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The Exciting, BRAND NEW, 2002 Britek BB-100 Pro Studio Flash

The NEW BB-100 Strobe This brand new Britek BB-100 is a great starter light for the beginning professional, the pro with tight budget constraints, or the advanced amateur who is ready to bring the professional look to his or her photographs (without mortgaging the house). Why are photogs so in love with their studios? BECAUSE (in our studios) WE CAN CONTROL THE LIGHT! And a "studio" can be a corner of any room, as long as we can CONTROL THE LIGHT. In our studios, we can play God! We can make it daytime or evening or night; we can shoot 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. We can CREATE anything we can imagine - as long as we can CONTROL THE LIGHT!

After all, the word "photographer" itself (from Greek) actually means Light Writer, or "one who writes with light." The term is meaningful because those of us who make photographs are slaves to light. Light is both our nemesis and our salvation (when we can control the light). Without the right types of lighting equipment, we can never progress to professional level studio pictures. Or location pictures. Sure, we can make beautiful photos with available light... when the light's just right, at the exact time we need it, and at exact place we need it, if it's not raining, if it's not snowing, if it's not too cold, if it's not too hot, if it's not too dark, if everyone we need to make the photographs are available at the exact time the light's just right for our needs, under all the right conditions.... beginning to see now? When we can control the light, we can make the best photographs.

PhotoSpeak: BTW, did you notice, above, that I said "make" photographs, and not "take" pictures? Well, here's your first lesson in how pros speak about photography (photospeak): "Snapshooters" or "point and shooters," who don't think and plan their shots (e.g., most of us) are the ones who "take" pictures (the rank amateurs). Photographers "make" great photographs by careful thought, detailed planning, and, most of all, scrupulous attention to lighting. Before they even think about pressing that shutter, they "design" their photos carefully. Soon, with a little effort, you'll be "making" great photographs! It's not that hard, believe me. But ya gotta CONTROL THE LIGHT!

This little beauty cranks out a full 80/90 effective watt seconds* for mamma or poppa (or both)! Why do photographers want powerful flash equipment (strobes)? Because (both indoors and outdoors) with strobes, WE CAN CONTROL THE LIGHT! Sound familiar? Starting to get the picture, now? (sorry, I just couldn't resist ;-) Hmmm... Light! What the heck is a "Watt Second?" And what's a "GN?"

Need more information about the equipment in this auction? Care to see more pictures of the item(s)? Want to know your payment and shipping choices? Would you like to check out my eBay store? Wanna see what over 500 other eBay bidders think of the equipment and service? You're only a click away!

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More about the new BB-100.....

As we can see from this top view the new BB-100 allows us to control the power level output (full or half power), use a sync cord or control it via the slave sensor, lets us test its functioning via the test button, use or remove the reflector, and has a safety fuse to protect it from power surges. You get it ALL with this great new unit!

This is a Fabulous deal, but let's not lose sight of the reality. If you're rich, have a sugar-mommy or daddy, are a high-income pro, or if you can get financing, my advice would be to spring for something (several somethings, in fact) more powerful, more feature-rich (and a LOT more expensive). Lights are like hard disks and internet connections: no matter how big a hard disk is, and no matter how fast your net connection is, they're never big or fast enough. But if you're just starting out, or are on a budget, or are an advanced (or advancing) amateur, these little babies sure make a lot of sense. Let's face it, your portrait clients (or your mother-in-law) won't have any idea whether you paid three hundred or three thousand for each of these strobes; they'll just be impressed (let them think they cost you an arm and a leg; especially those snooty, skinny, little models - "Ya want great head shots, sweetie? It's gonna cost ya; hell, my lights are so valuable, whenever I trade one in, I gotta pay it alimony!") Umm, just some photographer humor, folks :) - it sorta grows on you as you progress in photography; you'll see.

