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Here's what you get: 1) One Britek HS-500 Professional Strobe
180WS!
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| This is truly a wonderful professional portrait setup! With Three powerful main master strobes (a powerful 180WS strobe plus 2 great 150WS units) to light your victims (um, your "subjects" that is:) and your background (adding the depth and separation characteristic of professional images) in the most creative manner, a great Mini-Strobe for highlights or hairlights, a huge 44" umbrella to soften the light and hide those facial lines, sags, and wrinkles (making your subjects look younger and more vital), and in addition, a background support set to hold your backgrounds (also called backdrops), plus a great raw Muslin background/backdrop to start you out, you'll have everything you'll need to start getting the fantastic pictures that will flatter and amaze your clients (or your kids, parents, friends, or relatives)! |
| Wondering what the reserve price is? I never hide anything from my (beloved) bidders! Just look for "Elvis" and you'll see the reserve price minimum clearly listed, just above the "Elvis has left the building..." line. It's the same with all my reserve auctions; the reserve prices are always clearly listed for all to see. Thank you for viewing this auction, good luck, and don't forget to make some great photographs in 2001. |
| NEW! See ALL my eBay auctions; all items, kits, and packages! Here's a special page, where you can find almost every one of my auction packages, even those which are NOT currently running on eBay, and many NEW auctions that will be coming in the days and weeks ahead! Check it out! |
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You can find ALL these things right now in my other auctions (except for the luscious lovely to the left; I'm gonna keep that one for myself:) <-Looks almost like natural light, doesn't it? Nope! Strobes made this lovely image. The main light looks like it's coming from the right (which it is - for the main strobe), there's another one on the left to fill out the shadow side! From now on, whenever looking at pictures in magazines, notice the eyes for clues to the lighting setup - and where the catch light appears in the eyes. The secret to ALL magnificent images? That's an easy one; it's the LIGHTING! A photographer is a light writer! See below for more... |
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Shop with confidence! This PowerSeller proudly provides
a plethora of perfect premium photographic products - PLUS -
pure, powerful, and peerless customer service! [Ain't that great alliteration? Huh? Well, ain't it?] |
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Check out all my other wonderful auctions! |
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| NEW! See ALL my eBay auctions; all items, kits, and packages! Here's a special page, where you can find almost every one of my auction packages, even those which are NOT currently running on eBay, and many NEW auctions that will be coming in the days and weeks ahead! Be among the cognoscenti, Check it out now! |
| Questions, questions, questions.... |
| How can you sell brand new photographic equipment for such low prices? What shipping and payment options do you offer? How do I know I can trust you with my hard-earned money? What's your policy on customer service? Will these pro strobes work with my camera? Will they work with my digital camera? What if my camera is old? How do I contact you? If I live in Southern California; can I pick up the equipment myself? Will you offer more photographic equipment (than you have now)? Are your products guaranteed or warranted? What if I want certain equipment, but you don't have an auction with the equipment I want? Do you accept Lay-Away payment plans? Will you ship to Canada or Europe or Asia? What if I have some technical questions? Hey! Somebody else e-mailed me after I bid on your auction(s) and offered me a "deal" on cheaper equipment... and many more of your questions answered - just click below! |
| Answers, answers, answers.... |
Here's
some information about the items comprising
your new studio kit:
The HS-500 Pro Studio Strobe 180WS
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| Technique: How was I able to make the background that's in
the top picture pure white, and the very same background, in
the picture above, appear brown? It's easy - when you know how
(it's sorta like this: What kind of question is a hard question?
Answer: One you don't know the answer to. And what kind of question
is an easy question? Answer: That's the one you do know
the answer to). Here's how it's done: In the top picture, I lit
the background with a backlight strobe (it's own strobe), so
it received enough light to expose properly, and consequently
it came out pure white. In the picture above, I did not light
the background; I just used the tiny little built-in flash on
the digital Fuji, which was enough to (barely) light the strobe
I was photographing, but too weak to reach or brighten up the
backdrop to white; therefore, the background underexposed and
looked brownish, even though it was really a pure white canvas!
Carried to an extreme, I could even make a white background look
black, if I wanted to. How? By lighting the subject so brightly
that the (unlit) background would underexpose (i.e., not receive
enough light) so badly it would come out black. It's all in the
LIGHT folks; it's all in the light! Remember, a photographer
is a LIGHT writer. Back to top |
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| This is a Fabulous deal, but let's not lose sight of the reality. If you're rich, have a sugar-mommy or daddy, are a high-income pro, or if you can get financing, my advice would be to spring for something (several somethings, in fact) more powerful, more feature-rich (and a LOT more expensive). Lights are like hard disks and internet connections: no matter how big a hard disk is, and no matter how fast your net connection is, they're never big or fast enough. But if you're just starting out, or are on a budget, or are an advanced (or advancing) amateur, these babies sure make a lot of sense. They pump out 180WS of power, and will easily handle almost anything you could fit in a small or medium-sized studio. Let's face it, your portrait clients (or your mother-in-law) won't have any idea whether you paid six hundred or six thousand for each of these strobes; they'll just be impressed (let them think they cost you an arm and a leg; especially those snooty, skinny, little models - "Ya want great head shots, sweetie? It's gonna cost ya; hell, my lights are so valuable, whenever I trade one in, I gotta pay it alimony!") Umm, just some photographer humor, folks :) - it sorta grows on you as you progress in photography; you'll see. |
