| Photo tip #56: This is perhaps the most important piece
of photographic advice I can give to any photographer, amateur
or professional (but especially amateurs), so pay attention,
gentle reader, pay attention! There are few things more frustrating
than getting back your prints or reviewing your video footage
(regardless of whether it's film, video, or digital) and finding
an image or video segment that's absolutely wonderful; everything
is perfect, the lighting, the shadows, the exposure, the background
- absolutely everything is fantastic; everything is phenomenal;
everything is exquisite beyond description - and then saying
to yourself: "How did I do that?" The moral of this
story? KEEP NOTES! Write down your settings (camera, lens, shutter
speed, aperture, film used, distance from subject, lighting setup,
meter readings, etc.)! I know, I know, it's a hassle; it's like
backing up your important computer files every day. Nobody likes
to do it. But we all should. Here's what I did: after going through
this situation at least a dozen times, I started keeping great
notes, and whenever a "perfect" picture came in, I'd
make an extra print of it, and place the image into a scrapbook,
where I wrote down all the settings, right under the picture.
After a while, I had a couple hundred of these images and data
in my scrapbook. Now, whenever I want a certain effect for a
picture, all I do is flip through my scrapbook, find an image
with the effect I want, and all the information I need to set
up my equipment is right there! Hey, when you're working (or
paying models by the hour), being able to get perfect exposures
- quickly - is money in the bank (and it's also impressive to
your subjects, too)! You have to remember that in addition to
being a photographer, you're also a business person, and
time is money! If you're doing product photography, the more
shots you get in a day, the more money you make. If you're doing
portraits, the more portraits you finish in a day, the more money
you make. The more images you make per portrait session, the
more prints you'll sell to your subjects. So take a bit of advice:
KEEP GOOD NOTES! Or do like I did: get one of Minolta's new Maxxum
7 cameras that will automatically save all this information (and
more!) for you for every exposure (awright, so I'm lazy:). Back to top of page |
| Web Surfing Tips: Is the type on any web page too small for comfortable reading? Just hold down the Control key and type in the + sign (or in Macs, Command +), and all the type gets bigger and easier to read - just keep punching the + key until the type is at a comfortable size for you (to go back to the smaller size, just type Control or Command and - the minus sign). Want to keep one web page you're on open when you click on a link to see another web page? Just hold down the Control (or Command) key when you click on a link, and a new browser page or tab will open up, keeping the original page open behind it. |
|
The Business of Photography - Selling more and making more money is fairly easy if you just follow these suggestions. .Selling Portraits: We have our portrait session where we make dozens and dozens of exposures (sometimes, we might even take a hundred pictures or more in a portrait session; especially if we're working with a family or group). Then, we send our clients home, telling them that we'll call them as soon as their prints come back. We then send the film or disk to our lab and have them make contact sheets for us; when we receive the contact sheets from the lab, we carefully examine each image, and pick out the very best 5 or 10 or 20 images (we never let our clients see ALL the images - there are always a bunch of exposures that turn out terrible)! There are those pictures where the client's eyes are closed (everybody blinks, and sometimes they blink just when we press that shutter button:); in other shots, the client moves their head or glances away and messes up our carefully-designed lighting. So we pick out the very best ten or twenty images out of all the pictures we made during the portrait sitting. The client never sees the imperfect images, only the very best of all our shots. Then, we have our lab make an 11 x 14 print of the best image, and then we have the next 5-10 best images made into 8 x 10 prints for us. The, we make 4 x 6 prints of perhaps about next 3-5 best images from the session. We then put the 11 x 14 print and maybe 3-4 of the 8 x 10 prints into beautiful frames. We set up all the pictures in our studio and call the client in to see all these lovely images (or we bring the pictures to our client's home or office for viewing). Of course, there are some portrait sessions wherein we make only a few pictures; perhaps a business executive wants one picture of himself for the company annual report, and isn't interested in any additional shots. But even then, always make at least a dozen exposures; that way we're sure of getting at least a couple of good images (just try to imagine how embarrassing it would be to call our client and tell him/her that we have to do the session all over again because none of the two or three pictures we took turned out good enough). Why the frames? Because we also make quite a nice profit on selling picture frames, as well as pictures (albums, too)! The client ends up seeing only the most beautiful images (and thinks we're phenomenally-talented photographic artists:). They see how wonderful the pictures look in the lovely frames, and end up ordering lots of prints, and lots of frames. Always ask the client if grandma and grandpa would like some