any room, as long as we can CONTROL THE LIGHT.

All the basic data & information presented about the HS-500 Pro Studio Strobes (above) also pertain to the SM-1250 Pro Strobe - the only differences are: The SM-1250 puts out *125WS of power (instead of 180WS); and The SM-1250 has a 60 watt modeling light (instead of the 150 watt halogen on the HS-500). Here are some pictures of the SM-1250 Pro Strobe for your consideration. *What's a watt second?

More about the new SM-1250.....

At the great price you'll get this kit for, you could own this whole professional lighting studio package for LESS than you might pay for just one or two competing lights! (Well, probably, anyway :)

Guerrilla Photography is Coming!

Just as with the HS-500 Pro Studio Strobes, when you set these SM-1250s for 1/2 power, the modeling lights ALSO dim to 1/2 power! As we can see from the back view, The New SM-1250 is just as well-stocked with controls as are the HS-500s (some additional controls are located on the top side of the 1250s). The SM-1250 is also a "Monolight," meaning that all the required components are included in the one package no additional equipment is needed); just plug them in, and fire away!

As with the HS-500, we can see the SM-1250's Modeling Light Bulb (they're round, in this strobe) and the Flash Tube (the circular tube surrounding the modeling bulb). The reflector has been removed so you can see the flash tube and modeling bulb easier (but a reflector is included with every SM-1250 and HS-500 Pro Studio Strobe, of course).

Complete: Each of these SM-1250s (just like their big brothers, the HS-500 Pro Studio Strobes) comes complete with umbrella-capable reflector, sync cord, AC cord, Flash Tube, Modeling Light, built-in umbrella holder, and standard light stand connector; it's ready to plug in and fire away! Many additional accessories are also available for these units, whenever you're ready for them (e.g., snoots, barn doors, softboxes, stands, unbrellas, honeycombs, gel holders, etc.). These are brand new, 100% guaranteed, with full manufacturer's warrantee . These are NOT seconds, blemishes, or anything other than brand new, absolutely perfect, current 2002 models!

Q. What the heck is a "WS" and what's a "GN," and what in the world do they mean?

WS = Watt Second | GN = Guide Number Here's a brief explanation (using, for this example, your new SM-1250 strobe - well, it might be yours soon - :) which has a power level of 125WS, and a GN of 125): The "125WS" (or the 80WS, or 20WS, etc.) is the output power of your strobe and a watt second is equal to the electrical term "joules," a high-falutin term for a high power level. The Guide Number (GN) of these SM-1250 units is also 125 (for ASA/ISO 100 film), with a standard reflector. Often, the Watt Second power output is close to the guide number. What good is knowing the guide number? Well, the GN gives us a method of calculating exposure (for any strobe and any film) in this way: to calculate the correct approximate exposure for any subject at any distance, simply divide the distance (in feet) that the subject is from the strobe, into the strobe's GN (guide number); the result is our approximate "F" stop. For example, (presuming you're using ISO/ASA 100 film), our GN is 125, and the subject is 12 feet away, then: 125 (GN) divided by 12 (feet away from the subject) = 10.4, so we'd use an exposure setting of about F11. If our subject is 8 feet away, then: 125 divided by 8 = 15.6 which would give us an approximate F stop of about F 16 (bracketing is always a good idea, too). See? Umm, if you don't understand it, don't worry about it (it took me years to fully comprehend). Suggestion: If you're serious about improving your photography, you might consider getting a handheld flash/ambient light meter (sorry, I don't carry any at this time; if you want recommendations, just ask me). Back to from whence you came...

Wondering what the reserve price is? I never hide anything from my (beloved) bidders! Just look for "Elvis" and you'll see the reserve price minimum clearly and honestly listed.

Back to the top

Here's some information about the items comprising
your new studio kit: The AS-66 Mini-Strobe Slave -Plus- Custom Accessories and Bulb Holder

AS-66 Mini-Strobe: This has got to be the cutest little Mini-Slave you've ever seen! It's great for adding a hairlight, or a fill light, or for anyplace you might want an extra spot of light! It pumps out 20WS of light, and with all it's included accessories, you'll be able to place that light exactly where you want it. Hey, this is small, but it allows us to add those extra highlights that separate the amateur images from the professional images! This is an accessory light that you'll find yourself using for just about every shot - you'll see!