Here's another view of this fabulous new flash; for this picture, however, the removable reflector has been removed. Used without the reflector, the BB-100 pumps out a wide, 180 degree light - perfect for when we want to cover a wide area, such as for lighting our backdrop. You'll notice the variable power switch, and perhaps wondering "Why would we want to reduce a strobe's power output? " For the answer, see the "technique" section, below. As we can see from this view, with the reflector removed, the New BB-100 is well-stocked with controls and comes with many of the extras already built-in. With these units, everything you'll need to start working with them is included; the strobe itself, flash tube, a removable reflector, a Tilt/Swivel Bulb Holder, power cord, and a sync cord; just plug them in, and fire away! The "ready" light goes on to let us know when the strobe is charged and ready to fire; the "test" button lets us fire the strobe to test its proper functioning; the "sync" terminal lets us attach a sync (or PC) cord to the sync terminal on our cameras to control the firing of the strobe with the shutter button on our cameras; and the "optical slave sensor" lets us fire the strobe automatically with the flash of any other strobe or flash unit.

This unit can be fired by the PC Cord (included, of course), the Test Button, or the optical Slave Sensor (which means that any other flash, even your camera's little built-in flash, can automatically fire this unit by it's light alone, so you don't even need to use a sync (PC) cord unless you want to). BTW, a "PC Cord" (Push Contact), also called a "Sync Cord" is a wire that connects the strobe to your camera, and fires the strobe when you press the camera's shutter button. Back to top of page

PhotoSpeak: What's a "Slave Sensor?" Well, if you had to use a PC Cord for every strobe, just think what a mess of tangled wires you'd have if you were using 5 or 6 or more strobes to light your subject (as many pros do)! So, science came to our rescue with slave sensors. It's a tiny little sensor built into most good strobes, that sits & waits for a short, intense burst of light. When it detects this burst of light (the flash from another strobe), it automatically sets off the flash tube in the strobe its built into. Voila! Now, with strobes that have slave sensors (often just called "slaves"), we can connect only one strobe to our cameras (with the PC or Sync cord), usually the strobe closest to our camera, and when we press the shutter button, firing the one connected strobe, that flash will automatically set off all the other strobes we may be using for that shot! Ah, ain't technology wunnerful (sic)? Even most of the little flashes built into most modern cameras can set off most strobes with slaves. A strobe that has PC socket, or both a PC Socket and a slave sensor is called a "Master" strobe; a strobe that only has a slave sensor and no PC socket (usually less expensive units) is called a "Slave." Whichever strobe you're using with a PC cord is referred to as your "master" strobe for purposes of that shot. Most of the better strobes have both PC sockets and slave sensors, so they're more versatile and useful to us (however, there are many very good slaves out there today, and you won't need all your strobes to be masters, so don't hesitate to buy some decent slaves when the time comes - and, believe me, if you stick with photography, the time will come).

Complete: Each of these BB-100s comes complete with a removable reflector, sync cord, AC cord, Flash Tube, Tilt/Swivel Bulb Holder with a built-in umbrella holder, and standard light stand connector; it's ready to plug in and fire away! Since these strobes are A.C. units, they're ready to rock! No batteries or powerpacks or light heads or connector cords are needed; just plug 'em in, and (just like Elvis) you're ready to rock and roll. These are brand new, 100% guaranteed, with the manufacturer's full one year warrantee . These are NOT seconds, blemishes, or anything other than brand new, absolutely perfect, current 2002 models! Just 'cause the price is great, doesn't mean these are in any way less than perfect! Questions? Requests? just e-mail any questions or requests, to me at PhotoSource3@pss3.com or check out-my web sites see links here.-These strobes and other photographic equipment also come with an "extra" that's not available anywhere else, at any price whatsoever: FREE photographic education, advice and training from MyPhotoHome.com (coming soon to a computer near you)! MPH Members also get FREE web space (to post your own pictures), and much, much more (when MyPhotoHome.com comes online, shortly).