prints; after the client orders the 11 x 14s, 8 x 10s, 5 x 7s and 4 x 6 prints, always ask how many wallet-sized prints they would like. Write up a great order! Make a lot of money by making a lot of people very happy. Can you think of any better way to make a living? And, unless you're a gynecologist, in what other profession can you ask a magnificently beautiful girl (or guy, depending upon your outlook:) who you've only just met, to take off her clothes, and have her do so quickly and happily? Huh? AND get paid for doing it! Damn, I love photography! :-) BTW, no matter what your models may look like, always tell them they're beautiful/handsome; it makes them feel good about themselves, helps them loosen up for the camera, and is absolutely true - everyone has beauty, if only we have the eyes to see it. And therein lies the secret of every great photographer: he/she has developed the "photographic vision," the eyes to see the beauty in everything. Buy a copy of Popular Photography, and every other photographic magazine you can find. Look for the ads that all the custom labs always have running in these magazines; also find the ads for wholesale suppliers of picture frames, albums, calendars, custom mugs, and poster-size prints. Call, e-mail, visit the web sites, or write to every supplier and ask for their wholesale price lists. Choose the labs and photographic suppliers you like, and compare prices and delivery times. Try out a few different sources, and after a while you'll have your favorite suppliers. You'll find that the prints and other supplies are surprisingly inexpensive, and you'll have a truly great markup for your profit. Wham, bam, you're on your way to a fun, creative, and wonderfully rewarding way to make a living doing something you love. What more can we ask out of life? OK, someone to love, perhaps? If you haven't met him/her yet, there are few better ways to find new friends (and lovers:) than through photography (after all, making people look great tends to impress them favorably, right?). So give it a shot; there's no
downside; if it works for you as a profession, great! If not,
at the very least, you'll have a wonderful and creative hobby
(along with the admiration of your friends and family). And at
best, becoming a successful photographer means fame, fortune,
and world travel; and the joys of the artistic creativity that
accompanies such success aren't too difficult to learn to live
with, huh? And don't forget about all the exquisitely beautiful
/ handsome models you'll be "forced" to work with,
either! :) Hey, it's a tough job, but somebody has to do it,
right? Life has few guarantees, but one thing you can be absolutely
certain about is this: you can't possibly succeed unless you
try. |
|
|
| Technique: Which background should
we use? That's a question
with a million answers; the answer is: It depends. It depends
upon what effect we're after, which mood we wish to create, how
we choose to present our victim (um, er, our "subject,"
that is:) to the world. But there are a few basic guidelines
we can follow. If our victim has striking blue eyes, for example
(blue, brown, or whatever color, if their eyes are beautiful,
use a backdrop with similar colors), but for this discussion,
if our subject has beautiful brown eyes, consider a background
with browns, tans, or golds as a prominent color. If our victim
has wonderful blond hair, consider using a backdrop with gold,
tans, or light browns in it. If our subject is wearing a red
blouse or dress, use a background with reds or pinks among its
colors. If our subject is wearing a green suit, consider a backdrop
with greens and/or blacks in it. It's our job - as photographers
- to make our subjects (whether they're people in portrait pictures,
or products, or buildings) look as good as we possibly can. And
one of our most powerful and potent allies in this quest is the
use of backgrounds! It's up to us to make our pictures
make our subjects look as beautiful (or handsome, or striking,
etc.) as we possibly can! If you can't afford a professional
background (check my other auctions and eBay store for some great
backdrops), then use a sheet, or go to a local fabric store and
buy some solid color fabrics for use as backgrounds (avoid patterns
and busy designs like the plague! They detract from our images,
and look like doo-doo in the final print). Back to top of page The Portrait Session: If, for example, we're doing a portrait session, and we only have a background with blues and browns among its prominent colors (like my great "Stormy Weather" background in my eBay store) to work with (hey, not all of us can afford to have dozens of different backgrounds when we're just starting out, y'know), what do we do? That's easy: tell our portrait client to bring two (or more) changes of clothes; in one set of clothes, wear something blue, and in the other set of clothes, bring something brown or gold! This way, we get to make our clients look great using the backgrounds we already have! Also, tell them to bring one dressy outfit, and one casual outfit, so we can get images that show them urbane and sophisticated, and another set of images with them casual and comfortable. Oh yes, and this way we get to sell them twice the number of prints, too! One set for business and impressing folks, and one set showing that they're pretty darn attractive in jeans & cowboy boots, too (or whatever their particular casual attire may be). Tip 1: Ask the client what they enjoy doing; ask them about their hobbies, their passions, their interests. If they play the guitar, have them bring one