The Specs: AS-66 Mini-Strobe Slave: 20WS Output GN No.: 66 feet with ASA 100 Receptacle: E27 Edison Screw Base Triggering: Test Button and Slave Sensor Recycling Time: 4-6 seconds Effective Slave Distance: 50 feet WeightL 100 grams Size: 12 x 6 x 6 CM Accessories Included: Custom-Fitted: Barndoors, Honeycomb, and Snoot Plus E-27S Tilt & Swivel Panning Light Holder with integral Umbrella Holder, 10 foot Power Cord, and On-Off Switch

Reality Check: But be aware, though, that this unit is NOT sufficient to light a large subject (e.g., people) all by itself (check my other auctions for the more powerful units). But to illuminate small items, or for a fill light, an accent light, a hairlight, a copy light, or as an additional light for all your setups, etc., this 'lil beauty is a photographer's best friend! It will come in handy for almost every shot, and will allow you to fill in those little areas where an extra highlight or a little spot of light - right where you need it -can make all the difference in your shot. Remember, it's all in the little details!

You're getting TWO of these AS-66 Mini Strobes (+ accessories)!

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Here's some information about the items comprising
your new studio kit: The Light Stands!

Unlike many of the items you'll find listed on eBay, these light stands are Brand New, not old, used, banged-up cast-offs that someone else is trying to get rid of. These are 100% new, perfect, and come with the manufacturer's full one year warantee. Consider this when making your purchasing decisions. Top: 3/8" stud, 1/4" thread, type A. Size: 2.8 ft to 6.5 feet; Weight: 2.4 lbs. ea.	Here are some truly great quality light stands. These Brand New Britek light stands extend to a height of 6 1/2 Feet, and fold down (fully assembled) to only 2.8 feet for easy packing and transport. These stands have a black finish which reduces unwanted glare; three vertical sections (19mm, 16mm, 13mm), and three double-braced legs (16mm), which provide excellent stability in the studio or on location. They're topped with a standard 3/8" stud, with a 1/4" thread, type A. Sturdy as all get out, yet only weigh about 2.4 lbs. (so you can pack up a set of three stands for under 8 lbs. for location shoots - believe me, schlepping around anything much heavier can give you a hernia, especially when added to all your other gear). Yet these babies can be folded up and put in the corner of your closet and take up very little space. I've been using these same stands for about a year now, and couldn't be happier! You'll probably love 'em, too. They're sized perfectly for multiple uses: with a low height of 2.8 feet, they're great for background lighting; at their full 6.5 feet, they're perfect for eye level or lighting a sitting subject from above, or even for hairlights; and adjusting them anywhere in-between, they're perfect for the vast majority of subject-level lighting, whether you're photographing kids or people or things! BTW, as stated above, you'll be buying brand new stands here, NOT my used ones (those are mine! you can't have them; I like them, and I'm gonna keep them; you go buy your own! (hey, at this great price, buy several. :). Reality Check: Hey, if you're rich, I'd suggest buying a set of bigger, heavier (& more expensive) stands for your pro studio setup, and another set of lightweight stands for location shoots; but my studio is in my house, and I don't have 20 foot ceilings for the 15' stands anyway, so these stands work just fine for me. 6.5 feet is plenty high for most uses, and we have larger stands should you need more height. And they're sturdy enough for studio work, and light enough for location work. Realize, though, that these stands, while certainly a great deal and a marvelous value, are the working photog's blue collar equipment. Treat them with minimal respect, and they'll see you through to old age; but if you're looking for the Hope Diamond of light stands, go buy something else. This sturdy light stand is rated to hold a load of 10 pounds (but, personally, I try to keep the load under 9 lbs when it's fully extended) either way, it's likely to be able to hold darn near any moderate-size lighting unit you're using. Of course, there are bigger and heavier stands, too (just check my other auctions for the heavier-duty light stands). All the sections of these stands are quality tubular stock, NOT the cheapie solid ones (which are heavier and less versatile, as well as cheaper). The only "cheap" part of these stands is the price - not the quality!
Check out my other auctions! I usually have photo equipment, pro strobes, background systems, and other great photo stuff, etc. listed.
Guaranteed! These brand new, top quality, stands equal or surpass in quality many with retail list prices far higher (try double or triple and sometimes even more)! Go ahead, check with your local photo store(s). Bid responsibly, but with confidence. These units are 100% guaranteed to be brand new, with manufacturer's warrantee! You may return these stands (in new and undamaged condition, of course) within 7 days of receipt for a full refund (excluding shipping), if they are not exactly as described above in every way. Trust me, you'll love them! For literally hundreds of other, more impartial and objective opinions, check my feedback; and see what every other customer has had to say about these stands (as well as every other item I've ever sold), and my service, and my commitment to 100% customer satisfaction! Hey, us struggling photogs have to stick together, y'know (and all of us are always struggling - to make that elusive "perfect" photograph or vid, huh?). Thanks again for viewing this auction; feel free to e-mail any questions to me.