Point of Information: Why, you might be asking yourself, have virtually all photographers switched to using strobes, when "regular" continuous lights (photographers call them "hot" lights) are everywhere, and it's easier for us to see how the lighting will look with them? Well, the continuous lights, like the ones in our houses (tungsten lights), or halogen (and similar) are called "hot lights" for a reason: they get hot. Really hot! And the special photographic hot lights get twice as hot as household bulbs! This tends to make certain things, like flowers, foods, animals, and those darn pesky models, wilt. Especially models. They get very, very, unhappy when they wilt. Whine, gripe, groan; you'd think a little melting makeup, and running mascara, limp hair, and sticky lipstick, and beads of sweat running down their lovely curvaceous (umm, let's say noses) was a big deal or something, the way they complain! ;-) Next, there's a little problem with the "color temperature" being way off with hot lights, so we have to use special films (3200K or 3400K) or filters, or special photographic bulbs, when using them (strobes are perfectly balanced at 5500K to simulate sunlight, so we can use all the regular daylight films we've come to love/hate over the years). You'll notice that most of your pictures taken indoors without using a flash turn out with a yellowish color cast; that's because household lights are loaded with yellow and red light. The solution is to either use special films, or special filters. But why create more problems for yourself? Using strobes eliminates all these headaches (and heat!). Also, with continuous lights, they're always shining; usually right in our subject's eyes, causing squinting and annoyance (and ugly looking pictures). With strobes, nothing is shining in their eyes, and the flash is too short to cause any of this discomfort to our beloved subjects (until AFTER the flash, when they might be chasing all those little light blips around the room:). Additionally, with strobes, we can control the light much better! We can adjust the power output with the flick of a switch. We can modify the light with umbrellas, softboxes, softcases, filters, scrims and gobos, doo-dahs, and thingamajigs, etc., etc. We can direct the light with barn doors, snoots, honeycombs, and many other accessories. In short, with strobes, we can play God with our photography; WE CAN CONTROL THE LIGHT! And we can do it 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, whenever we want, no matter what the weather is, and without regard to daylight or night. There are yet other, more esoteric, as well as mundane reasons why strobes are the preferred means of photographic lighting in the modern world, but we'll pass on those things for now. You've probably had enough information shoved down your throat already (sorry, but I can't resist trying to educate everyone about photography).

BTW, technically speaking, all professional photographic flash units, even though nearly all pros call them "strobes," are not technically strobe lights. A real stroboscope is capable of dozens (or hundreds or even thousands) of flashes per second, and many can maintain that flash rate for hours on end. Our photographic strobes would die a dozen deaths if we tried to set them off 25 or 50 times a second! However, since photographers almost always call these lights "strobes," we'll just stick with the term; but, technically..... Well, you get the idea ;-> Back to top

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Need more information about the equipment in this auction? Care to see more pictures of the item(s)? Want to know your payment and shipping choices? Would you like to check out my eBay store? Wanna see what over 500 other eBay bidders think of the equipment and service? You're only a click away!

Tell me more about this equipment | Contact info Payment & Shipping options | E-mail Me | See my Feedback profile See my eBay Store | See ALL my eBay auctions!