along; if they love basketball, have them bring one to the session; if they just adore their dog or cat, bring them, too (more pictures, more poses, equal more SALES!). Back to top of page Tip 2: This tip alone can double your income! If they have a child, then tell them to bring the child along (unless it's strictly a business sitting, where children would be inappropriate), and bring a couple of sets of clothing for each child. too. Make some exposures (in addition to the standard single-subject portrait poses, of course) with the victim and the child, and some exposures of the child alone. Have the child in dressy clothes for some shots, and in play clothes for another set of shots (film is the cheapest part of your costs, so don't be afraid to use a lot). Then, be SURE to ask the subject to bring the child's grandparents (or uncles & aunts) along to view the prints - I guarantee you, 90% of the time, the grandparents will - at the very least - triple your sale! They just can't resist ordering pictures of their little darlings! A couple of 11 x 14s for the walls in the house (and for the office walls, too); a few 5 x 7s for their relatives, and some wallet-size prints, to carry with them! Remember, you're not only a photographer - you're also in business to make a living (quite a nice living, too, if you use your head)! See my other auctions for some more tips. Explanation: Just in case you were uncertain about what I meant when I said "bring the child's grandparents (or uncles & aunts) along to view the prints," above, here's how it usually works: We do the portrait sessions, where we make all the exposures (take all the pictures). Then, when we get back the proof sheets (or prints) of the photo session, we go over all the pictures and we pick out the best shots (depending upon the reasons for the shoot, and the uses to be made of the final pictures; for example, in student pictures for high school or college yearbooks, we may only want 1 or 2 poses; for private portrait sittings, we may want 5 to 15 poses). We NEVER let our subjects see the shots that came out looking like doo-doo! We show them only the best shots. So, depending upon the requirements of our photo sessions, we choose the very best pictures from the entire shoot (2 or 10 or 20 poses, etc.), and we have our photo lab send us prints of the best shots (usually, I have 1 or two 8 x 10s, 4-6 5 x 7s, and perhaps 3-6 4 x 6s printed). We then put the 8 x 10s and 5 x 7s in beautiful frames, and set the others alongside them. We then call the customer(s) and make an appointment for them to come in to view the pictures (or we can go to the customers place, too). We present them with the best prints and let them "ooh and aah" over their beautiful pictures. Then, we ask them to choose which pictures they want, and at what size they want each pose (11 x 14" or 8 x 10, or 5 x 7, or wallets, etc.). Then we ask which frame they want with their pictures (substantial extra income for us:). Try to invite as many grandparents as possible to the viewing of kid's pix; they spend the most! :-) Then, the most important part of the whole process occurs: our appreciative clients whip out the checkbook, and we run to the bank to collect our well-deserved (and quickly-escalating) fees! Soon, Sports Illustrated, National Geographic, and Playboy magazines send us to the world's most beautiful and exotic places (first class, of course), along with a couple of dozen exquisitely beautiful, world-class models to photograph (in various degrees of undress) for them. Fame, wealth, and public adulation, soon follow. Ahh, life is good! But when you're rich and famous, don't forget who helped you get there (little ol' moi), and have the limo driver swing by to pick me up on the way to your next exotic locale. :-) Back to top of page Quickie Technique #3: Portraits - How to set the camera for the best results: Set the camera at subject's eye level; focus on the eyes; light one side of the face brighter than the other (half in light to medium shadow); to hide wrinkles use umbrellas or softbox; to de-emphasize a large nose, raise camera level slightly and shoot full or 3/4 face (not profile); to de-emphasize a receding hairline, lower camera slightly or have subject raise head slightly. More "quickie technique" information will be included in other auction descriptions. Thank you for viewing this auction, and good luck! Tell me more about getting perfect exposure...see here Back to top of page |
Technique: The most important "secret"
of good photography is the
thought the photographer puts into a picture before s/he
even considers what type of film to use! The point here is that
we have to train ourselves to think before we shoot! What
color is our subject? How can we make that color (or shade) stand
out? In the lovely picture to your left, notice how the blue-violet
shadows to the right of the model's head accentuate her blue
eyes. Notice, too how half the face is in a light shadow, adding
depth and texture. We have to ask ourselves: What do we want
to emphasize in our picture? How will we direct our viewers'
eye to our subject? If it's an outdoors photograph, how will
we separate our main subject from any other distracting elements
in our photograph? At which angle should we shoot? Is it important
to establish place in this photograph (i.e., is it important
for the viewer to know where our subject is? Or do we want to
hide the location)? If we're shooting people, what is our victim's
least appealing feature (i.e., a large nose, a bald head, pot
belly, lotsa wrinkles, etc.:)? How can we hide or de-emphasize