Remember, you're getting SIX of these great light stands!

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Here's some information about the items comprising
your new studio kit: The Backlight Stand!

Backlight Stand Now here's one of the best backlight stands I've ever come across. First of all, it comes apart and folds up into a tiny little package when you're not using it. Next, it's got some really neat extras, like the additional connector on one of its legs that allows us to connect another light or accessory to it, right where we'll need it, too (it's removable, too)! Whenever you need to light a large backdrop, you can use both of your great AS-32B Bare Bulb Strobes with this stand! And it's adjustable from a low of only 1.1 foot up to 3.3 feet. It's black, to reduce glare and interference, it has neat little rubber pads on all three of its feet, and comes with a standard light connector on top. Basically, this is the coolest backlight stand I've seen in a long time. Specifications: 3 Section pole: 22, 19, and 16mm tubular stock Weight: 2.9 lbs. Attachment: 5/8" stud with 1/4" thread, type B Base attachment: Type D

You're getting one of these Great Backlight Stands with this package.

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Here's some information about the items comprising
your new studio kit: The Deluxe TRIPLE-Capable Background Support Set

Fabulous New Deluxe Background Support System!

Extends to almost 12 feet high! Whatta Dream Package!

Here's a great background system all in one dynamite package! Not only can this system hold backgrounds / backdrops up to TWELVE Feet wide (it extends to 12.8 feet wide!), it can extend to almost 12 feet high, too! This system comes with a unique Triple background roll holder (but only one cross bar is included), so you can expand its capabilities as your needs may require in the future. This is a top-quality, heavy-duty background set, which can hold darn near anything you can put on it! Of course, you can use paper rolls, canvas, muslins, fabrics, or whatever your creative little heart desires (well, whatever you can figure out how to hold on a beautiful six section extendable background bar, anyway :). But wait! There's MORE! Yessiree folks, even mo'. Also included in this marvelous setup is a custom carrying case to hold all your new goodies, so you can pack it all up and stash it in the corner of a closet (when your spouse wants the living room back:), or take along on location shoots,

We all know (er, well, we all should know) how a different background (also called a backdrop) can completely change the look, feel, tone, and atmosphere of a shot. That's why there are backgrounds! Hey, this isn't the forum for a photography lesson, but just as a "quckie" (no, not THAT kind of a quickie ;-) to give you an idea, look at the pictures below; both are the same girl. Only one has a blue background, and the other has a green background. Look at her eyes. See? If you want to improve your pictures and videos, you might consider different backgrounds. If you choose to try this, you'll need something to hold the backdrops: ergo, background stands and systems!

Yeah, yeah, I can hear the purists already complaining about the lighting differences, but I ain't trying to make art here, nor is it a "lesson" but just an imperfect example, so keep quiet and make your own pictures/films; if you've got a better example, send it in (I'll use it!), OK? If not, then buy one of these great packages and make better photographs!

Here's what you'll get with this great new background package: 1) Two 408C compact background stands (11.8 feet) 2) One Background roll cross bar (opens to 12 feet wide) 3) Two three Background roll bar supports (triple holders for upgrading) 4) One Custom carrying case for entire system

The Specs: Support stands: 4 sections (25, 22, 19, and 16mm); Legs: 19mm; Extended: 11.8 feet (almost 12 feet high!); Closed: 3.5 feet Cross bar: 6 section pole; Extended: 12.8 feet; Closed: 3.5 feet; Will accept: 12 ft background rolls Multiple bar support hardware: upgradable to a 3 roll holder Of course, the backgrounds themselves (i.e., muslins, canvas, paper rolls, etc.) are not included with this great system.