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Technique: Why would we want to dim a strobe to 1/2 power? Because in order to get great pictures, we have to be able to control the light (sound familiar?) in a number of ways. Sometimes a full power flash is too powerful for the effect we're after; other times we may want to reduce the illumination to create a different mood. In people pictures, for a head shot (that's what photographers call a picture of a person's face, often the face and shoulders), we often want part of the face highlighted, and the other part of the face in a light to medium shadow. This interplay of light and shadow is called "modeling," and is a hallmark of good photography. Anyway, as an example, a common lighting ratio for people pictures is a 1:2 (also 1:3, 1:4, or even 1:5) ratio - full illumination on one side of the face, and 1/2 that amount of light on the other side of the subject's face (we rarely want full frontal lighting, because it gives the face a flat and unappealing look, as well as other negative aspects). The 1:2 (full/half) lighting combination can give us an interesting and often flattering image, with a good ratio of light and shadow - revealing the character, and giving us depth and texture (but be sure to play around with other lighting ratios, too, for even more creativity). Whenever we have two strobes to work with, we can achieve this 1:2 ratio by moving one strobe (the one providing the shadow side lighting) twice as far away from the subject as our main light (the strobe providing the full illumination). But often things get in the way, like walls and such; not all of us have lots of room in our studios (especially living room studios :) to move our lights as far away as we like. Aha! The scientific wizards devised a most convenient solution! A variable-power strobe (like this great BB-100)! Now, instead of moving lights all over the place, all we have to do is flip a switch, and Voila! 1/2 power without any hassle at all! In some very powerful strobes, we might even find variations from full power, all the way down to 1/32 power. Another way to achieve a lighting ratio (when we only have one strobe) is to use a reflector to "bounce" some light onto the shadow side of the subject's face. You can buy a "professional" reflector for as much as $100.00 or more, but I just use a white poster board, which you can find at any art supply store for under two bucks. You don't have to spend a fortune to make great pictures, just use your equipment to its fullest extent - and use your head! Back up to the BB-100 description

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Q. What the heck is a "WS" and what's a "GN," and what in the world do they mean? .

WS = Watt Second | GN = Guide Number Here's a brief explanation (using, for this example, a PS-300 strobe, which has a power level of 150WS, and a GN of 150): The "150WS" (or the 80WS, or 20WS, etc.) is the output power of your strobe and a watt second is equal to the electrical term "joules," a high-falutin power level. The Guide Number (GN) of these PS-300 units is also 150 (for ASA/ISO 100 film), with a standard reflector. Often, the Watt Second power output is close to the guide number. What good is knowing the guide number? Well, the GN gives us a method of calculating exposure (for any strobe and any film) in this way: to calculate the correct approximate exposure for any subject at any distance, simply divide the distance (in feet) that the subject is from the strobe, into the strobe's GN (guide number); the result is our approximate "F" stop. For example, (presuming you're using ISO/ASA 100 film), our GN is 150, and the subject is 12 feet away, then: 150 (GN) divided by 12 (feet away from the subject) = 12.5, so we'd use an exposure setting of just over F11. If our subject is 8 feet away, then: 150 divided by 8 = 18.75 which would give us an approximate F stop of just over 16. See? Umm, if you don't understand it, don't worry about it (it took me years to fully comprehend). Suggestion: If you're serious about improving your photography, you should consider getting a handheld flash/ambient light meter see links here (sorry, I don't carry any at this time, but I do offer some suggestions on my web site). Back up to the BB-100 description ------------------- Back to top of page

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Free photographic tips & tricks

Technique: The most important "secret" of good photography is the thought the photographer puts into a picture before s/he even considers what type of film to use! The point here is that we have to train ourselves to think before we shoot! What color is our subject? How can we make that color (or shade) stand out? Look at the example here, and see how the simple choice of using a background that matches our subject's (blue) eye color can improve our pictures. In the lovely picture to your left, notice how the blue-violet shadows to the right of the model's head accentuate her blue eyes. Notice, too how half the face is in a light shadow, adding depth and texture. We have to ask ourselves: What do we want to emphasize in our picture? How will we direct our viewers' eye to our subject? If it's an outdoors photograph, how will we separate our main subject from any other distracting elements in our photograph? At which angle should we shoot? Is it important to establish place in this photograph (i.e., is it important for the viewer to know where our subject is? Or do we want to hide the location)? If we're shooting people, what is our victim's least appealing feature (i.e., a large nose, a bald head, pot belly, lotsa wrinkles, etc.:)? How can we hide or de-emphasize it? What's our subject's most appealing feature (i.e., eyes, profile, smile, boobs - oops! sorry, I couldn't resist:) ? How can we emphasize the attractive aspects of our subjects? These are the questions photographers have to ask, before we shoot. THINK before you shoot! MAKE a photograph - don't "take" a snapshot! Learn to "design" your picture before you pick up your camera! Take a piece of paper and a pencil, and sketch out what you want in the picture you're considering; this will be a great help in the beginning, and after a few weeks or months of doing this, you'll start to do it all in your head, and won't need the pencil and paper any more. I promise you that a good photograph doesn't require the genius of an Einstein - it just takes a little thought and preparation (creativity and practice doesn't hurt either)! You don't have to study photography for 20 years, just train yourself to think before you shoot! Don't try to plan out 100 subjects all at once; think about one or two, and then use 10 rolls of film on just a few ideas. Shoot from different angles; shoot from different heights; shoot with different lighting angles; shoot with color film; shoot with black and white film; think, then shoot! Pretty soon, you'll wake up one day and realize that you've changed; you'll look at the world differently; you'll "see" things most people never even notice; one day, you'll realize that you've become something special; something different, but different in a most amazing and wonderful way; you will have become - a photographer! © 2001