it? What's our subject's most appealing feature (i.e., eyes,
profile, smile, boobs - oops! sorry, I couldn't resist:) ? How
can we emphasize the attractive aspects of our subjects? These
are the questions photographers have to ask, before we
shoot. THINK before you shoot! MAKE a photograph - don't "take"
a snapshot! Review the "Tips" in my auction descriptions;
take the time and thought to prepare your photo sessions
long before your subject arrives! Learn to know what you
want before you put film in your camera. Learn to "design"
your pictures before you pick up your camera! Take a piece of
paper and a pencil, and sketch out what you want in the picture
you're considering; this will be a great help in the beginning,
and after a few weeks or months of doing this, you'll start to
do it all in your head, and won't need the pencil and paper any
more. Is your subject a child? If so, have some colorful toys
around. Is your victim a man? Have him bring a suit and some
jeans to the session. Is your subject an attractive and shapely
young woman? Ask her to bring a dressy outfit and a sexy outfit
or a bikini. Is your subject older? Be sure to have an umbrella
or softbox ready to hide the lines and wrinkles. Shooting outdoors?
Avoid placing a subject in the bright sunlight (which causes
squinting eyes and harsh shadows), and find some open shade to
shoot in (overcast days are great for outdoor shoots). I promise
you that a good photograph doesn't require the genius of an Einstein
- it just takes a little thought and preparation (creativity
and practice doesn't hurt either)! You don't have to study photography
for 20 years, just train yourself to think before you
shoot! Don't try to plan out 100 subjects all at once; think
about one or two, and then use 10 rolls of film on just a few
ideas. Shoot from different angles; shoot from different heights;
shoot with different lighting angles; shoot with color film;
shoot with black and white film; think, then shoot! Pretty soon,
you'll wake up one day and realize that you've changed; you'll
look at the world differently; you'll "see" things
most people never even notice; one day, you'll realize that you've
become something special; something different, but different
in a most amazing and wonderful way; you will have become - a
photographer! © 2002-2005 Back to top of page Quickie Technique #5: Exposure - All meters built into all cameras are "reflection" meters; they read the light reflected by our subjects AND everything else in our viewfinder! This often causes incorrect readings, and pictures that turn out looking like doo-doo. Instead of letting our camera's meter read the exposure from our whole frame, set your built-in meter to its "spot" setting. Then, center the most Important part of your subject (i.e., the face of a person, the flower petals of a flower, the coat of a dog, etc.) in your meter's spot circle and take your reading; then, when our viewfinder's spot circle is filled with our subject and NOT with the surroundings, lock in exposure (e.g., press the shutter button half-way down), re-compose the shot, and then press the shutter button all the way down and make the exposure! I think you'll be pleased with the results! More "quickie techniques" information will be included in my other auction descriptions. Thank you for viewing this auction, and may you have the very best of luck! Photo Tip #29: Go buy (or subscribe to) at least a half-dozen top magazines (Vogue, Cosmo, GQ, Elle, etc., etc. and don't forget my favorite, Playboy:). Then get a 3-ring binder and a 3-hole punch; this will become your idea and guide book. Go through the magazines and tear out every page with an image that you admire, find interesting or striking, or has dramatic lighting. Then take the pile of pages, punch the holes in them, and put them into your binder. Separate the images into categories. Study each picture to determine where the strobes were located, how the shadowing was arranged, what the background was (and how it was lit). When you're about to do a portrait session, look at your victim's face; find similar features and similar clothing on models in your binder, and see how the pros lit them. Pay attention to where and how the hands are placed in the pictures. Pay attention to where and how the legs are placed in the pictures. Pay attention to what angle the body is placed in relation to the camera; see how the clothing is arranged, and how it relates to the background. Pay attention, read the magazines, tear out pages, put them into your binder. Study them. Emulate the best you find. This is the best way learn: from those who are great - and successful - photographers! Back to top of page |
| Back to top of page |
|
|
|
The Power fallacy: Wouldn't I be better off buying one more powerful light instead of 2 or 3 less powerful lights (either strobes or continuous digital/video lights)? Wouldn't I be better off using a dedicated flash attached to my camera, rather than using separate, independant lights? The answer? To make a long story short, NO! To make a long story a bit longer, while still covering the important reasons why every pro photographer and videographer, and almost all advanced amateurs all use separate, pro lights, take a deep breath, kick back, and read the following few paragraphs. I promise you, when youre finished, it will make you a better photographer, videographer, and/or moviemaker. Many photography schools charge students thousands of dollars for this information. Here, whether or not you ever buy anything from me, its 100% FREE! Can't beat the price, huh?