IMPORTANT: This great Background System comes with 2 TRIPLE crossbar holders; this means that it's expandable (as your needs increase, so does its capabilities!). All you have to do to upgrade this Deluxe Background Set to a Double or Triple Background System is to acquire one or two more crossbars! Unlike the other dealers who try to "trick" you when selling you this same Background Support System as a "Triple" set, I always tell my (cherished) customers the whole truth 100% of the time. This set comes with ONE crossbar (from which you can hang one backdrop at a time), BUT can easily be expanded into a DOUBLE or TRIPLE background support set with the simple and inexpensive addition of one or two more crossbars. What's a "Triple Background System" you may ask? Well, this set is capable of holding THREE backgrounds - all at the same time! Check out it's possibilities HERE!

Pet Peeve2: BTW, unlike some other sellers I've run across, all my merchandise is in stock for immediate shipment! Back to the top

You're getting ONE Deluxe Background Support System with this great package

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Here's some information about the items comprising
your new studio kit: The Umbrellas & Accessories!

	WHITE/BLACK REFLECTION UMBRELLAS: 44" The White/Black umbrella is made of the new P-Satin clothes-PU bonding with high denier Satin. Their Black cover can achieve almost 100% light reflection rate and provide soft almost shadowless light, which is suitable for indirect and diffusive lighting. A wonderful method of softening the light. You're getting TWO of these huge umbrellas with this package. Technique: Photographers use these umbrellas to diffuse and soften light; in portraits, for example, this soft lighting very effectively hides many of the lines and wrinkles on the faces of our victims (umm, our "subjects" :), making them look younger and more vital. It's also great for photographing highly reflective surfaces, such as jewelry, glass, and chrome (it avoids the bright reflections that mess up our pictures). But don't let our clients know our little secrets, just accept their appreciation (along with your quickly-escalating fees), and let them believe it was your phenomenal photographic skill that made them (or their products) look so damn good! Look, you're spending a lot of time and money acquiring the equipment, and learning the skills of the photographic arts; you're becoming a skilled professional; your work is valuable as well as beautiful. Don't price yourself out of the market, certainly, but don't sell yourself cheap, either.
	Point of Information: BTW (which means "by the way" for any "newbies" paying us a visit), a "Reflection" umbrella is one that reflects the strobe's light back onto the subject, and thereby softens and diffuses the light. This technique is often used in portraits and for photographing reflective surfaces, and performs many beneficial services for all us hard-working, underpaid, and under-appreciated photographic artists. Keep it a secret from others, though, and let them think we get our beautiful images through some sort of esoteric magic, passed down through the centuries, from master to disciple. It helps increase our value ;-) - and please don't send me any e-mail explaining that photography hasn't been around for centuries, I know that. Duh (actually, photography in one form or another has been around for about a century and a half). Back to the top
	Silver / Gold Reflection Umbrella 32" The Gold & Silver umbrellas are made of high 300 denier black cover with PU coating. Inner surfaces are bonded with Silver and Gold aluminum metallic foil. The Gold side produces a lovely, warm reflected light that creates those warm, soft, healthy skin tones that are so desirable for portraiture, especially to help make our overworked and sunlight-deprived clients look a bit more tanned and healthy (and in many other areas of photography, too). As with all well-designed, and properly thought-out photographic packages, the accessories included with this great professional kit are those which the photographer needs most, so s/he can create the most effective and striking images for the majority of situations in which we find ourselves in today's world.
	H70- 150mm 6" Umbrella Reflectors Used alone for about 60º coverage, or with barn doors to control lighting spread, or with an umbrella to create soft and diffuse lighting. This custom reflector is designed with a special "slot" in it to allow for the use of an umbrella, without the need for a special umbrella holder accessory! A unique Britek innovation! This is usually the reflector that comes with the Britek SM-1250 Strobes, since they have an integral umbrella holder built in to the strobe's light stand connector. You get Five of these reflectors with your package.