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BTW, a "Modeling Light" is a separate, additional, light (in addition to the strobe's "Flash Tube") that's built into the strobe and throws continuous light over the same area as the strobe's flash tube will (see the picture below for a close-up). You turn on the modeling light (before your shot), so the photographer can see what the modeling will look like, as s/he adjusts the lights before he takes the shot and fires the strobe ("Modeling" is PhotoSpeak for the highlights (light areas) and shadows (dark areas) that fall upon the subject, giving it the depth and texture necessary for professional results). This great feature (modeling light) is usually only found on much more expensive lights. This unit can be activated by the PC Cord (included, of course), the Test Button, or the Slave Sensor (which means that any other flash, even your camera's little built-in flash, can automatically fire this unit by it's light alone, so you don't even need to use a sync (PC) cord unless you want to). BTW, a "PC Cord" (Push Contact), also called a "Sync Cord" is a wire that connects the strobe to your camera, and fires the strobe when you press the camera's shutter button. |
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The answer was really simple: You don't. UNLESS your strobes also have MODELING LIGHTS! With modeling lights, you can see exactly where the strobe's flash will illuminate the subject, because the modeling light falls on the subject the same as the strobe's light will fall on the subject (less intensely, of course)! And this is why the pros pay lotsa money for good strobes that come with modeling lights. That's why the professional photographer's pictures look so much better than ours do: they have the right equipment for the job! They can CONTROL THE LIGHT! And now, so can you. The HS-500 comes with a powerful 150 watt halogen modeling light (it's rated at 1,000 hours; the flash tube is rated for 10,000 flashes! And, yes, replacements are always available - but you'll probably grow old before you'll need to replace one of these flash tubes). |
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| PhotoSpeak: What's a "Slave Sensor?" Well, if you had to use a PC Cord for every strobe, just think what a mess of tangled wires you'd have if you were using 5 or 6 or more strobes to light your subject (as many pros do)! So, science came to our rescue with slave sensors. It's a tiny little sensor built into most good strobes, that sits & waits for a short, intense burst of light. When it detects this burst of light (the flash from another strobe), it automatically sets off the flash tube in the strobe its built into. Voila! Now, with strobes that have slave sensors (often just called "slaves"), we can connect only one strobe to our cameras (with the PC or Sync cord), usually the strobe closest to our camera, and when we press the shutter button, firing the one connected strobe, that flash will automatically set off all the other strobes we may be using for that shot! Ah, ain't technology wunnerful (sic)? Even most of the little flashes built into most modern cameras can set off most strobes with slaves. A strobe that has PC socket, or both a PC Socket and a slave sensor is called a "Master" strobe; a strobe that only has a slave sensor and no PC socket (usually less expensive units) is called a "Slave." Whichever strobe you're using with a PC cord is referred to as your "master" strobe for purposes of that shot. Most of the better strobes have both PC sockets and slave sensors, so they're more versatile and useful to us (however, there are many very good slaves out there today, and you won't need all your strobes to be masters, so don't hesitate to buy some decent slaves when the time comes - and, believe me, if you stick with photography, the time will come). | |
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Complete: Each of these HS-500s comes complete with umbrella-capable reflector, sync cord, AC cord, Flash Tube, Modeling Light, built-in umbrella holder, and standard light stand connector; it's ready to plug in and fire away! Since all the strobes in this package are A.C. units, they're ready to rock! No batteries or powerpacks or light heads or connector cords are needed; just plug 'em in, and (just like Elvis) you're ready to rock and roll. As with all quality strobes, these are capable of using many additional custom accessories, of course (e.g., snoots, barn doors, softboxes, stands, unbrellas, honeycombs, gel holders, etc.). BTW, pros use umbrellas to "bounce" the strobe's light off of (or sometimes through) to make the light softer, reduce or eliminate shadows, and "mellow-out" the picture. Softboxes (and SoftCases) and umbrellas are specifically designed for this purpose (and yes, these are able to use custom-fitted softboxes & softcases). These are brand new, 100% guaranteed,
with the manufacturer's full one year warrantee . These are NOT
seconds, blemishes, or anything other than brand new, absolutely
perfect, current 2001 models! Just 'cause the price is great,
doesn't mean these are in any way less than perfect! Questions?
Requests? just e-mail any questions or requests, to me at
wryter@usa.net or check out-my
web site HERE.-These strobes and other photographic equipment
also come with an "extra" that's not available anywhere
else, at any price whatsoever: FREE photographic education, advice
and training from MyPhotoHome.com
(coming soon to a computer near you)! MPH Members also get FREE
web space (to post your own pictures), and much, much more (when
MyPhotoHome.com comes online, shortly). |
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Point of Information: Why, you might be asking yourself, have virtually all photographers switched to using strobes, when "regular" continuous lights (photographers call them "hot" lights) are everywhere, and it's easier for us to see how the lighting will look with them? Well, the continuous lights, like the ones in our houses (tungsten lights), or halogen (and similar) are called "hot lights" for a reason: they get hot. Really hot! And the special photographic hot lights get twice as hot as household bulbs! This tends to make certain things, like flowers, foods, animals, and those darn pesky models, wilt. Especially models. They get very, very, unhappy when they wilt. Whine, gripe, groan; you'd think a little melting makeup, and running mascara, limp hair, and sticky lipstick, and beads of sweat running down their lovely curvaceous (umm, let's say noses) was a big deal or something, the way they complain! ;-) Next, there's a little problem with the "color temperature" being way off with hot lights, so we have to use special films (3200K or 3400K) or filters, or special photographic bulbs, when using them (strobes are perfectly balanced at 5500K to simulate sunlight, so we can use all the regular daylight films we've come to love/hate over the years). You'll notice that most of your pictures taken indoors without using a flash turn out with a yellowish color cast; that's because household lights are loaded with yellow light. The solution is to either use special films, or special filters. But why create more problems for yourself? Using strobes eliminates all these headaches (and heat!). Also, with continuous lights, they're always shining; usually right in our subject's eyes, causing squinting and annoyance (and ugly looking pictures). With strobes, nothing is shining in their eyes, and the flash is too short to cause any of this discomfort to our beloved subjects (until AFTER the flash, when they might be chasing all those little light blips around the room:). Additionally, with strobes, we can control the light much better! We can adjust the power output with the flick of a switch. We can modify the light with umbrellas, softboxes, softcases, filters, scrims and gobos, doo-dahs, and thingamajigs, etc., etc. We can direct the light with barn doors, snoots, honeycombs, and many other accessories. In short, with strobes, we can play God with our photography; WE CAN CONTROL THE LIGHT! And we can do it 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, whenever we want, no matter what the weather is, and without regard to daylight or night. There are yet other, more esoteric, as well as mundane reasons why strobes are the preferred means of photographic lighting in the modern world, but we'll pass on those things for now. You've probably had enough information shoved down your throat already (sorry). |