It's often common for beginners in studio photography to confuse the value of power output (watt seconds with strobes and watts with continuous lighting equipment) with efficacy (the usefulness and value). True, we should buy the most powerful set of lights that will fit our needs without being too powerful to work in the area in which we're using them, but what's much more important than simple power is our ability to position multiple lights to produce the best possible image. As far as power goes, if you can afford a multiple set of powerful lights, then that's absolutely the way to go. But if money is a limiting factor for you, then you should seriously consider the following information before plunking down your hard-earned dollars. As an example, if we're doing a portrait session, a few 40-150WS strobes or 100-300 watt continuous lamps will do the job just fine. It's more important to have 2 less powerful lights to light our victims than it is to have one much more more powerful light (because in portraiture awa product photography, we need at least 2 oppositely-placed light sources at minimum - and if we can afford it, 3 - 5 lights to give us the best results). With 2 lights, we have the main light (to light the highlight side of our victim's face), and the fill light (to light the shadow side of the face), giving us the interplay of light and shadow which are necessary for the depth and texture characteristic of professional portraiture (or product photography). Ideally, with 4 lights (2 for lighting the face or product), the third light will be our background light, and the fourth our hair light. The backlight is the "secret" of eliminating the shadows that fall behind our subjects that plague many of our amateur images.(lighting the backdrop, not only gives us the three dimensional look and separation between our subject and the background, but also - and more importantly - to blows away all the ugly shadows), and the 4th light is a hair light to give us that shiny, healthy, "glow" on the hair! Far more
important than power, is having the ability to appropriately
light our subjects to get the best images. Sure, 3 or 4 powerful
lights will eventually be more useful to us than 3 or 4 less
powerful units (and if you can afford 2 or 3 or more powerful
lights, definitely go for it)! Ideally, at least two MonoLight
strobes - with modeling lights - or continuous lights, and a
third for a backlight, would be an ideal starter package. If
you can afford the MonoLight strobes with modeling lights, or
a similar number of continuous lights, absolutely go that route!
It will make your photographic life much easier. But if you can
only spend a certain amount of money, and can afford either one
powerful light, or 2 or 3 less powerful lights (for portraiture,
or small to medium product photography, for example), you'll
be better off with the 2 or 3 less powerful lights, than you'd
be with the one more powerful unit, for lighting your subject.
Look at it like this: Sure, a big 18-wheeler truck is much, much,
more powerful than a passenger car; and it would be a necessity
for hauling around 2 or 3 elephants; but if all you need a vehicle
for is to take you to work, the kids to school, on vacations,
and on your way around town, you're much better off with the
passenger car - ever try to park an 18-wheeler on the street,
or in the mall or supermarket parking lot (or anywhere else,
for that matter)? Do you really need a gigantic, smoke-belching,
900 horsepower diesel engine and a10-gear manual transmission?