	H70MM Snoot The Snoot provides a 30º concentrated light source for spot lighting or dramatic accents. Often used to "spotlight" a product, or a specific area of a photograph; often used for hairlights in people pictures. One of the photographer's "must have" accessories (for the SM-1250s).
	Medium Honeycomb This unit attaches to the end of the Snoot, above, and restricts the light beam to 15º as well as softening the light. Often used for hairlights and accent lights, as well as many other uses. Another one of the photographer's "must have" accessories (for the SM-1250s).
	Barndoors This unit attaches to the strobe's reflector. Barndoors are used by photographers to restrict and control light; wide, narrow, and anything in-between, can be easily achieved by moving the "doors" open or closed over your strobe (for the SM-1250s). You're getting two of these.
	Here's a great little accessory that all photographers always need more of: a panning light head with integral umbrella holder! You get 3 of these tilt & swivel bulb holders with this great 7 Strobe Kit (these are designed to hold your AS-32B and AS-66 strobes). It's hard to wax philosophic about a photographic accessory, but anyone who's ever worked with lights knows that these little tools are absolutely indispensable. For example, even a super-duper, antique, $100,000.00 table lamp isn't going to do anyone much good without a light bulb that works (you can't admire much when you're sitting in the dark, y'know). And these babies work, and keep on working. You'll need one of these for every standard e-27 Edison base strobe or continuous light you'll ever work with (the E-27 is the standard household light socket size, so you can use "regular" lights with it too, if need be). Plus, this little baby has an integral (built-in) umbrella holder, which saves you from having to buy an additional umbrella adapter, whenever we want to "bounce" the light off of (or through) an umbrella. You're getting 2 of these. Specifications: Single standard E-27 bulb socket On / Off switch 10 foot power cord 3/8" Stud for attaching to light stands Integral Umbrella Holder Technique: Which picture of this accessory was made when the light holder was very close to the background? C'mon, if you read the "technique" section in the BB-50 Strobe's description (above) you should be able to answer this one!
	Custom Light stand and Umbrella Carrying Case This custom high quality carrying bag is designed to hold all three of your light stands, AND both of your new Umbrellas! Don't tell anyone, but I somehow manage to pack in a few extra goodies whenever I really have to. UPGRADE: New larger light stand carrying case replaces current case at no extra charge! Top
	Custom Strobe and Accessories Carrying Case This custom-made high quality carrying case is designed to hold all four of your strobe lights, AND all your extra accessories, with room for more! It's heavily padded for the safety of your new toys, and has several removable panels and separators, which allow you to customize the interior to suit your ever-changing needs. Finally, a bag that fits!! UPGRADE: New larger strobe carrying case replaces current case at no extra charge!
You're also getting a great new 6' 8" X 9' Raw Muslin Background / Backdrop to start you off! This is a great starter background for those of us who are just begining to realize the importance of backdrops to good photography (see a sample of how backgrounds can affect your pictures, below). Raw muslin is a lovely cream color (sort of like this background color), and has been used in its raw state as a favorite of photographers for decades. Be aware that this is a brand new, top quality, 100% pure cotton muslin (unlike the cheap recycled and cotton blend so-called "muslins" that others have been selling online recently). Also, you can easily dye and/or paint raw muslin to create beautiful custom backgrounds that sell for up to $450.00! What IS a "Muslin" you may ask? Muslin is a type of cotton material that is light weight, easily hung, draped, stretched, folded, or rolled. It's easy to paint and dye, and relatively inexpensive. You'll likely acquire several different color muslins as your photographic needs advance. But if your budget won't stretch to buy additional backgrounds, you can add to your background creativity by using a bed sheet (iron it first, so all the wrinkles are gone), or a wall, or buy some cheap material at a local fabric store (avoid patterns and designs, they just detract from your subject). Set your victim (um, your "subject," that is:) at least 4-6 feet in front of your background (whatever it may be), and place