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| BTW, technically
speaking, all professional photographic flash units, even though
nearly all pros call them "strobes," are not technically
strobe lights. A real stroboscope is capable of dozens (or hundreds
or even thousands) of flashes per second, and many can maintain
that flash rate for hours on end. Our photographic strobes would
die a dozen deaths if we tried to set them off 25 or 50 times
a second! However, since photographers almost always call these
lights "strobes," we'll just stick with the term; but,
technically..... Well, you get the idea ;-> Back to top |
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| Wondering what the reserve price is? I never hide anything from my (beloved) bidders! Just look for "Elvis" and you'll see the reserve price clearly listed. | |
| Will these strobes work with my digital camera? Most likely, they will; read this! |
| Q. What the heck is a "WS" and what's a "GN," and what in the world do they mean? |
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Here's a brief explanation (using,
for this example, your new HS-500 strobe (well, it might be yours
soon:) , which has a power level of 180WS, and a GN of 150): For example, (presuming you're using ISO/ASA 100 film), our GN is 180, and the subject is 12 feet away, then: 180 (GN) divided by 12 (feet away from the subject) = 15, so we'd use an exposure setting of about F16. If our subject is 20 feet away, then: 180 divided by 20 = 9 which would give us an approximate F stop of about F 8 (bracketing is always a good idea, too). See? Umm, if you don't understand it, don't worry about it (it took me years to fully comprehend). Suggestion: If you're serious about improving your photography, you might consider getting a handheld flash/ambient light meter (sorry, I don't carry any at this time; if you want recommendations, just check this out). |
| Technique: Why would anyone want to dim a strobe to 1/2 its normal power? | |
 Why would we want to dim a strobe to
1/2 power? Because in order to get great pictures, we have to
be able to control the light (sound familiar?) in a number of
ways. Sometimes a full power flash is too powerful for the effect
we're after; other times we may want to reduce the illumination
to create a different mood. In people pictures, for a head shot
(that's what photographers call a picture of a person's face,
often the face and shoulders), we often want part of the face
highlighted, and the other part of the face in a light to medium
shadow. This interplay of light and shadow is called "modeling,"
and is a hallmark of good photography. Anyway, as an example,
a common lighting ratio for people pictures is a 1:2 (or 1:3)
ratio - full illumination on one side of the face, and 1/2 that
amount of light on the other side of the subject's face (we rarely
want full frontal lighting, because it gives the face a flat
and unappealing look, as well as other negative aspects). The
1:2 (full/half) lighting combination gives us an interesting
and often flattering image, with a good ratio of light and shadow
- revealing the character, and giving us depth and texture (but
be sure to play around with other lighting ratios, too, for even
more creativity). Whenever we have two strobes to work with,
we can achieve this 1:2 ratio by moving one strobe (the one providing
the shadow side lighting) twice as far away from the subject
as our main light (the strobe providing the full illumination).
But often things get in the way, like walls and such; not all
of us have lots of room in our studios (especially living room
studios :) to move our lights as far away as we like. Aha! The
scientific wizards devised a most convenient solution! A variable-power
strobe (like this great HS-500)! Now, instead of moving lights
all over the place, all we have to do is flip a switch, and Voila!
1/2 power without any hassle at all! In some very powerful strobes,
we might even find variations from full power, all the way down
to 1/32 power. Another way to achieve a lighting ratio (when
we only have one strobe) is to use a reflector to "bounce"
some light onto the shadow side of the subject's face. You can
buy a "professional" reflector for as much as $100.00
or more, but I just use a white poster board, which you can find
at any art supply store for under two bucks. You don't have to
spend a fortune to make great pictures, just use your equipment
to its fullest extent - and use your head! Back up to the HS-500 description from whence you came. |
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| AC Input | 110-120 Volt |
| AC Fuse | 5 Amp |
| Modeling Lamp | 150 watt Halogen G6.35 base (rated 1,000 hours) |
| Flash Tube | Pro UV Quartz (rated 10,000 flashes) 180Watt Seconds (huh?) |
| Guide No. (ISO 100) | GN 150 (45 Meters / 150 Feet) with ISO 100 film (huh?) |
| Trigger | Test button / Optical Slave Sensor / PC Cord |
| Slave Effective Distance | 15 Meters / 50 Feet |
| Sync Socket | 5 ø Standard Earphone Type, 6V DC |
| Diameter of Light Head | 70 ø mm |
| Recycling Time | 1-3 Seconds |
| Dimensions & Weight | 250 x 85 x 155mm 0.85Kg |
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What a great opportunity to own these brand new professional strobes! |
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| Wondering what the reserve price is? I never hide anything from my (beloved) bidders! Just look for "Elvis" and you'll see the reserve price clearly listed; it's the same in all my reserve auctions - no secrets, no tricks! | |
| Questions, questions, questions.... |
| How can you sell brand new photographic equipment for such low prices? What shipping and payment options do you offer? How do I know I can trust you with my hard-earned money? What's your policy on customer service? Will these pro strobes work with my camera? With my digital camera? What if my camera is old? How do I contact you? If I live in Southern California; can I pick up the equipment myself? Will you offer more photographic equipment (than you have now)? Are your products guaranteed or warranted? What if I want certain equipment, but you don't have an auction with the equipment I want? Do you accept Lay-Away payment plans? Will you ship to Canada or Europe or Asia? What if I have some technical questions? Hey! Somebody else e-mailed me after I bid on your auction(s) and told me the most terrible things, or offered me a "deal" on cheaper equipment... and many more of your questions answered - just click below! |
| Answers, answers, answers.... |
| NEW! See ALL my eBay auctions; all items, kits, and packages! Here's a special page, where you can find almost every one of my auction packages, even those which are NOT currently running on eBay, and many NEW auctions that will be coming in the days and weeks ahead! Be among the cognoscenti, Check it out now! |
Here's
some information about the items comprising
your new studio kit:
NEW!
