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We can see the difference between
the Modeling Light Bulb and the Flash Tube (the circular tube
surrounding the modeling bulb) in this close-up shot of the SM-1250's
business end (with the reflector removed, of course).
The modeling light is especially valuable to the amateur, because
it let's us "see" exactly where the light will fall
when the strobe flashes. This feature alone is worth at least
a hundred rolls of ruined film (which you'll save by having a
modeling light)! One of the major questions (and hesitations)
I had when I was beginning to learn photography, was "If
you use strobes, how do you know what the subject will look like,
or how and where the light will illuminate the subject, if you
don't have continuous lighting to judge by?"
The answer was really simple:
You don't. UNLESS your strobes also have MODELING LIGHTS! With
modeling lights, you can see exactly where the strobe's flash
will illuminate the subject, because the modeling light falls
on the subject the same as the strobe's light will fall on the
subject (less intensely, of course)! And this is why the pros
pay lotsa money for good strobes that come with modeling lights.
That's why the professional photographer's pictures look so much
better than ours do: they have the right equipment for the job!
They can CONTROL THE LIGHT! And now, so can you.
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| PhotoSpeak: What's a "Slave Sensor?"
Well, if you had to use a PC Cord for every strobe, just think
what a mess of tangled wires you'd have if you were using 5 or
6 or more strobes to light your subject (as many pros do)! So,
science came to our rescue with slave sensors. It's a tiny little
sensor built into most good strobes, that sits & waits for a
short, intense burst of light. When it detects this burst of
light (the flash from another strobe), it automatically sets
off the flash tube in the strobe its built into. Voila! Now,
with strobes that have slave sensors (often just called "slaves"),
we can connect only one strobe to our cameras (with the PC or
Sync cord), usually the strobe closest to our camera, and when
we press the shutter button, firing the one connected strobe,
that flash will automatically set off all the other strobes we
may be using for that shot! Ah, ain't technology wunnerful (sic)?
Even most of the little flashes built into most modern cameras
can set off most strobes with slaves. A strobe that has PC socket,
or both a PC Socket and a slave sensor is called a "Master"
strobe; a strobe that only has a slave sensor and no PC socket
(usually less expensive units) is called a "Slave."
Whichever strobe you're using with a PC cord is referred to as
your "master" strobe for purposes of that shot. Most
of the better strobes have both PC sockets and slave sensors,
so they're more versatile and useful to us (however, there are
many very good slaves out there today, and you won't need all
your strobes to be masters, so don't hesitate to buy some decent
slaves when the time comes - and, believe me, if you stick with
photography, the time will come). Back
down to AS120 |
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Complete:
Each of these SM-1250s comes complete with umbrella-capable reflector,
sync cord, AC cord, Flash Tube, Modeling Light, built-in umbrella
holder, and standard light stand connector; it's ready to plug
in and fire away! Many additional accessories are also available
for these units, whenever you're ready for them (e.g., snoots,
barn doors, softboxes, stands, unbrellas, honeycombs, gel holders,
etc.). BTW, pros use umbrellas to "bounce" the strobe's
light off of (or sometimes through) to make the light softer,
reduce or eliminate shadows, and "mellow-out" the picture.
Softboxes are also great for this purpose (yes, softboxes are
also available). Simply plug this great light into any 110 v
AC plug, and you're on your way to great pictures (DC units also
available)! Free photo education and tips are included (when
our new web site comes online soon; you'll automatically be notified
if you win an auction).
These are brand new, 100% guaranteed,
with full manufacturer's warrantee . These are NOT seconds, blemishes,
or anything other than brand new, absolutely perfect, current
2000 models! Just 'cause the price is great, doesn't mean these
are in any way less than perfect! Want more strobes, light
stands, umbrellas, softboxes, and other goodies? Additional units
and accessories are always available; just e-mail any questions
or requests, to me at wryter@usa.net --These strobes and other photographic equipment
also come with an "extra" that's not available anywhere
else, at any price whatsoever: FREE photographic education, advice
and training from MyPhotoHome.com
(coming soon to a computer near you)! MPH Members also get FREE
web space (to post your own pictures), and much, much more (when
MyPhotoHome.com comes online, shortly).
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Point of Information:
Why, you might be asking yourself, have virtually all photographers
switched to using strobes, when "regular" continuous
lights (photographers call them "hot" lights) are everywhere,
and it's easier for us to see how the lighting will look with
them? Well, the continuous lights, like the ones in our houses
(tungsten lights), or halogen (and similar) are called "hot
lights" for a reason: they get hot. Really hot! And
the special photographic hot lights get twice as hot as household
bulbs! This tends to make certain things, like flowers, foods,
animals, and those darn pesky models, wilt. Especially models.
They get very, very, unhappy when they wilt. Whine, gripe, groan;
you'd think a little melting makeup, and running mascara, limp
hair, and sticky lipstick, and beads of sweat running down their
lovely curvaceous (umm, let's say noses) was a big deal or something,
the way they complain! ;-)
Next, there's a little problem
with the "color temperature" being way off with hot
lights, so we have to use special films (3200K or 3400K) or filters,
or special photographic bulbs, when using them (strobes are perfectly
balanced at 5500K to simulate sunlight, so we can use all the
regular daylight films we've come to love/hate over the years).
You'll notice that most of your pictures taken indoors without
using a flash turn out with a yellowish color cast; that's because
household lights are loaded with yellow and red light. The solution
is to either use special films, or special filters. But why create
more problems for yourself? Using strobes eliminates all these
headaches (and heat!). Also, with continuous lights, they're
always shining; usually right in our subject's eyes, causing
squinting and annoyance (and ugly looking pictures). With strobes,
nothing is shining in their eyes, and the flash is too short
to cause any of this discomfort to our beloved subjects (until
AFTER the flash, when they might be chasing all those little
light blips around the room:). Additionally, with strobes, we
can control the light much better! We can adjust the power output
with the flick of a switch. We can modify the light with umbrellas,
softboxes, softcases, filters, scrims and gobos, doo-dahs, and
thingamajigs, etc., etc. We can direct the light with barn doors,
snoots, honeycombs, and many other accessories. In short, with
strobes, we can play God with our photography; WE CAN CONTROL
THE LIGHT! And we can do it 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, whenever
we want, no matter what the weather is, and without regard to
daylight or night. There are yet other, more esoteric, as well
as mundane reasons why strobes are the preferred means of photographic
lighting in the modern world, but we'll pass on those things
for now. You've probably had enough information shoved down your
throat already (sorry, but I can't resist trying to educate everyone
about photography).
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