See? I hope I've been able to shed some light on this for you
(sorry, I just couldn't resist). ;-) So basically, if your budget will allow for it, get the most powerful set of lights you can comfortably afford (without overpowering your subjects), and try to get as many strobes that come with modeling lights as you can. But there are lots of us who would love to get started in studio photography, but just can't afford the more expensive units. See above for more information on this. Sure, I'm in business to sell professional lighting equipment; but not by taking advantage of decent folks. Most other suppliers would love to sell you the most expensive (and profitable) equipment they possibly could (whether or not it would actually be what you really needed). But I do business somewhat differently; I realize that each and every one of my customers is a photographically-inclined homo sapien, a decent person, just like I am (at least like I hope I am:); every one of my customers would love to be able to make great images (just like I would), and more importantly, every customer is someone just like me: a human being struggling with life and light and beauty and photographic creativity. Someone who I'd be proud to have as a friend. When I started this business, I promised myself I would treat everyone with all the honesty and respect and decency I possibly could. I may not succeed all the time, but I will do the very best I can to do so. Trying our best is about all we can expect from each other, isn't it? Thank you again for reading this far. May the Photographic Force be with you! You can see my business philosophy, here, if you're interested. |
| Photo Tip #55: Another great suggestion regarding photographing glassware (or any transparent, semi-transparent, or translucent objects - when using a Photo Table): Yes, glass and similar substances are difficult subjects to properly photograph (especially clear glass objects), but it can be done with a little equipment - like this Photo Table (and a little creativity). A GREAT technique to use to make any glass or translucent objects look truly magnificent and visually striking, with the photo table, is to place your glass object right over the hole (drilled through the shelf) or use a piece of transparent or translucent plastic or plexiglas for the shelf, and light it from below! The light shining up through the hole (or the plexiglas) into your object will make the glass object "glow" beautifully (here, though, you might want to consider using a black background, and let it underexpose to pure, pitch black; the "glowing" glass object will appear to "float" in space, and can look pretty damn fantastic (when done properly)! If you add a color filter (just a piece of colored cellophane or plastic) over the light shining up from the bottom of this setup, you can give it (your glass or plastic object) lovely colorful highlights that will just amaze the viewers! Using 2 or 3 different colors can add some really dramatic highlights! Of course, with the Photo Table, you can even do this with "regular" hot lights to get an idea of what amazing effects can be accomplished, although strobes will give you more creative options. If you can't afford to buy a Photo Table, take an old chair, punch out the seat, and use it for your "poor photographer's" photo table. "What? Is this guy crazy or something," you're probably asking yourself. "Why is he telling us this? Shouldn't he be trying to sell us stuff instead?" Hey, sure I'm in business to sell photographic equipment, but I'm also a person (just like you), who enjoys photography and who would rather see you make great pictures, than to try to squeeze the baby's food money out of you. If you can afford to buy a Photo Table, great! Place your order right now! But if money's tight, make a "poor photographer's photo table," with an old chair, and then blow your client's minds with some phenomenal photographs! Then you'll make a ton of money photographing products, and you'll come back and buy the real photo table from me, since the professional photo table is, of course, much larger, much more versatile, infinitely adjustable (which an old chair isn't), professional, easy and convenient to break down, and fit into its custom carrying case when you need to take it on location and make the pictures at your client's warehouse - or stash it in the closet when the spouse want's the living room back - I have no doubt you'll toss out that flea-bitten, ugly and embarrassing old chair just as soon as you can afford the real thing:). After all, you're not going to make a great impression on your clients by dragging an ugly old chair around with you, will you? :) Thanks for viewing this page, may you have the best of luck, and check out my eBay auctions to see the Photo Table, as well as lots of other great photographic equipment! And remember, half the battle is having the right equipment for the job. |
| Very few beginning photographers (and far too many pros, as well) don't know how to photograph (or video) children, and as a result, we see far too many images of kids that are lacking in the "magic" that we all want to capture. Here's the "secret" of success with children - pay attention, follow my suggestions, and watch the beauty flow from your studio like the pure and refreshing rain. |
|
Most of all, what you'll need to guarantee success when photographing children is an open heart, patience, and love for children; if you have that (and I'd bet you do), the fabulous images will come easy to you. Bracket your shots and burn up lots of film or use large memory cards - kids require it. And children (just like animals) KNOW, instinctively, who to trust, and to those of us who are blessed with a heart full of love for children and dogs and cats (and even iguanas:), it's guaranteed that we'll will tease from our subjects priceless images. If you're going to the subject's home, ask the parents to have several changes of clothing and the children's favorite colorful toys ready; if the children are coming to your studio, or if you're going to an outdoor setting, have the parents bring these things along with them. Now here's where we get to the important parts: Get down on the ground with the children, and shoot from their level (images taken from above - looking down upon the subject - imply that they are below us, subservient to us, something inferior to or less than equal to the photographer as well as the viewer of the image; we don't "look down" upon kids, we photograph them