Britek PS-300 Professional Studio Flashes
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All the basic data & information presented about the HS-500 Pro Studio Strobes (above) also pertain to the PS-300 Pro Strobes - the only differences are: The PS-300
puts out 150WS of power (instead of 180WS); and Here are some pictures of the PS-300 Pro Strobe for your consideration. |
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 Technique: BTW, I purposely made the photograph above to
show you an example of a photographic situation that often plagues
some of our amateur images. I used this technique to distort
the relative size of the strobe body and the reflector. Look
at the picture at the top of this auction description or the
small one to the left; then look at the image above. The reflector
in the image above appears larger than it really is, in relation
to the body of the strobe (compare the relative sizes of the
strobe and silver reflector). Why does this happen? It's called
"perspective distortion" and I'll spare you the physics
of the explanation, but whenever one part of an object is closer
to the camera's lens than the other part of an object, the perspective
is distorted (it's due to the rendering of a 3 dimensional object
into a 2 dimensional image). For fun, try this: come in really
close to someone's face with your camera, and with the person's
nose closest to your lens, take a picture. When the print comes
back, you'll see the nose looks huge (compared to the rest of
the face). Of course, you can do the same with almost any object
you photograph. The lesson? Beware of holding the camera too
close to your subject (unless you want perspective distortion
for some reason, like this example, or for fun). This most often
happens when we're using wide angle lenses (since we can fit
more into the frame, we sometimes bring the camera too close
to our subjects), but it happens with all lenses. For portraiture,
use somewhere between an 85 to 135mm lens (the short telephoto
range makes most faces look better). The opposite of the perspective
distortion effect is a compression of space caused with long
telephoto lenses. If a subject really does have a large nose,
shoot your victim with a longer telephoto lens; it will compress
space, and make the nose look smaller. Just a couple more tricks
up the professional photographer's sleeve. Read on, and learn
more.... |
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 As we can see from this top view (with the reflector removed), The PS-300 allows us to control the power level output (full or half power), and lets us choose whether or not we want to turn on the modeling light. |
The PS-300 is also a "Monolight," meaning that all the required components are included in the one package no additional equipment is needed); just plug them in, and fire away! |
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As with the HS-500, we can see the PS-300's Modeling Light Bulb and the Flash Tube (the circular tube surrounding the modeling bulb). The reflector has been removed so you can see the flash tube and modeling bulb easier (but a reflector is included with every PS-300 and HS-500 Pro Studio Strobe, of course). |
| Complete: Each of these PS-300s (just like their big brothers, the HS-500 Pro Studio Strobes) comes complete with umbrella-capable reflector, sync cord, AC cord, Flash Tube, Modeling Light, built-in umbrella holder, and standard light stand connector; it's ready to plug in and fire away! Many additional accessories are also available for these units, whenever you're ready for them (e.g., snoots, barn doors, softboxes, stands, unbrellas, honeycombs, gel holders, etc.). These are brand new, 100% guaranteed, with full manufacturer's warrantee . These are NOT seconds, blemishes, or anything other than brand new, absolutely perfect, current 2001 models! | |
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| AC Input | 110-120 Volt |
| AC Fuse | 5 Amp |
| Modeling Lamp | 100W Halogen (rated 1,000 hours) |
| Flash Tube | BC-100Y (rated 10,000 flashes) 150WS (huh?) |
| Guide No. (ISO 100) | GN: 45 Meters / 150 Feet (huh?) |
| Trigger | Test button / Slave / PC Cord |
| Slave Effective Distance | 15 Meters / 50 Feet |
| Sync Socket | 5 ø Standard Earphone Type, 6V DC |
| Diameter of Light Head | 70 ø mm |
| Recycling Time | 1-3 Seconds |
| Dimensions & Weight | 240 x 80 x 140mm 0.65Kg |
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| Q. What the heck is a "WS" and what's a "GN," and what in the world do they mean? . |
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Here's a brief explanation (using,
for this example, your (well, it might be yours soon:) new PS-300
strobe, which have a power level of 150WS, and a GN of 150): For example, (presuming you're using ISO/ASA 100 film), our GN is 150, and the subject is 12 feet away, then: 150 (GN) divided by 12 (feet away from the subject) = 12.5, so we'd use an exposure setting of just over F11. If our subject is 8 feet away, then: 150 divided by 8 = 18.75 which would give us an approximate F stop of just over 16. See? Umm, if you don't understand it, don't worry about it (it took me years to fully comprehend). Suggestion: If you're serious about improving your photography, you should consider getting a handheld flash/ambient light meter (sorry, I don't carry any at this time). Back up to the PS-300 description ------------------- Back to top of page |
| Questions, questions, questions.... |
| How can you sell brand new photographic equipment for such low prices? What shipping and payment options do you offer? How do I know I can trust you with my hard-earned money? What's your policy on customer service? Will these pro strobes work with my camera? WI'll they work with my digital camera? What if my camera is old? How do I contact you? If I live in Southern California; can I pick up the equipment myself? Will you offer more photographic equipment (than you have now)? Are your products guaranteed or warranted? What if I want certain equipment, but you don't have an auction with the equipment I want? Do you accept Lay-Away payment plans? Will you ship to Canada or Europe or Asia? What if I have some technical questions? Hey! Somebody else e-mailed me after I bid on your auction(s) and told me terrible things, or offered me a "deal" on cheaper equipment... these - and many more of your questions answered - just click on the "Answers" link below! |
| Answers, answers, answers.... |
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AS-66 Mini-Strobe: This has got to be the cutest little Mini-Slave you've ever seen! It's great for adding a hairlight, or a fill light, or for anyplace you might want an extra spot of light! It pumps out 20WS of light, and with all it's included accessories, you'll be able to place that light exactly where you want it. Hey, this is small, but it allows us to add those extra highlights that separate the amateur images from the professional images! This is an accessory light that you'll find yourself using for just about every shot - you'll see! |