Quickie Photographic Technique #3: Portraits - Set the camera at subject's eye level; focus on the eyes; light one side of the face brighter than the other (half in light to medium shadow); to hide wrinkles use umbrellas or softbox/softcase; to further hide wrinkles, use a "soft focus" filter (it works like magic!); to de-emphasize a large nose, raise camera level slightly and shoot full or 3/4 face (also use longer lens); to de-emphasize a receding hairline, lower camera slightly or have subject raise head slightly. More "quickie technique" information will be included in my other auction descriptions. Thank you for viewing this auction, and good luck!

From whom should you buy your photographic equipment? Hey, it's your hard-earned money, so you should buy from anybody you darn well like! However, one of the advantages of buying from another photographer is that, unlike "salesmen," who just want to "sell" things to you, a photographer will know what you need, and what you don't need; a photographer will know why you'll need something, and why you won't need something; a photographer will have actually used the equipment being sold, and will be able to offer advice based on real-life experience. Of course, the facts that photographers (like us) are usually much better-looking, a lot smarter, definitely kinder, and unquestionably much more creative than other folks, doesn't hurt either, does it? ;-) Unlike the others who try to cover up their own photographic ineptitude with not-so-vague warnings warning you against buying from anyone else (anyone but them, that is:), I won't stoop to such reprehensible behavior; I guess I'm just not greedy enough to do such things. In addition, I trust you to be smart enough to make up your very own mind, without my self-serving advice, telling you who you should and shouldn't patronize. Sure, I'm in business to sell photographic equipment, but I'd rather lose a few sales than insult my customers' intelligence with admonitions like: "Buy from me! Don't buy from the other guy!" So go ahead and check out what's available, compare prices, quality, and customer service philosophies see links here; see who you think will provide more help and support. Then, check out the feedback profiles; go look to see what the other "photographic experts" were selling a few months ago (that'll be a revelation:). Next visit the web sites see links here, of your potential suppliers (especially those who claim to be photographers with "100 years experience," and see how much they really know about photography). Then, in addition to the usual, logical, informed, procedures for making your purchasing decisions, check with the old standby that's almost always right, your gut feelings. Do your homework; make up your own mind. Then, without doubt, you'll surely come to the right conclusion. [However, - just in the interest of saving you time and trouble ;-) the conclusion you'll surely come to is that "PhotoSource3" on eBay (who is also the beloved founder and talented creator of MyPhotoHome.com and Photographer's SupplyStation see links here) is "Da Man" from whom to buy your photographic goodies! =:-) ] Thank you for being kind enough to view this auction (I hope you realize that my humor is intended to be fun, and is meant with kindness), may you have the best of luck, and don't forget, as always, no matter who you choose to honor with your photographic purchases, take (or better yet, "make") lots of great pictures! And remember, you can't get good - unless you get started. Back to top

"Ladies and Gentlemen, Elvis has left the building..."
Well, folks, that's it for the goodies. Now for the details:

Shipping & handling is only $18.80 (in continental USA) for ground delivery of first strobe; if you bid on and win more than one, add $14.75 for 2nd unit and above. Other shipping methods available (UPS 3 Day Select, Next Day Air or Fed Express, etc.), buyer chooses. If you want a shipping quote, feel free to e-mail me. Payments by credit cards, cashier's checks and money orders shipped immediately; personal & business checks are welcome, but order will be held until check clears (5-10 business days). Taxable for California residents only. Thank you for taking the time to view this auction, may you have best of luck, and happy bidding!!