as equals, with respect and admiration. They are no less deserving than adults of our respect, so - if anything - we are honored by their presence and their trust of us. Do not betray their trust by photographing them in inferior positions; get down to their level, and with kindness, patience, and love, make images of them. See the wonder. joy, and divinity in the eyes of every child, and you will be blessed with beautiful pictures in every photo session. Try different things; take a piece of cloth - an old towel or blanket, tear a hole in it, throw it over the child and let him/her look out at us (and the world) through the hole. Make at least a dozen shots of that child's eyes or face peering out at the world through the hole in the cloth. Have the child sit on a colorful ball; tie something to a piece of string and swing it back and forth over the child's head, as you catch the child looking at and reaching for the swinging thing, capture several glorious pictures with the child reaching for the sky. Drag it (a toy or other gizmo) along the ground on a string, and let the child crawl after it. Forget what the books tell you to do and follow your heart. Smile a lot. Hug the kids a lot. Let them touch the camera (but not the glass on the lens); let them touch us. Like we are, they, too, are a child of God, divinity resides in their hearts (as in ours). Give them breaks whenever they need one. Care. Do that, and there's no possible way to fail. Make up your own "games" and techniques to elicit the magic from children. Try anything that comes to mind - keep the techniques that work, and discard those that don't. Play; learn; have fun. BE a kid. Remember the excitement of finding a new bug or getting a new toy; c'mon, we were ALL kids once, so just become a kid again - even for just a little while. Reach deep down, and pull out those memories (the good ones, anyway). Become something filled with wonder again. I promise, it doesn't hurt. Smile a lot. Tell the children you're photographing how handsome or beautiful they are. Tell them what great kids they are. They're kids - they'll believe you - and believing makes it true. Have fun with your photography; be happy doing it. Read the musings below for an idea of how important photography is to folks. Kick back, relax, get to know your equipment,
and - most importantly of all (did i mention this before?) have
fun! Do what you love, and you'll never work another day in your
life. If you make a thousand exposures and don't get a single
usable picture, will the world come to an end? Will you die then
and there? No! So what's the worst possible outcome? You'll go
out and buy another hundred rolls of film or erase the memory
card and do it all over again. But what happens when you succeed?
Will success, fame and fortune destroy your life? Possibly, but
not likely! So realize that this is a no-lose situation for you.
I don't care if you order anything from me (really!). I'm doing
well enough (thank goodness) so all I really want is to see you
succeed. You don't need a ton of equipment to make a great image;
all you need is the desire and will to try. "Giving up"
is for losers. The very instant that you give up trying is the
instant that you fail. You're not a loser; you're a winner
(if you weren't, you wouldn't be reading this). So go for it!
You have very little to lose, and a whole lot to gain. |
| Some musings on the joys and wonder of photography... |
|
Would only that I had more time to better explain all things photographic! As with most art forms, photography can often seem complex and confusing; however, once understood, it is uncommonly rewarding! And I promise you, it's NOT anywhere near as confusing as most photographic experts would have us believe! You can be making fabulous pictures within a week! For a brief but easily understood review of the most common technical questions concerning photography see here. Consider that - with most people - among their most cherished possessions are photographs. They'll often pull out a treasured and time-worn album, or an old shoe box, stuffed with pictures of themselves, their friends, and their family; "this was me as a baby," they'll say, "and here's my grandfather - oh, how I loved him!" It's not uncommon for a photograph to bring tears to our eyes, and bring us back to a time - yesterday or long ago - where something meaningful occurred, to us or to someone we loved. Beauty comes in many forms, and to some of us it may be a picture of us, covered in mud and huffing and puffing in that football game we played in high school; to others it might be that wonderful dress we wore to our prom; but no matter what touched our hearts, or who we loved, or how hard we tried, the images of those memories will always remain among our most treasured possessions. And the better the image, the more joy (or anguish) it will elicit in us and our clients. A good photograph or video is a family heirloom, and will bring joy and memories to generations yet unborn. Remember, whenever a disaster threatens, the old box of photographs are among the first possessions folks pack up to save - even before the jewelry! "Things" can be replaced - photographs - once destroyed - are gone forever, along with the memories. Our pictures will introduce us to those we never knew, those to whom we are precursors, and who were born long after we have passed away, and will testify of our lives to our great-great-great grandchildren. How fortunate we are to live in an age of photography! Those of ages past never knew of those who preceded them, unless they were rich and able to afford a portrait painter - and hope the artist was talented enough to create an accurate representation. So ply your photographic craft with appropriate pride, knowing that your pictures will be kept and treasured long, long, after you've forgotten about the day when you made them. And as your talent increases, so will your income; don't price yourself out of the market, of course, but realize that your images will bring pleasure and joy to your clients, as well as their progeny over the years. And yes, YOU can make beautiful images
- it doesn't take the genius of an Einstein, nor does it take
20 years of assiduous study; later today, you can make a wonderful
picture. Just read a bit on my web site and eBay auctions, and
you can start to improve your pictures today. Photography is
the ultimate equal opportunity profession! I've seen fabulous
images made by 10 year old kids, as well as 90 year old great-grandparents.