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| Reality Check: But be aware, though, that this unit is NOT sufficient to light a large subject (e.g., people) all by itself. But to illuminate small items, or for a fill light, an accent light, a hairlight, a copy light, or as an additional light for all your setups, etc., this 'lil beauty is a photographer's best friend! It will come in handy for almost every shot, and will allow you to fill in those little areas where an extra highlight or a little spot of light - right where you need it -can make all the difference in your shot. The accessories included will allow you to direct the light to the specific spot or area you want. Remember, it's all in the little details! | ||
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Here's
some information about the items comprising
your new studio kit: Brand
New 3.3 to 7.5 Foot Light stands
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These fabulous light stands
are truly top quality units without compromises. These Brand
New Britek light stands extend to a height of 7 1/2 Feet, and
fold down (fully assembled) to only 3.3 feet for easy packing
and transport. Reality Check: Hey, if you're rich, I'd suggest buying a set of bigger, heavier (& more expensive) stands for your pro studio setup, and another set of lightweight stands for location shoots; but my studio is in my house, and I don't have 20 foot ceilings for the 18' stands anyway, so these stands work just fine for me. 7 1/2 feet is plenty high, even for hairlights, or toplighting, etc. And they're unquestionably sturdy enough for studio work, and light enough for location work. Realize, though, that these stands, while certainly a great deal and a marvelous value, are the working photog's reliable, blue collar light stands; not the prissy luxury models. Treat them with minimal respect, and they'll see you through to old age. These light stands, like all this equipment, are brand new and, of course, they come with the manufacturer's full warrantee. Additional accessories are also available (booms, clamps, studs, swivels, adapters, ball tilt heads, etc., etc.), as your needs may dictate. These sturdy light stands are rated to hold a load of over 17 1/2 pounds (but, personally, I try to keep the load under 15 lbs when it's fully extended out to 7 1/2 feet) either way, they're likely to be able to hold darn near any lighting units you're using. All the sections of these stands are quality tubular stock, NOT the cheapie solid ones (which are heavier and less versatile, as well as cheaper). The only "cheap" part of these stands is the price - not the quality! Bid now, while they're still in stock. |
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I usually have photo equipment, pro strobes, background systems, and other great photo stuff, etc. listed. |
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Backlight Stand Now here's one of the best backlight stands I've ever come across. First of all, it comes apart and folds up into a tiny little package when you're not using it. Next, it's got some really neat extras, like the additional connector on one of its legs that allows us to connect another light or accessory to it, right where we'll need it, too (it's removable, too)! And it's adjustable from a low of only 1.1 foot up to 3.3 feet. It's black, to reduce glare and interference, it has neat little rubber pads on all three of its feet, and comes with a standard light connector on top. Basically, this is the coolest backlight stand I've seen in a long time. Specifications: |
| NEW! See ALL my eBay auctions; all items, kits, and packages! Here's a special page, where you can find almost every one of my auction packages, even those which are NOT currently running on eBay, and many NEW auctions that will be coming in the days and weeks ahead! Be among the cognoscenti, Check it out now! |
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Extends to 8 1/2 feet high! |
| Here's a marvelous background system for an amazingly
low price! For those of us
who are ready to improve our photographic skills with the many
and varied backgrounds now available, but who don't need (or
aren't in the financial position to spring for) the more expensive
and larger background packages, this economy setup fits the bill
perfectly! This system can hold backgrounds up to Nine Feet wide (it extends to 9 1/2 feet wide), and the two background stands extend up to 8 1/2 feet high, which is all the height and width you'll need for the vast majority of photographic setups. In fact, 8 1/2 feet high just might be all the height you could FIT into a home studio (how high are your ceilings?). Of course, you can use paper rolls, canvas, muslins, fabrics, or whatever your creative little heart desires (well, whatever you can figure out how to hold on a three section extendable background bar, anyway :). All in all, this is a dynamite background system for a firecracker price! Bid now! Order several at this great price. |
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| We all know (er, well, we all should know) how a different background (also called a backdrop) can completely change the look, feel, tone, and atmosphere of a shot. That's why there are backgrounds! Hey, this isn't the forum for a photography lesson, but just as a "quckie" (no, not THAT kind of a quickie :) to give you an idea, look at the pictures below; both are the same girl. Only one has a blue background, and the other has a green backdrop. Look at her eyes. See? If you want to improve your pictures, you might consider different backgrounds. If you choose to try this, you'll need something to hold the backdrops: ergo, background stands and systems! | |||
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| Here's what
comes with this brand new background package: 1) Two Background stands (2 sections, 25mm, 22mm; expandable from 5.8' to 8.5') 2) One Background roll cross bar (3 sections, expandable from 3.5' to 9.5') BONUS: I'll include with this package two TRIPLE background/backdrop crossbar holders! This means that you can UPGRADE this great single background set to a Triple Background Support set simply by adding 2 additional crossbars! This set comes with one crossbar, but you can add additional crossbars at any time to upgrade whenever your needs require (each crossbar can hold one background/backdrop). However, this is a lightweight Economy Background Support Set, so if you're planning on adding additional crossbars, avoid heavy backgrounds like canvas; use lightweight muslins instead (or order the Deluxe Background Support System, which is a heavy-duty set that can support the heavier backdrops). |
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WHITE/BLACK