your background strobe behind your subject (hidden from the camera's view, of course). Please note that this muslin does not come hemmed or with a loop sewn across the top (however, it's a simple matter to make a loop - to insert a background cross bar through - with a few safety pins (real photographers improvise:), or you can sew one yourself, if you're handy; but if you don't have a background support set, a loop won't be any use to you anyway). When you get more backgrounds/backdrops, you might consider acquiring a Background Support Set to hold them; but for now, just tape, thumbtack, or hang your muslin behind your victim (er, your "subject," that is:) in any convenient manner; nobody will know what you don't have in the final prints anyway. No need to spend a fortune to get great pictures, just be imaginative and creative with the equipment you have. Read some more about backgrounds....
Technique: The most important "secret" of good photography is the thought the photographer puts into a picture before s/he even considers what type of film to use! The point here is that we have to train ourselves to think before we shoot! What color is our subject? How can we make that color (or shade) stand out? Look at the example here, and see how the simple choice of using a background that matches our subject's eye color can improve our pictures. In the lovely picture to your left, notice how the blue-violet shadows to the right of the model's head accentuate her blue eyes. Notice, too how half the face is in a light shadow, adding depth and texture. We have to ask ourselves: What do we want to emphasize in our picture? How will we direct our viewers' eye to our subject? If it's an outdoors photograph, how will we separate our main subject from any other distracting elements in our photograph? At which angle should we shoot? Is it important to establish place in this photograph (i.e., is it important for the viewer to know where our subject is? Or do we want to hide the location)? If we're shooting people, what is our victim's least appealing feature (i.e., a large nose, a bald head, pot belly, lotsa wrinkles, etc.:)? How can we hide or de-emphasize it? What's our subject's most appealing feature (i.e., eyes, profile, smile, boobs - oops! sorry, I couldn't resist:) ? How can we emphasize the attractive aspects of our subjects? These are the questions photographers have to ask, before we shoot. THINK before you shoot! MAKE a photograph - don't "take" a snapshot! Learn to "design" your picture before you pick up your camera! Take a piece of paper and a pencil, and sketch out what you want in the picture you're considering; this will be a great help in the beginning, and after a few weeks or months of doing this, you'll start to do it all in your head, and won't need the pencil and paper any more. I promise you that a good photograph doesn't require the genius of an Einstein - it just takes a little thought and preparation (creativity and practice doesn't hurt either)! You don't have to study photography for 20 years, just train yourself to think before you shoot! Don't try to plan out 100 subjects all at once; think about one or two, and then use 10 rolls of film on just a few ideas. Shoot from different angles; shoot from different heights; shoot with different lighting angles; shoot with color film; shoot with black and white film; think, then shoot! Pretty soon, you'll wake up one day and realize that you've changed; you'll look at the world differently; you'll "see" things most people never even notice; one day, you'll realize that you've become something special; something different, but different in a most amazing and wonderful way; you will have become - a photographer! © 2002
You'll also be receiving a Sync Cord (also called a "PC" Cord), and a power cord for each and every one of your new HS-500 Pro Studio Strobes and SM-1250 Pro Strobes. And don't forget that all the SM-1250s as well as the AS-66 Mini-Strobes' Tilt/Swivel Bulb Holders have integral (built-in) umbrella holders, too! Everything you'll need is included, so when your new photographic equipment arrives, all you'll have to do is plug 'em in, and rock & roll (fire away)! Unlike some other lighting equipment which requires additional power supplies, light heads, and connector cables, this great A.C. kit comes 100% complete - no additional attachments or accessories are needed to use this equipment! I really HATE IT when I buy a new toy, and then when it arrives, I discover I can't use it because something else (usually at additional cost, too) is required before it will work! So I never to anything like that to my (beloved) customers. Don'tcha wish everybody was as considerate as that to their customers? So do I. =:-)