BTW, if you should ever outgrow this light (unlikely, because photographers can always use all the lights we can get), but if you do, you can either trade it in on the new ones, or sell it (maybe even right here on eBay) - and at the amazingly low price you'll get these strobes for in this PhotoSource3 auction, you'll almost certainly be able to sell it/them for much more than you paid for it! So unlike that great computer we're all using right now (which will be almost worthless, for resale purposes, in 6 months or a year), these lights will retain a good portion of their value if or when you're ready to move on. This auction is for individuals only! No dealer sales.

Guaranteed! This brand new, top quality, strobe equals or surpasses those with retail list prices far higher! Go ahead, check with your local photo store(s). Bid responsibly, but with confidence. These items are 100% guaranteed to be brand new, with the full manufacturer's warantee (one year)! You may return this light (in new and undamaged condition, of course) within 7 days of receipt for a full refund (excluding shipping and a 20% restocking fee), if it is not exactly as described above in every way. Trust me, you'll love it! For literally hundreds of more objective opinions, check my feedback see links here; and see what every other customer has had to say about this strobe (as well as every other item I've ever sold), and about my service, and my commitment to 100% customer satisfaction! Hey, us struggling photogs have to stick together, y'know (and all of us are always struggling - to make that elusive "perfect" photograph, huh?). Thanks again for viewing this auction, and best of luck to you; feel free to e-mail any questions to me see links here, and may the photographic Gods smile upon you! Umm, a nice present from the Lottery Gods wouldn't hurt, either, huh? :-) For answers to common questions, read my FAQ see links here.

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As an eBay PowerSeller, a Billpoint PreferredSeller, and a PayPal "Verified" premier business seller, my customers are safer, happier, and better off all around! :-) If you're a PayPal user, you no longer have that darn $1-2,000.00 limit every 6 months on your purchases when you order from me (unlimited credit)! If you're a Billpoint user (your credit is unlimited again), you will NOT have that annoying $500-1,000.00 per auction limit on your purchases when you buy from me, and even if you're new to Billpoint, there's NO waiting or verification delays whatsoever, so your order can be shipped immediately (and you can use Billpoint to pay for any purchase from me - unlike the limits you have with ordinary sellers)! You're ALWAYS better off buying from PhotoSource3! Plus, your purchase is doubly guaranteed against fraud! Read more about your safeguards...see links here Hey, with all these options and safeguards, as well as phenomenal prices and photographic expertise, you must ask yourself one question: "Who da man?" ;-) PhotoSource3 be da man, of course! Duh!

NOTE: You're welcome to pay with PayPal, Billpoint, or BidPay by credit card or electronic check. Billpoint and BidPay will allow folks from countries other than the USA to use credit cards, too. For those not technologically inclined, snail mail (i.e. the post office) will also work just fine. See all your payment and shipping options see links here. I hope this helps provide enough alternatives for you (if not, feel free to send in your suggestions; e-mail me. One of the differences between me and the big guys, is the fact that I'm always willing to do whatever I possibly can to help out my customers in whatever ways are needed. Here's my philosophy on "Customer Service" see links here. Will I ship to Canada and other countries? Sure I will! But see links here before placing an out-of-the-USA bid. Basically, if you're willing to pay the increased shipping charges, then I'll probably be happy to ship to you.

P.S. Check out my great Photographic Auctions!

Check out my other auctions!

Feel free to contact me with any questions: PhotoSource3@pss3.com - or - wryter@pacbell.net

© 2001 RMorgan/Adam Publishing Co./Wryter All Wrights Wreserved Worldwide! So there! ;-)

BB-100s a-f
BB50-100	BB-50