REFLECTION UMBRELLA: 44" The White/Black umbrella is made of the new P-Satin clothes-PU bonding with high denier Satin. Their Black cover can achieve almost 100% light reflection rate and provide soft almost shadowless light, which is suitable for indirect and diffusive lighting. A wonderful method of softening the light. Technique: Photographers use these umbrellas to diffuse and soften light; in portraits, for example, this soft lighting very effectively hides many of the lines and wrinkles on the faces of our victims (umm, our "subjects" :), making them look younger and more vital. It's also great for photographing highly reflective surfaces, such as jewelry, glass, and chrome (it avoids the bright reflections that mess up our pictures). But don't let our clients know our little secrets, just accept their appreciation (along with your quickly-escalating fees), and let them believe it was your phenomenal photographic skill that made them (or their products) look so damn good! Look, you're spending a lot of time and money acquiring the equipment, and learning the skills of the photographic arts; you're becoming a skilled professional; your work is valuable as well as beautiful. Don't price yourself out of the market, certainly, but don't sell yourself cheap, either. |
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Point of Information: BTW (btw means "by the way" for any "newbies" paying us a visit), a "Reflection" umbrella is one that reflects the strobe's light back onto the subject, and thereby softens and diffuses the light. This technique is often used in portraits, delicate items, and for photographing reflective surfaces, and performs many beneficial services for all us hard-working, and under-appreciated photographic artists. Keep it a secret from others, though, and let them think we get our beautiful images through some sort of secret and esoteric magic, passed down through the centuries, from master to disciple. It helps increase our value ;-) - and please don't send me any e-mail explaining that photography hasn't been around for centuries, I know that. Duh. |
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H70-
150mm 6" Umbrella Reflector Used alone for about 60º coverage, or with barn doors to control lighting spread, or with an umbrella to create soft and diffuse lighting. This custom reflector is designed with a special "slot" in it to allow for the use of an umbrella, without the need for a special umbrella holder accessory! A unique innovation! This is usually the reflector that comes with the Britek PS-300 Strobes, since they have an integral umbrella holder built in to the strobe's light stand connector. You get Three of these reflectors with this package. |
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H70MM Snoot The Snoot provides a 30º concentrated light source for spot lighting or dramatic accents. Often used to "spotlight" a product, or a specific area of a photograph; also used for hairlights in people pictures. One of the photographer's "must have" accessories (the Snoot also acts as a holder for the Medium Honeycomb, below). |
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Medium
Honeycomb This unit attaches to the end of the Snoot, above, and restricts the light beam to 15º as well as softening the light. Often used for hairlights and accent lights, as well as many other uses. Another one of the photographer's "must have" accessories. |
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Here's a great little accessory that all photographers always need more of: a panning light head holder with built-in clamp and umbrella holder! It's hard to wax philosophic about a photographic accessory, but anyone who's ever worked with lights knows that these little tools are absolutely indispensable. For example, even a super-duper, antique, $100,000.00 table lamp isn't going to do anyone much good without a light bulb that works. And this little baby works, and keeps on working. You'll need one of these for every standard e-27 Edison base strobe (or continuous light) you'll ever work with (the E-27 is the standard household light socket size, so you can use "regular" lights with it too, if need be). Plus, this little baby has an integral umbrella holder, which saves you from having to buy an additional umbrella adapter, whenever you might want to "bounce" the light off of (or through) an umbrella. ALSO the bulb holder is an integral part of an amazingly versatile clamp! With this little accessory, you can place your E-27 base strobes (like the AS-66 in this kit) anywhere your photographically demanding heart desires! Clamp them onto a light stand, or a chair, or a desk, or a ladder, or darn near anything else that may be handy! These little units will make your life so much easier (put that light anywhere you want!), that you'll be amazed how you ever got by without them before this! This great unit is used for your AS-66 Mini-Strobe, and consequently you won't need a separate light stand for the AS-66 Mini-Strobe, because this clamp holder will allow you to place the AS-66 anywhere you want! Hey, all well-designed photographic packages come with everything you'll need to fully use all the equipment included. Just one more reason why you're better off buying from another photographer (especially a handsome, brilliant, and wonderful one, too ;-). So ask yourself: Who da man? PhotoSource3 da man, of course! ;-) Specifications: |
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Why, you may ask, do we need
a 12 foot muslin background when we only have an 8 1/2 foot high
Background Support Set? Good question. The answer? Because, as
a photographer, I know that we often want to curve a few feet
of our background material onto the floor under our subjects.
This allows us to make full-length shots of a (standing or sitting)
subject, and have the background continue under their feet. Also,
it allows us to curve the background material along the floor
(also under our subjects) to eliminate the horizon line (e.g.,
the line where the wall or background meets the floor); it may
sound a bit esoteric to you now, but as soon as you start using
background support sets, and discover all the neat stuff we can
do with it, it'll become clear to you. Things like these are
one of the reasons why you're better off acquiring your photographic
equipment from a photographer, instead of from just someone
trying to "sell" you photographic equipment, because
a photographer knows why something is important (or NOT
important) for you to have, and how you can use it to
improve your photography. Of course, "you da boss,"
because it's your hard-earned money you're spending -
so you decide what to buy, and from whom to buy it (however,
since PhotoSource3 not only knows photography, is willing to
help you, and also has the best prices; it's really a
no-brainer:)! |
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 Technique: The most important "secret" of good photography is the thought the photographer
puts into a picture before s/he even considers what type of film
to use! The point here is that we have to train ourselves to
think before we shoot! What color is our subject? How
can we make that color (or shade) stand out? Look at the example
here,
and see how the simple choice of using a background that matches
our subject's (blue) eye color can improve our pictures. In the
lovely picture to your left, notice how the blue-violet shadows
to the right of the model's head accentuate her blue eyes. Notice,
too how half the face is in a light shadow, adding depth and
texture. We have to ask ourselves: What do we want to emphasize
in our picture? How will we direct our viewers' eye to our subject?
If it's an outdoors photograph, how will we separate our main
subject from any other distracting elements in our photograph?