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Questions, questions, questions....

How can you sell brand new photographic equipment for such low prices? What shipping and payment options do you offer? How do I know I can trust you with my hard-earned money? What's your policy on customer service? Will these pro strobes work with my camera? With my digital camera? What if my camera is old? How do I contact you? If I live in Southern California; can I pick up the equipment myself? Will you offer more photographic equipment (than you have now)? Are your products guaranteed or warranted? What if I want certain equipment, but you don't have an auction with the equipment I want? Do you accept Lay-Away payment plans? Will you ship to Canada or Europe or Asia? What if I have some technical questions? Hey! Somebody else e-mailed me after I bid on your auction(s) and offered me a "deal" on cheaper equipment... and many more of your questions answered - just click below!

Answers, answers, answers....

You might like to check out some good books on lighting techniques.

Note: Although this rarely happens, sometimes item numbers or minor appearance differences may change, or new models replace older ones, as manufacturers alter, or update equipment, etc.; items are subject to change (but any changes or replacements will be with items of equal or greater capabilities - as you can clearly see with the BB-50 upgrade to the AS-32B, above).

Reality Check: Realize, that all this equipment, while certainly a fantastic deal and a marvelous value, is the working photog's blue collar photographic equipment; not the Hope Diamond. Treat this equipment with minimal respect, and it will see you through to old age; but if you're looking for Ferraris, you'd best go buy something else. At this price, this package is really good quality equipment and, unquestionably, a wonderful deal. It's all brand new stuff (not someone else's old, banged up, castoffs), and, of course, it comes with the manufacturer's full one year warrantee. For hundreds of more impartial, objective opinions, check my feedback and you'll see that everyone who bought this equipment loves it, and that includes me (yes, I use all these items myself, and it's done for me exactly what I bought it for: it's helped me make better photographs - MUCH better photographs, in many different circumstances; give it a fair shot, and it will almost certainly do the same for you!). I promise you, a whole new world of creativity will open up for you. Look at it like this: you start out walking (you've got a camera with a little built-in flash) or taking a bus (you got a dedicated flash unit for your camera - problem is, everybody's face comes out "flat" and usually with "red-eye" too; that's what you get with all on-camera flashes, which also cast those unsightly shadows behind our subjects); when you can afford it, you buy yourself a brand new car (hey, you deserve it, huh?) and start driving a new mid-priced or economy car (this equipment). Then, when your income increases, you can go buy a luxury car (you may not need one, but you can afford it if you want it); when you get rich and famous, you can go buy a Ferrari or a Maserati (if you want); but right now, an economy or mid-priced vehicle is a safe, comfortable, reliable, effective, and perfectly satisfactory mode of transportation, and a whole heck of a lot better than taking a bus or getting shoved around on a subway train (in fact, you just might decide that's all you need, and stick with these great lights from here on out)! Photographically, if you don't have at least a couple of entry-level strobes, you're a public transportation candidate. There's certainly nothin' wrong with that, but boy oh boy, it sure as heck limits your options (ever try taking your date out on a bus? It might get you there, but there ain't no way to cuddle - without getting arrested, anyway:)! In the end, only you can decide what's right for you; as the old saying goes: "You pays your money, and you takes your choice." Do what you think is best, and for goodness sake, don't spend more than you have to. I hope this helps, and answers many of the most common questions I get on this equipment. As I said, I use these exact same items, and I can find nothing whatsoever to complain about (and a whole lot to like); sure, there's more expensive stuff out there, but why pay for more than you need? Everyone has to start somewhere, and this equipment is a great way to get started, or add to your arsenal of photographic creativity, without requiring you to take out a second mortgage on your house. For more objective viewpoints, check my feedback and see what other buyers of this equipment had to say about it. Almost 400 customers love it so far; chances are, you will too. Back to the top

On sale for omly $1299.95! My Goodness, folks, you could spend that much (or even more) for just a strobe or two from a competing manufacturer! Comparable packages from other manufacturers run from $2,500.00 to $3,800.00 and often much more Back to the top

P.S. Check out my great Photographic web site HERE!

Note: To determine the reserve prices on ALL my reserve auctions, just look for the "Ladies and Gentlemen, Elvis has left the building..." line in any auction, and within a couple of text boxes above Elvis, you'll see the reserve price minimum clearly stated (unlike most other sellers, I don't keep secrets from my wonderful bidders:). Back to the top

"Ladies and Gentlemen, Elvis has left the building..."

As an eBay PowerSeller, a Billpoint PreferredSeller, and a PayPal "Verified" premier business seller, my (beloved) customers are safer, happier, and better off all around! :-) NO LIMITS: If you're a PayPal user, you no longer have that darn $1-2,000.00 limit every 6 months on your purchases when you order from me (unlimited credit)! If you're a Billpoint member, you will NOT have that annoying $500.00 per auction limit on your purchases when you buy from me (unlimited credit - and you can use Billpoint to pay for any purchase from me - unlike the limits you have with ordinary sellers)! You're ALWAYS better off buying from thesource3! Plus, your purchase is doubly guaranteed against fraud! Read more about your safeguards...

NOTE: You're welcome to pay with PayPal, BidPay, or Billpoint by credit card or electronic check. BidPay and Billpoint will allow folks from countries other than the USA to use credit cards, too (and when buying from me, you have no limits). For those not technologically