The image doesn't give a whit how old or young the photographer
is; the camera cares not who presses its shtter button. All are equal before the justice of the lens; the rich and powerful, the poor and impotent, the young and the old, the pavement artist and Michelangelo. None can buy the beauty of a photograph; the image cares not whether it was captured by a $50,000.00 camera and lens or by a cardboard box with a pinhole in it. No one can "fake it" in photography (yes, the digital revolution has made it possible to do amazing things to our images - but the beauty and majesty must be there first). And few can make great images until they realize the great lie. The injustice is in tricking people into believing that it's tremendously difficult to learn photography. It's not. However, as with any task, it does require some training, some education, and some effort. But you CAN learn to make wonderful images - if only you'll try. Photographs are small "pieces" of time, a slice of life, an instant in someone's life which, unlike ourselves, will never age and never forget the particular moment in which they were made; subject not to fancy nor forgetfulness, but an eternal witness to what was - and to who made them. Why was Man moved to create the photographic arts? I think that all of us, throughout recorded history, have always yearned for some way to preserve the images out of which our lives developed. I'll illustrate: Perhaps the greatest poetic call for the art of photography to find life, the desperate emotional longing for photography to be invented, can be found this quote from Keats' Ode to a Grecian Urn: O Attic shape! fair attitude! with breed When old age shall this generation waste, What Keats is saying, as he sits and admires an ancient Grecian Urn with painted images of young men and young women playing and loving in a forest, is that the painted people on the urn, like those in a photograph will never age or grow old; they will remain young and vibrant and carefree forever, "a friend to man," and, unlike us, real people who grow old and die, they will never age, and never die. Just as in a photograph - and written a century before photography became a reality. Isn't this a beautiful and poetic longing for photography to be invented? I wonder why it is always the poets who first express the need, the desire, the longing, for that which exists not - but should? "Beauty is truth, truth beauty." In a more contemporary example, Paul Simon tells us: "Some people never say the words 'I
love you,' Photographers are the poets of light and life and love. Every photograph is someone longing to be told that someone loves them. Every picture we make of someone is a message of love. Photographers capture the beauty and horror and truth of our world. And a "photographer" is all of us; each and every one of us has, next to us, or stashed away somewhere, a camera (or else you wouldn't be reading this:). Why? Because "Beauty is truth, truth beauty." A "photograph" is a tiny piece of time, and a piece of truth; a photograph gives us beauty, and gives our lives continuity and validation. A photograph bears witness of that which was; of that which is beautiful; of that which is horrible; of that which can move and influence us. Gazing at a photograph, we can fall instantly in love - or recoil in horror from witnessing a great injustice. A picture can change the world. Your pictures can elicit tears of joy and tears of love, and tears of anguish, and memories long buried and brought to the minds and hearts of your clients. So, gentle visitor, I applaud you for arriving here, and I thank you for reading this far. I encourage you to take the time to learn how to create great images, and I promise you that you CAN do it. If I can do it, you surely can, too! I'm not an artist or a genius; in fact, I spent years in ignorance of beauty (see this for my story of learning to see beauty). All it takes is a little time and effort. I can assure you that it is worth the time and effort it takes to learn how to make a wonderful image. |
© 2005/2006 R.Morgan, A.Morgan, all rights reserved.