At which angle should we shoot? Is it important to establish
place in this photograph (i.e., is it important for the viewer
to know where our subject is? Or do we want to hide the location)?
If we're shooting people, what is our victim's least appealing
feature (i.e., a large nose, a bald head, pot belly, lotsa wrinkles,
etc.:)? How can we hide or de-emphasize it? What's our subject's
most appealing feature (i.e., eyes, profile, smile, boobs - oops!
sorry, I couldn't resist:) ? How can we emphasize the attractive
aspects of our subjects? These are the questions photographers
have to ask, before we shoot. THINK before you shoot!
MAKE a photograph - don't "take" a snapshot! Learn
to "design" your picture before you pick up your camera!
Take a piece of paper and a pencil, and sketch out what you want
in the picture you're considering; this will be a great help
in the beginning, and after a few weeks or months of doing this,
you'll start to do it all in your head, and won't need the pencil
and paper any more. I promise you that a good photograph doesn't
require the genius of an Einstein - it just takes a little thought
and preparation (creativity and practice doesn't hurt either)!
You don't have to study photography for 20 years, just train
yourself to think before you shoot! Don't try to plan
out 100 subjects all at once; think about one or two, and then
use 10 rolls of film on just a few ideas. Shoot from different
angles; shoot from different heights; shoot with different lighting
angles; shoot with color film; shoot with black and white film;
think, then shoot! Pretty soon, you'll wake up one day and realize
that you've changed; you'll look at the world differently; you'll
"see" things most people never even notice; one day,
you'll realize that you've become something special; something
different, but different in a most amazing and wonderful way;
you will have become - a photographer!© 2001 Quickie Technique #5: Exposure - All meters built into all cameras are "reflection" meters; they read the light reflected by our subjects AND everything else in our viewfinder! This often causes incorrect readings, and pictures that turn out looking like doo-doo. Instead of letting our camera's meter read the exposure from our whole frame, set your built-in meter to its "spot" setting. Then, center the most Important part of your subject (i.e., the face of a person, the flower petals of a flower, the coat of a dog, etc.) in your meter's spot circle and take your reading; then, when our viewfinder's spot circle is filled with our subject and NOT with the surroundings, lock in exposure (e.g., press the shutter button half-way down), re-compose the shot, and then press the shutter button all the way down and make the exposure! I think you'll be pleased with the results! More "quickie techniques" information will be included in my other auction descriptions. Thank you for viewing this auction, and may you have the very best of luck! |
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--> The Reserve on this entire package is Less than $600.00! <-- |
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| Back to top of page ----What a great opportunity to own this marvelous pro portrait studio! Your low bid of only 599.00 could win you this entire kit for less than you'd pay for a single strobe from a competing manufacturer! But please try to bid a LOT more than this! I've got 37 starving children to support. ;-) ... well, maybe I'm exaggerating a little bit, but please do bid more, OK? Thanks. | |
| Thank you for viewing this auction, best of luck with your photography, and please accept my most sincere wishes for you and yours to enjoy a wonderful, prosperous, photographically creative, and joyful new millennium! | |
| Shipping & handling is only $58.90 for UPS ground delivery (in continental 48 USA States). Other shipping methods available (UPS 3 Day, Next Day Air or Fed Express, etc.), buyer chooses. Payments by credit cards, cashier's checks and money orders shipped immediately; personal/business checks are welcome, but will be held until check clears. Taxable for CA residents only. Thank you for taking the time to view this auction, may you have best of luck, and happy bidding!! Will I ship to Canada/Overseas? Yes, but please read this BEFORE bidding. ----[Q: How can you sell brand new equipment for such low prices? ] |
| BTW, if you should ever outgrow this strobe kit (unlikely, because photographers can always use all the lights and light stands we can get; I know many pros who use 6 or 7 or more strobes just for head shots!), but if you do, you can either trade it in on the new ones, or sell it (maybe even right here on eBay) - and you might even be able to sell it for as much as (or maybe even more than) you paid for it! So unlike that great computer we're all using right now (which will be almost worthless, for resale purposes, in 6 months or a year), this light and photographic equipment will retain a good portion (if not all) of its value if or when you're ready to move on. |
| Guaranteed! This brand new, top quality, kit equals or surpasses those with retail list prices far higher! Go ahead, check with your local photo store(s). Bid responsibly, but with confidence. These items are 100% guaranteed to be brand new, with manufacturer's warantee! You may return this package (in new and undamaged condition, of course) within 7 days of receipt for a full refund (excluding shipping), if it is not exactly as described above in every way. Trust me, you'll love it! For literally hundreds of more impartial and objective points of view, check my feedback; and see what every other customer has had to say about this kit (as well as every other item I've ever sold), and about my service, and my commitment to 100% customer satisfaction! Hey, us struggling photogs have to stick together, y'know (and all of us are always struggling - to make that elusive "perfect" photograph, huh?). Thanks again for viewing this auction; feel free to e-mail any questions to me. For answers to common questions, read my FAQ. |
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| As an eBay PowerSeller, a Billpoint PreferredSeller, and a PayPal "Verified" premier business seller, my customers are safer, happier, and better off all around! :-) If you're a PayPal user, you no longer have that darn $1-2,000.00 limit every 6 months on your purchases when you order from me (unlimited credit)! If you're a Billpoint user (your credit is unlimited again), you will NOT have that annoying $500.00 per auction limit on your purchases when you buy from me, and even if you're new to Billpoint, there's NO waiting or verification delays whatsoever, so your order can be shipped immediately (and you can use Billpoint to pay for any purchase from me - unlike the limits you have with ordinary sellers)! You're ALWAYS better off buying from PhotoSource3! Plus, your purchase is doubly guaranteed against fraud! Read more about your safeguards... See all your payment and shipping options here. | |
| NOTE: You're welcome to pay with PayPal, Billpoint, or BidPay by credit card or electronic check. Billpoint and BidPay will allow folks from countries other than the USA to use credit cards, too. For those not technologically inclined, snail mail (i.e. the post office) will also work just fine. See all your payment and shipping options here. I hope this helps provide enough alternatives for you (if not, feel free to send in your suggestions; e-mail me here). One of the differences between me and the big guys, is the fact that I'm always willing to do whatever I possibly can to help out my customers in whatever ways are needed. Here's my philosophy on "Customer Service." Will I ship to Canada and other countries? Sure I will! But read this before placing an out-of-the-USA bid. Basically, if you're willing to pay the increased shipping charges, then I'll probably be happy to ship to you. | |
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 Check out my other auctions! |
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From whom should you buy your photographic equipment? Hey, it's your hard-earned money, so you should buy from anybody you darn well like! However, one of the advantages of buying from another photographer is that, unlike "salesmen," who just want to "sell" things to you, a photographer will know what you need, and what you don't need; a photographer will know why you'll need something, and why you won't need something; a photographer will have actually used the equipment being sold, and will be able to offer advice based on real-life experience. Of course, the facts that photographers (like us) are usually much better-looking, a lot smarter, definitely kinder, and unquestionably much more creative than other folks, doesn't hurt either, does it? ;-) Unlike the others who try to cover up their own ignorance with vague warnings cautioning you against buying from anyone else (but them, that is:), I won't stoop to such reprehensible behavior; I guess I'm just not greedy enough to do such things. In addition, I trust you to be smart enough to make up your very own mind, without my self-serving advice, telling you who you should and shouldn't patronize. Sure, I'm in business to sell photographic equipment, but I'd rather lose a few sales than insult my customers' intelligence with admonitions like: "Buy from me! Don't buy from the other guy!" So go ahead and check out what's available, compare prices, quality, and customer service philosophies; see who you think will provide more help and support. Then, check out the feedback profiles; go look to see what the other "photographic experts" were selling a few months ago (that'll be a revelation:). Next visit the web sites, of your potential suppliers (especially those who claim to be photographers with "100 years experience," and see how much they really know about photography). Then, in addition to the usual, logical, informed, procedures for making your purchasing decisions, check with the old standby that's almost always right, your gut feelings. Check things out; make up your own mind. Then, without doubt, you'll probably come to the right conclusion. [However, - just in the interest of saving you time and trouble ;-) the conclusion you'll surely come to is that "PhotoSource3" on eBay (who is also the beloved founder and talented creator of MyPhotoHome and Photographer's SupplyStation) is "Da Man" from whom to buy your photographic goodies! =:-) ] Thank you for being kind enough to view this auction, may you have the best of luck, and don't forget, as always, no matter who you choose to honor with your photographic purchases, take (or better yet, "make") lots of great pictures (and I hope you realize that my humor is meant to be fun, and is intended with good will)! And remember, you can't get good - unless you get started. |
| Questions, questions, questions.... |
| How can you sell brand new photographic equipment for such low prices? What shipping and payment options do you offer? How do I know I can trust you with my hard-earned money? What's your policy on customer service? Will these pro strobes work with my camera? Will they work with my digital camera? What if my camera is old? How do I contact you? If I live in Southern California; can I pick up the equipment myself? Will you offer more photographic equipment (than you have now)? Are your products guaranteed or warranted? What if I want certain equipment, but you don't have an auction with the equipment I want? Do you accept Lay-Away payment plans? Will you ship to Canada or Europe or Asia? What if I have some technical questions? Hey! Somebody else e-mailed me after I bid on your auction(s) and offered me a "deal" on cheaper equipment... and many more of your questions answered - just click below! |
| Answers, answers, answers.... |
| NEW! See ALL my eBay auctions; all items, kits, and packages! Here's a special page, where you can find almost every one of my auction packages, even those which are NOT currently running on eBay, and many NEW auctions that will be coming in the days and weeks ahead! Be among the cognoscenti, Check it out now! |
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Shop with confidence! This PowerSeller proudly provides a plethora of perfect premium photographic products - PLUS - pure, powerful, and peerless customer service! [Ain't that great alliteration? Huh? Well, ain't it?] |
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All ! |
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Here's what you get: 1) One Britek HS-500 Professional Strobe
180WS! <- New! (Show Me) |
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| This is truly a wonderful professional portrait setup! With Three powerful main master strobes (a powerful 180WS strobe plus 2 great 150WS units) to light your victims (um, your "subjects" that is:) and your background (adding the depth and separation characteristic of professional images) in the most creative manner, a great Mini-Strobe for highlights or hairlights, a huge 44" umbrella to soften the light and hide those facial lines, sags, and wrinkles (making your subjects look younger and more vital), and in addition, a background support set to hold your backgrounds (also called backdrops), plus a great raw Muslin background/backdrop to start you out, you'll have everything you'll need to start getting the fantastic pictures that will flatter and amaze your clients (or your kids, parents, friends, or relatives)! |
| Wondering what the reserve price is? I never hide anything from my (beloved) bidders! Just look for "Elvis" and you'll see the reserve price minimum clearly listed, just above the "Elvis has left the building..." line. It's the same with all my reserve auctions; the reserve prices are always clearly listed for all to see. Thank you for viewing this auction, good luck, and please accept my most sincere wishes for a wonderful, prosperous, and joyful Year! And don't forget to make some great photographs in 2001. |
| NEW! See ALL my eBay auctions; all items, kits, and packages! Here's a special page, where you can find almost every one of my auction packages, even those which are NOT currently running on eBay, and many NEW auctions that will be coming in the days and weeks ahead! Be among the cognoscenti, Check it out now! <- Clicking here will open up a new window, retaining this page behind it. |
© 2001 Rmorgan/Wryter/Adam Publishing
Co. All Wrights Wreserved Worldwide! So there! ;-)
We can
see the difference between the Modeling Light Bulb and the Flash
Tube (the circular tube surrounding the modeling bulb) in this
close-up shot of the HS-500's business end (with the reflector
removed, of course).
